Hpi Pro 4
Tech Adept
You need the updated gears V1.1, HPI will send them to you for free
If you already have them then its your shimming thats not right like Exe stated above
The Pro 4 doesn t have to much prob with gears stripping so check
If you already have them then its your shimming thats not right like Exe stated above
The Pro 4 doesn t have to much prob with gears stripping so check
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
The pro4 diff design is far more efficient than any other shaft brands available. Other brands have more gear noise and fragile issues as far as stripping is concerned.
Well I was stripping a v1.1 gear on the front oneway every raceday, changed to a ball diff and they break no more
Re: Bevel gears
Originally posted by ElectricConvert
Hi guys.
I'm new to the Pro4 and I was wondering if someone could give me a quick run through tips and tricks for the diffs.
I've gone through 4 sets of gears in one race day (busted front and back) and it is frustrating to say the least.
I've shimmed it up at the expense of efficiency and it lasted through the finals but is there something I could do to minimise this from occuring?
It seems that the gears are very susceptible to bumps and nudges when racing.
I'm running a brushless setup equivalent to 8 turns brushed and have already installed a front one-way gear brace.
Hi guys.
I'm new to the Pro4 and I was wondering if someone could give me a quick run through tips and tricks for the diffs.
I've gone through 4 sets of gears in one race day (busted front and back) and it is frustrating to say the least.
I've shimmed it up at the expense of efficiency and it lasted through the finals but is there something I could do to minimise this from occuring?
It seems that the gears are very susceptible to bumps and nudges when racing.
I'm running a brushless setup equivalent to 8 turns brushed and have already installed a front one-way gear brace.
1. If you are hitting solid things, boards, concrete, with any sort of decently powerful motor (like your brushless) with a front oneway installed and you are still on power you will break a gear no matter what the shimming is or whether you have the 1.1 gears and plate. Even stock motors can easily damage the gear, but is much less likely too. Jumping into the air and landing on power also will break gears. The same is true of most shaft cars with a oneway.
2. If you change to a front diff the chances of breaking a diff is almost 0. I have never broken a diff with this setup.
3. Shimming it up ultra tight will help. Stock for the front is .3 on the short side and .2 on the long side. I use .6 on the short side and with the oneway break far fewer gears, however I still can chip them. My track has boards on the outside of fast corners and uses the road rail system. The boards will eat gears if you hit them under power, and the road rails launch you and if you land on power also you can break the gears. At .6mm I chipped two teeth the other week and crashed a whole bunch.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
install a wide front bumper to decrease the chances of gear strippage.
Re: Re: Bevel gears
Originally posted by AMGRacer
I asked the same question here and did not get much concrete information so I did some testing for myself. Here is what I found:
1. If you are hitting solid things, boards, concrete, with any sort of decently powerful motor (like your brushless) with a front oneway installed and you are still on power you will break a gear no matter what the shimming is or whether you have the 1.1 gears and plate. Even stock motors can easily damage the gear, but is much less likely too. Jumping into the air and landing on power also will break gears. The same is true of most shaft cars with a oneway.
2. If you change to a front diff the chances of breaking a diff is almost 0. I have never broken a diff with this setup.
3. Shimming it up ultra tight will help. Stock for the front is .3 on the short side and .2 on the long side. I use .6 on the short side and with the oneway break far fewer gears, however I still can chip them. My track has boards on the outside of fast corners and uses the road rail system. The boards will eat gears if you hit them under power, and the road rails launch you and if you land on power also you can break the gears. At .6mm I chipped two teeth the other week and crashed a whole bunch.
I asked the same question here and did not get much concrete information so I did some testing for myself. Here is what I found:
1. If you are hitting solid things, boards, concrete, with any sort of decently powerful motor (like your brushless) with a front oneway installed and you are still on power you will break a gear no matter what the shimming is or whether you have the 1.1 gears and plate. Even stock motors can easily damage the gear, but is much less likely too. Jumping into the air and landing on power also will break gears. The same is true of most shaft cars with a oneway.
