Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree86Likes

Hpi Pro 4

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-16-2005, 08:26 AM
  #11281  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Behind the screen
Posts: 226
Default

You need the updated gears V1.1, HPI will send them to you for free

If you already have them then its your shimming thats not right like Exe stated above

The Pro 4 doesn t have to much prob with gears stripping so check
Tbevofreak is offline  
Old 05-16-2005, 12:29 PM
  #11282  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Geetoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: HPI/HOTBODIES
Posts: 1,872
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

The pro4 diff design is far more efficient than any other shaft brands available. Other brands have more gear noise and fragile issues as far as stripping is concerned.
Geetoo is offline  
Old 05-16-2005, 12:41 PM
  #11283  
Tech Regular
 
loopedeloop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Whangarei Newzealand
Posts: 490
Default

Well I was stripping a v1.1 gear on the front oneway every raceday, changed to a ball diff and they break no more
loopedeloop is offline  
Old 05-16-2005, 03:24 PM
  #11284  
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default Re: Bevel gears

Originally posted by ElectricConvert
Hi guys.

I'm new to the Pro4 and I was wondering if someone could give me a quick run through tips and tricks for the diffs.

I've gone through 4 sets of gears in one race day (busted front and back) and it is frustrating to say the least.

I've shimmed it up at the expense of efficiency and it lasted through the finals but is there something I could do to minimise this from occuring?

It seems that the gears are very susceptible to bumps and nudges when racing.

I'm running a brushless setup equivalent to 8 turns brushed and have already installed a front one-way gear brace.
I asked the same question here and did not get much concrete information so I did some testing for myself. Here is what I found:

1. If you are hitting solid things, boards, concrete, with any sort of decently powerful motor (like your brushless) with a front oneway installed and you are still on power you will break a gear no matter what the shimming is or whether you have the 1.1 gears and plate. Even stock motors can easily damage the gear, but is much less likely too. Jumping into the air and landing on power also will break gears. The same is true of most shaft cars with a oneway.

2. If you change to a front diff the chances of breaking a diff is almost 0. I have never broken a diff with this setup.

3. Shimming it up ultra tight will help. Stock for the front is .3 on the short side and .2 on the long side. I use .6 on the short side and with the oneway break far fewer gears, however I still can chip them. My track has boards on the outside of fast corners and uses the road rail system. The boards will eat gears if you hit them under power, and the road rails launch you and if you land on power also you can break the gears. At .6mm I chipped two teeth the other week and crashed a whole bunch.
AMGRacer is offline  
Old 05-16-2005, 03:35 PM
  #11285  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
 
rc-zombies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: NorCal. Napa area
Posts: 7,233
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

install a wide front bumper to decrease the chances of gear strippage.
rc-zombies is offline  
Old 05-16-2005, 03:43 PM
  #11286  
Tech Adept
 
ElectricConvert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 127
Default Re: Re: Bevel gears

Originally posted by AMGRacer
I asked the same question here and did not get much concrete information so I did some testing for myself. Here is what I found:

1. If you are hitting solid things, boards, concrete, with any sort of decently powerful motor (like your brushless) with a front oneway installed and you are still on power you will break a gear no matter what the shimming is or whether you have the 1.1 gears and plate. Even stock motors can easily damage the gear, but is much less likely too. Jumping into the air and landing on power also will break gears. The same is true of most shaft cars with a oneway.

2. If you change to a front diff the chances of breaking a diff is almost 0. I have never broken a diff with this setup.

3. Shimming it up ultra tight will help. Stock for the front is .3 on the short side and .2 on the long side. I use .6 on the short side and with the oneway break far fewer gears, however I still can chip them. My track has boards on the outside of fast corners and uses the road rail system. The boards will eat gears if you hit them under power, and the road rails launch you and if you land on power also you can break the gears. At .6mm I chipped two teeth the other week and crashed a whole bunch.

Thanks for the reply AMG. I've shimmed mine with .4 on one side and .1 on the other such that the gear is meshed tighter. I've also added extra shims on the input shafts from behind the pin that the small bevel gear latches on to to remove play.

