86LikesHpi Pro 4
05-09-2005, 10:11 PM
Originally posted by axel
When do people use the pro4 weights? what does it do? more downforce?
When do people use the pro4 weights? what does it do? more downforce?
05-10-2005, 06:07 AM
HEAVY BALL ENDS
Can someone tell me the part # for the Hpi heavy ball ends.
Thanks
Thanks
05-10-2005, 08:26 AM
Mach10_shooter: A301 for the steering links and A302 for the upper links. (They both come 8 pcs to a set)
JayBee:
Re: The center stiffener post is purely optional.
Re: the gear brace, if you purchased your kit in the USA and you have the older version with no brace included, give US customer service a call.
Re: The gear shimming… for the front one-way start with 0.3mm on the gear side and 0.2mm on the longer side. The front input shaft requires no shims. For the rear, the input shaft should be per the manual. The diff should get 0.2mm on the gear side and 0.3mm on the longer side. Note, if you experience any breakage of the front gears, add more shims to reduce the gear backlash. No backlash is okay and will yield more durability (with a slight efficiency cost).
Re: your car pictures, it looks as though your battery strap is a bit loose. See the attached .jpg for possible cause. The manual is incorrect for step 41.
Re: Complete spring set is HPI Part # 75175 (7 pairs), you’ll need 2 if you want 4 of each spring.
dontfeelcold: A spool is included with USA 2005 spec (I believe will be called Hara Edition)
Pro4: The USA spec kits use MIP CVD’s. The Asian market (+Austrailia) kits use universals.
cpatel529: Any gear shims needed come with the kit as standard parts.
rc-zombies: The new shocks should be about 56.5 center to center. Set longer if running lots of droop.
JayBee:
Re: The center stiffener post is purely optional.
Re: the gear brace, if you purchased your kit in the USA and you have the older version with no brace included, give US customer service a call.
Re: The gear shimming… for the front one-way start with 0.3mm on the gear side and 0.2mm on the longer side. The front input shaft requires no shims. For the rear, the input shaft should be per the manual. The diff should get 0.2mm on the gear side and 0.3mm on the longer side. Note, if you experience any breakage of the front gears, add more shims to reduce the gear backlash. No backlash is okay and will yield more durability (with a slight efficiency cost).
Re: your car pictures, it looks as though your battery strap is a bit loose. See the attached .jpg for possible cause. The manual is incorrect for step 41.
Re: Complete spring set is HPI Part # 75175 (7 pairs), you’ll need 2 if you want 4 of each spring.
dontfeelcold: A spool is included with USA 2005 spec (I believe will be called Hara Edition)
Pro4: The USA spec kits use MIP CVD’s. The Asian market (+Austrailia) kits use universals.
cpatel529: Any gear shims needed come with the kit as standard parts.
rc-zombies: The new shocks should be about 56.5 center to center. Set longer if running lots of droop.
05-10-2005, 08:37 AM
Erik...
what's ETA on the 05 US kits?
what's ETA on the 05 US kits?
05-10-2005, 08:59 AM
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Erik...
what's ETA on the 05 US kits?
Erik...
what's ETA on the 05 US kits?
05-10-2005, 09:03 AM
Originally posted by TFR
Ramon, you got any new pictures of your 2005 spec Pro 4?
Ramon, you got any new pictures of your 2005 spec Pro 4?
05-10-2005, 10:25 AM
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Erik...
what's ETA on the 05 US kits?
Erik...
what's ETA on the 05 US kits?
05-10-2005, 10:32 AM
How should the 05 version be geared?
05-10-2005, 10:43 AM
when changing the roll centre on the car, is it necessary to change the height of the camber links as well?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
05-10-2005, 10:58 AM
Re: Rubber tires on carpet
Originally posted by JohnB
Front:
#2 pistons w/ 70 wt. oil, Assoc. Copper spring
#3 mount on tower and #1 on a-arm
2* caster and -2* camber
Camber link outside hole with 4mm spacer
1.5* toe block with .8 mm spacer (#4 washer) and wheels set at 0* toe.
5mm ride height and droop set to 1mm over ride height.
Rear:
#2 pistons w/ 50 wt. oil, Assoc. Red spring
#3 mount on tower and #2 on arm.
-2* camber
Camber inside on inner mount and hub. with 3mm spacer.
2.5* toe block with .8mm spacer
5mm ride height and droop set to 2mm over ride height.
take care
john
Front:
#2 pistons w/ 70 wt. oil, Assoc. Copper spring
#3 mount on tower and #1 on a-arm
2* caster and -2* camber
Camber link outside hole with 4mm spacer
1.5* toe block with .8 mm spacer (#4 washer) and wheels set at 0* toe.
5mm ride height and droop set to 1mm over ride height.
Rear:
#2 pistons w/ 50 wt. oil, Assoc. Red spring
#3 mount on tower and #2 on arm.
-2* camber
Camber inside on inner mount and hub. with 3mm spacer.
2.5* toe block with .8mm spacer
5mm ride height and droop set to 2mm over ride height.
take care
john
take care
john
05-10-2005, 11:29 AM
Evicerator: Feel free to gear taller by 1 tooth. If in doubt, don't hesitate to consult your manual
racer: When you lower the inner camber link, you will raise the static roll center. When you lower the suspension pivot block, you will lower the static roll center. In transition it is a much different picture. Changing one or the other should have a bigger feel difference than doing both at once.
racer: When you lower the inner camber link, you will raise the static roll center. When you lower the suspension pivot block, you will lower the static roll center. In transition it is a much different picture. Changing one or the other should have a bigger feel difference than doing both at once.
05-10-2005, 02:45 PM
racer: When you lower the inner camber link, you will raise the static roll center. When you lower the suspension pivot block, you will lower the static roll center. In transition it is a much different picture. Changing one or the other should have a bigger feel difference than doing both at once.
since i have changed over to a 3mm lower chassis. will the setting be altered?
i would like to keep the stock settings. how would i achieve this?
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by racer; 05-10-2005 at 03:12 PM.
05-10-2005, 03:42 PM
racer: For a 3mm chassis I would start close to this setup(Andy Moore, Cleveland '05) for the pivot block and camber ball heights.
05-10-2005, 03:43 PM
Erik..
do you have an estimated price on the new 05 Spec.
do you have an estimated price on the new 05 Spec.
05-10-2005, 03:43 PM
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
racer: For a 3mm chassis I would start close to this setup(Andy Moore, Cleveland '05) for the pivot block and camber ball heights.
racer: For a 3mm chassis I would start close to this setup(Andy Moore, Cleveland '05) for the pivot block and camber ball heights.