2. If you change to a front diff the chances of breaking a diff is almost 0. I have never broken a diff with this setup.
3. Shimming it up ultra tight will help. Stock for the front is .3 on the short side and .2 on the long side. I use .6 on the short side and with the oneway break far fewer gears, however I still can chip them. My track has boards on the outside of fast corners and uses the road rail system. The boards will eat gears if you hit them under power, and the road rails launch you and if you land on power also you can break the gears. At .6mm I chipped two teeth the other week and crashed a whole bunch.
Thanks for the reply AMG. I've shimmed mine with .4 on one side and .1 on the other such that the gear is meshed tighter. I've also added extra shims on the input shafts from behind the pin that the small bevel gear latches on to to remove play.
Do you think removing the o-rings on the main shaft would reduce the movement in the diffs when the car flexes during a crash or hitting the chicanes when you keep things tight defending the line?
How do you set your front diff (if not running one way)? Looser than rear or tighter?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by Geetoo
The pro4 diff design is far more efficient than any other shaft brands available. Other brands have more gear noise and fragile issues as far as stripping is concerned.
The pro4 diff design is far more efficient than any other shaft brands available. Other brands have more gear noise and fragile issues as far as stripping is concerned.
Originally posted by rc-zombies
install a wide front bumper to decrease the chances of gear strippage.
install a wide front bumper to decrease the chances of gear strippage.
BTW, I've heard of some conversion stuff involving TC3 parts. What does this entail?
Tech Regular
Gear Ratio need advice
i've just bought a Team Atlas Handwind Excel-G 8 x 2 mod motor and i'm thinking of putting it on my pro4 and have some fun with it. So I'm just wondering what sort of gear ratio or rollout shuold i use?
I've bought a pinion gear which would give me about 9.0:1 gear ratio but the pinion was too small so it didn't fit (i'm using 67T spur) so i'll need a bigger pinion and wonder what's the largest i can go for and still safe?it's just for fun so i don't need the best performance but i want to know what sort of rollout is "safe" if i want to run it on my pro4. i will probably be usnig foam tyres and it's a small/medium size outdoor track.
I know getting a bigger spur can fix this problem easily but as i'm racing in the 540 silver can class i'll need the 67T spur and i don't want to change my spur gear all the time.
so anyone can give me some suggestions?
I've bought a pinion gear which would give me about 9.0:1 gear ratio but the pinion was too small so it didn't fit (i'm using 67T spur) so i'll need a bigger pinion and wonder what's the largest i can go for and still safe?it's just for fun so i don't need the best performance but i want to know what sort of rollout is "safe" if i want to run it on my pro4. i will probably be usnig foam tyres and it's a small/medium size outdoor track.
I know getting a bigger spur can fix this problem easily but as i'm racing in the 540 silver can class i'll need the 67T spur and i don't want to change my spur gear all the time.
so anyone can give me some suggestions?
the pro4 doesn't fit 3700 does it?
No not directly, you have to file some graphite away at the battery slots to make them fit.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by ElectricConvert
What's this wide front bumper? Who makes it and where can I buy them?
BTW, I've heard of some conversion stuff involving TC3 parts. What does this entail?
What's this wide front bumper? Who makes it and where can I buy them?
BTW, I've heard of some conversion stuff involving TC3 parts. What does this entail?
Originally posted by axel
the pro4 doesn't fit 3700 does it?
the pro4 doesn't fit 3700 does it?
Tech Adept
The pro4 diff design is far more efficient than any other shaft brands available. Other brands have more gear noise and fragile issues as far as stripping is concerned.
I have a SDW and its more quiet than my TC4, the hollow CF shaft and the light aluminium input shaft makes it also a very efficient drivetrain
also a part from the TB evo 3 that had big issue with stripping gears I dont know wich fragile cars you talking about..
i use ib3800's in my car with the 2mm chassis.they fit without a problem