Do you think removing the o-rings on the main shaft would reduce the movement in the diffs when the car flexes during a crash or hitting the chicanes when you keep things tight defending the line?

How do you set your front diff (if not running one way)? Looser than rear or tighter?
ElectricConvert is offline  
Old 05-16-2005, 03:44 PM
  #11287  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,819
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Post

Originally posted by Geetoo
The pro4 diff design is far more efficient than any other shaft brands available. Other brands have more gear noise and fragile issues as far as stripping is concerned.
The Yokomo SD doesn't -JB
JayBee is offline  
Old 05-16-2005, 05:59 PM
  #11288  
Tech Adept
 
ElectricConvert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 127
Default

Originally posted by rc-zombies
install a wide front bumper to decrease the chances of gear strippage.
What's this wide front bumper? Who makes it and where can I buy them?

BTW, I've heard of some conversion stuff involving TC3 parts. What does this entail?
ElectricConvert is offline  
Old 05-16-2005, 07:25 PM
  #11289  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 328
Default Gear Ratio need advice

i've just bought a Team Atlas Handwind Excel-G 8 x 2 mod motor and i'm thinking of putting it on my pro4 and have some fun with it. So I'm just wondering what sort of gear ratio or rollout shuold i use?

I've bought a pinion gear which would give me about 9.0:1 gear ratio but the pinion was too small so it didn't fit (i'm using 67T spur) so i'll need a bigger pinion and wonder what's the largest i can go for and still safe?it's just for fun so i don't need the best performance but i want to know what sort of rollout is "safe" if i want to run it on my pro4. i will probably be usnig foam tyres and it's a small/medium size outdoor track.


I know getting a bigger spur can fix this problem easily but as i'm racing in the 540 silver can class i'll need the 67T spur and i don't want to change my spur gear all the time.

so anyone can give me some suggestions?
yellow15 is offline  
Old 05-16-2005, 09:55 PM
  #11290  
Tech Master
 
axel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NorCal
Posts: 1,226
Default

the pro4 doesn't fit 3700 does it?
axel is offline  
Old 05-16-2005, 10:02 PM
  #11291  
Tech Addict
 
Thraex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 527
Default

No not directly, you have to file some graphite away at the battery slots to make them fit.
Thraex is offline  
Old 05-16-2005, 10:39 PM
  #11292  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
 
rc-zombies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: NorCal. Napa area
Posts: 7,233
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally posted by ElectricConvert
What's this wide front bumper? Who makes it and where can I buy them?

BTW, I've heard of some conversion stuff involving TC3 parts. What does this entail?
you can use the BRP TC3 wide front bumper. or if you have some Kydex..you can make your own.
rc-zombies is offline  
Old 05-17-2005, 08:26 AM
  #11293  
Tech Addict
 
Skill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Doncaster, England
Posts: 537
Default

Originally posted by axel
the pro4 doesn't fit 3700 does it?
I have the Team PRP chassis kit and I an running a pack of GP3700s with no extra material from the chassis taken away, although I think they may sit just slightly higher than my 3300s, there is no problem with running them. I'm not sure if this is the same for the stock Pro 4 chassis as I only run the PRP one now.
Skill is offline  
Old 05-17-2005, 09:23 AM
  #11294  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Behind the screen
Posts: 226
Default

The pro4 diff design is far more efficient than any other shaft brands available. Other brands have more gear noise and fragile issues as far as stripping is concerned.
You seem to be so sure about that, have you ever tried or owned another shaft car?

I have a SDW and its more quiet than my TC4, the hollow CF shaft and the light aluminium input shaft makes it also a very efficient drivetrain

also a part from the TB evo 3 that had big issue with stripping gears I dont know wich fragile cars you talking about..
Tbevofreak is offline  
Old 05-17-2005, 02:08 PM
  #11295  
Tech Regular
 
moot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: nsw
Posts: 352
Default

i use ib3800's in my car with the 2mm chassis.they fit without a problem
moot is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.