86LikesHpi Pro 4
12-16-2004, 03:27 PM
#9256
Originally posted by robk
Here's another question for Erik S., or maybe Thad:
i saw his car at Cleveland, and it did look smooth, effortless to drive and fast. I'm just trying to get at what the thought behind this is, so i can add it into my thinking when I'm at the track.
Thanks
Here's another question for Erik S., or maybe Thad:
i saw his car at Cleveland, and it did look smooth, effortless to drive and fast. I'm just trying to get at what the thought behind this is, so i can add it into my thinking when I'm at the track.
Thanks
Like I said before the roll center and shock up limiters was the biggest change from my previous setup. It makes a huge difference.
And yes, the car was SOOOOOOOO easy to drive. It should be illigal
take care
john
12-16-2004, 03:29 PM
#9257
Tech Champion
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Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
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For the guys running Andy's set up from Cleveland. What number piston are you using in the front and rear?
12-16-2004, 05:58 PM
#9259
Re: New to the Pro4
Originally posted by g4t2
Hi guys, after a while of running a TRF415, I've decided to try a pro 4. should be ordering it in the next couple of days, but have a few Q's I hope you can help me with. Firstly, I'm ordering the "1.1" kit, what does this mean? I'm also ordering a front diff set, but what other parts are worthwhile buying? I will be running it on carpet with rubber tyres. I'm on a bit of a budget and therefore am not too bothered about 'bling' purple buts, just stuff which actually make a difference to performance. thanks in advance to any help.
Hi guys, after a while of running a TRF415, I've decided to try a pro 4. should be ordering it in the next couple of days, but have a few Q's I hope you can help me with. Firstly, I'm ordering the "1.1" kit, what does this mean? I'm also ordering a front diff set, but what other parts are worthwhile buying? I will be running it on carpet with rubber tyres. I'm on a bit of a budget and therefore am not too bothered about 'bling' purple buts, just stuff which actually make a difference to performance. thanks in advance to any help.
12-16-2004, 06:51 PM
#9260
Tech Fanatic
Re: Re: New to the Pro4
Originally posted by Pro4Capece
For carpet the best hopups are the 3mm chassis, BRP TC3 front bumper, ream out the gear box holes(see previous pages) for tweak free chassis. I can't think of anything esle that is reasonably priced.
For carpet the best hopups are the 3mm chassis, BRP TC3 front bumper, ream out the gear box holes(see previous pages) for tweak free chassis. I can't think of anything esle that is reasonably priced.
12-16-2004, 06:55 PM
#9261
scroll back about 10 pages. there are diagrams of what to do. basically, you need to do is ream out the holes of the topdeck to the gearbox where the longer screws are. Then replace them with button head screws that don't make contact w/ the upper deck.
do a search for upper deck mod
do a search for upper deck mod
12-16-2004, 06:56 PM
#9262
here's my upper deck
12-16-2004, 06:58 PM
#9263
delete
12-16-2004, 09:34 PM
#9264
Tech Regular
when these lads refer to teflon washers on up travel limiting..
are they referring to the same teflon washers as used in shock construction (not literally instead of puttin them in the shock .. but as well as )??
are they referring to the same teflon washers as used in shock construction (not literally instead of puttin them in the shock .. but as well as )??
12-17-2004, 06:15 AM
#9265
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by Pro4Capece
scroll back about 10 pages. there are diagrams of what to do. basically, you need to do is ream out the holes of the topdeck to the gearbox where the longer screws are. Then replace them with button head screws that don't make contact w/ the upper deck.
do a search for upper deck mod
scroll back about 10 pages. there are diagrams of what to do. basically, you need to do is ream out the holes of the topdeck to the gearbox where the longer screws are. Then replace them with button head screws that don't make contact w/ the upper deck.
do a search for upper deck mod
12-17-2004, 08:04 AM
#9266
Tech Master
Carbon_Fibre3,
Yes, they are the same washers as what guides the shock shafts. You can buy them in a package with the snap rings. Dont forget to install the o-ring on top of the washers as well to cushion the bottom of the shock if you clip a dot or something like that.
Yes, they are the same washers as what guides the shock shafts. You can buy them in a package with the snap rings. Dont forget to install the o-ring on top of the washers as well to cushion the bottom of the shock if you clip a dot or something like that.
12-17-2004, 08:09 AM
#9267
With the 3mm chassis and upper deck I see no need to ream out the holes on the upper deck to eliminate tweak. I've been running my PRP chassis kit for quite a while not and I've not had it tweak at all, the stock chassis and top deck however did tweak sometimes.
12-17-2004, 02:25 PM
#9268
Originally posted by Kevin K
For the guys running Andy's set up from Cleveland. What number piston are you using in the front and rear?
For the guys running Andy's set up from Cleveland. What number piston are you using in the front and rear?
The setup up sheet says 3 hole piston in front but that's a .8mm I don't think I'd run 70 wt. oil with the 3 hole anyway. I tried 60wt. oil with the 3 hole and it was really stiff. Our track is a little to bumpy for it anyways, Cleveland was probably a lot smoother.
take care
john
12-17-2004, 03:14 PM
#9270
Tech Champion
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Thanks JohnB.....I know that the pistons that he showed on the set up sheet were drilled but I wanted to know what normal pistons worked. Thanks for the input.