Marcel

You should use thread lock for the screws. The grease is very important if you want to avoid extrem wear at the outdrives of your spool.

Tbevofreak

Can someone tell me how much a bone-stock Pro4 weighs? With no electronics and no body, just the chassis

It would be VERY kind of you if you could tell me!

ThANKS IN ADVANCE!!

diha

iTrader: (3)

Hi,

Does anyone have a good set up for aspalt using 23T motors?
Please share with me.....

Thanks.

tc3 racer sc

i had my pro4 a while and still learning to do the correct bleeding to get the shock right there a big different from associated shock and hpi to bleed right when i bleed the hpi shock no rebound or very little some one let me know thxs

tc3 racer sc

hey i found the problem to my diff i strip the gear on my spool/and other gear so it was not the rear diff

tc3 racer sc

u can find goodsetup on hpi japan for 23 t

diha

iTrader: (3)

HI,
thanks for your info.
However I could not find the setup.
Wondering if U could help to attached the link or the file.
Thanks in advance.

GCT69

iTrader: (10)

hello , I know you guys can help me with this one I'm kinda new when it comes to pro 4 and I'm currently on a bind right now, whenever I would hit the thrttle to full speed and just let it stay there for about a second or two (top speed) and then immediately let off ( no breaks applied) the car would turn to the right, I'm running a 27 t motor and cs27 , silver springs on the rear and gold upfront. If you guys would need more info I will try and give some more. Please help.

chr15tophe

possible thing to check :- tweak in the chassis

The best way ive found is to take off body posts front and rear, stick a set of cells in and put the battery strap on, flip the car over so it sits on the shock towers, if you can rock the car on the shock towers you have a bit of tweak somewhere, try re tightening the top deck and the diff cases, ive also found the diff cases do not mount flush so you need to level them up, by filing them down.

Its worth getting the upgraded top deck with the holes drilled out to prevent tweak during the race, look on hpi site for info.

Also check nothings binding ie anti roll bars, equal droop either side, toe and camber for good measure... and you will have a car that goes straight..

GCT69

iTrader: (10)

even if I'm running a oneway this should not happen right? (turning right when you let of the throttle)?will try what you suggested and hopefully fix the tweak.

Thraex

If you have a tweaked chassis the car will also pull to the other side (in your case the left side) when you are accelerating. It could also be somewhere in the drivetrain, maybe the diffs aren't working properly so it pulls to one side.
So also check if something's binding and be sure everything runs smooth and how it should be.

GCT69

iTrader: (10)

the car is not turning left whenever I would hit the throttle,will ckl f there is ay binding parts, I did remove my mounting post and turn it upside down and try to rock it to see if theres any movement, none at all.


and can anybody tell me what does the attachment do? will it work for the front and back?

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

It gives you more mounting positions for the inner part of the camber rod. I THINK it works for front and back, but don't quote me.
-Josh

Formula1fan

I am having this same problem. Except my car wants to spin out when I make left turns. I have to baby the car through the left turns and it is even worse in the high speed chicane at my local track. I have made the adjustments to my upper deck, changed all rear hinge pins in the rear, checked the tweak after every run and messed around with droop. I bout this car as a back up to my FK05 and would switch back, but this has got personnel! I also have rebuilt the diffs and thread locked the diff adjustment screws. What am I missing?

tc3 racer sc

i donjt know the link on hpi japan but when u go to the site just click under pro4 on the main page and guess from there i dont understand the language