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Old 11-24-2004, 10:50 PM
  #8881  
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A friend of mine had some and they were longer than a standard aluminum cvd bone or a shiny MIP bone. I never actually tried them though so I cannot confirm that they do or do not fit.
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Old 11-24-2004, 10:58 PM
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Does your 28mm foams rub on everthing....
you shouldn't have a problem with that.......everyone i race with that owns a pro4 uses 28mm parma, jaco, trc, tm racing, ect foams with no problems.
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Old 11-24-2004, 11:23 PM
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Originally posted by Pro4
yeh. there more fragile than the one-way gears.
If you have a half-hard knock than they just snap. I've broken two already.

If you do get one, definately but spare outdrives
too bad spare outdrives cost $20.

i say hpi spool.
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Old 11-24-2004, 11:26 PM
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I say Losi XXX-S
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Old 11-24-2004, 11:27 PM
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Default Doug...

I meant front to back. TC4 has an extra cell slot to move it forwards or back for more traction or more steering. I was wondering if the Pro 4 had a medium feel? I wonder why HPI never added an extra slot. Thanks for the reply Doug. I was wondering if HPI was going to make steel ones. I do have to say that the AE light steel outdrives are nice.
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Old 11-24-2004, 11:36 PM
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Default tc3stocker...

I had a XXX-S. Nice car, but I thought it needed some very small fixes. I have bad batteries and it showed it. The shaft cars are so much freer. Now, I have been told the X-ray is very free for a belted tc. Not sure, since I have never seen one up close.
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Old 11-24-2004, 11:47 PM
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my XXX-S is freer than most XRAY's, and I use the stock bearings

you just have to work at things, find the problems and figure out how they effect other things and then decide if the effect coinsides with what you want

there are a bunch of ways that you can go out and go broke because you can buy the best stuff, but there are alot of racers that can take the stock car that you started out with and not spend a dime and make it faster than the car you went broke on

one could be surprised at how much information is out there, you just have to go looking for it, and one would also be surprised at how so many little things tend to add up to big things
Attached Thumbnails Hpi Pro 4-losixxx-s.jpg  
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Old 11-25-2004, 12:26 AM
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Default Yes, your right...

but honestly I don't have time to spend hours working on a car anymore. I just want to set it up and drive it. Wife, kids, work, I don't have time to find solutions. I don't even want to ask myself questions like why does this flex and why does this flop around. I want quality, durability, a free drivetrain and everthing in the kit I need. I know it's not a real big deal, I guess I'm anal and it's my perfectionist personality. It drive me nuts! Well, maybe I'm nuts? Oh, well. I think the Pro 4 fits my needs and wants. I'll keep the TC4 and run two classes. I've be wanting an indoor and outdoor tc.

I got my XXX-S free rolling, but I had to degrease the bearings. I don't like doing that and my TC4 is much freer stock than my XXX-S was after working on it.
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Old 11-25-2004, 12:38 AM
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Default Re: Yes, your right...

Originally posted by RCknight
but honestly I don't have time to spend hours working on a car anymore. I just want to set it up and drive it. Wife, kids, work, I don't have time to find solutions. I don't even want to ask myself questions like why does this flex and why does this flop around. I want quality, durability, a free drivetrain and everthing in the kit I need. I know it's not a real big deal, I guess I'm anal and it's my perfectionist personality. It drive me nuts! Well, maybe I'm nuts? Oh, well. I think the Pro 4 fits my needs and wants. I'll keep the TC4 and run two classes. I've be wanting an indoor and outdoor tc.

I got my XXX-S free rolling, but I had to degrease the bearings. I don't like doing that and my TC4 is much freer stock than my XXX-S was after working on it.
the grease that comes in most bearings is designed to last and be relatively maintenance free. if you leave it in it should take quite some time before the bearings start feeling booty.

however if you're racing then you should always spray out your bearings (taking shield off works best), and use oil. then do regular maintenance (clean and re-oil) for the freest drivetrain.
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Old 11-25-2004, 12:41 AM
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Default Re: Doug...

Originally posted by RCknight
I meant front to back. TC4 has an extra cell slot to move it forwards or back for more traction or more steering. I was wondering if the Pro 4 had a medium feel? I wonder why HPI never added an extra slot. Thanks for the reply Doug. I was wondering if HPI was going to make steel ones. I do have to say that the AE light steel outdrives are nice.
if you keep the batt in a fixed position, the balance of the car is always the same. i mean once you balance out the car with static weight it stays balanced. if you where to move the batt, esp a large distance like a whole cell, the chassis would become VERY off balance and all your equip would have to be moved to rebalance it. so moving batts isnt something you should be doign at the track.

also for a given geometry there is going to be an ideal weight balance (f/r) that is going to work best, so you really only need 1 batt location, if the car is designed properly.

dont worry that you dont have batt adjustment, you'll be fine!
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Old 11-25-2004, 01:45 AM
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Default Re: Re: Re: Well I'm thinking of getting rid of the

Originally posted by Entropy
TC3 CVDs are identical. I've personally placed them side by side.

So we pro4 ppl have a few options

Pro4 CVDs
TC3 Stock CVDs
TC3 HD CVDs
TC3 Composite CVDs (dirt cheap and possibly good for stock) edit: if they are longer, someone will have to try them out.
anymore TC3 CVD types??
The TC4 aluminum dogbones work great. Stronger than MIP Shiny ones IMO.
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Old 11-25-2004, 03:27 AM
  #8892  
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I race my Pro 4 on a tight indoor carpet track and it's right on the pace, the PRP chassis has helped to give quicker response and better corner speed after stiffening up the suspension a little.

The delrin outdrives should be even more durable than the stock graphite outdrives, I've been running mine in the front and rear of my car since they came out and there are no signs of wear yet.
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Old 11-25-2004, 04:25 AM
  #8893  
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yes it was about the Barry white who started this thread ( maybe i had ad summin to drink )
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Old 11-25-2004, 06:13 AM
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when i spin my 1 way. the left wheel spins nicely but the right wheels feels like its binding something cause there is a sound. what can i do 2 disolve this?
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Old 11-25-2004, 06:49 AM
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Check that your bearings in the wheel hub are OK. Make sure that the CVD pin is central in the bone and not sticking out and catching on the steering knuckle. Clean out the one-way diff outdrive etc. you have have got some grit or something in there.
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