Doug Gaut

Hey cool! Glad to know that!!! Thanks Rob.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

The sway bar that I have on my car is home made and is a copy of the stock ones just thicker gauge wire. It fits in the car with out any other mod....like drilling out the ball link or the diff case. If you go with a bigger gauge wire then you will need to make some modifications so everything fits. The wire I got from my LHS most seem to carry that type of stuff.


When you use the TC3 bars they are little wider then the stock bars so you might need to pinch or squeeze them together so the ends are not so far apart. They fit but the end links are not perpendicular to the lower arm unless you squeeze them together more.....and if the links are not perpendicular then they might not work as well.....this is why I bent my own bar....but TC3 ones are easy to get and make fit.

ND

Hi guys

I have a question regarding the thrust bearing in the diff. Does anyone make a moulded thrust bearing rather than using just the balls and 2 plates????

Eirik

Hello ND,

I use the Tamiya trust bearing along with the Tamiya diff screw and Spring and it works awesome!! No modification needed and it's far more reliable than the stock parts! Makes the diff super Smoooooooth!

ND

Hey Eirik

Do you have the Tamiya part numbers for the screw, bearing and spring?


Cheers
Neil

Eirik

ND,

Tamiya Diff Screw = 9805669
Tamiya Trust Bearing = 9805670

Sorry could not find anything for the spring, but Yokomo spring will fit good as well......
Speedtech should have everything in stock, so you could always ask in his tread!

blast

iTrader: (28)

hey kevin k. what front drive did u use?

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Im not 100% sure what you mean by this but I had a diff in the front if this is what you are asking.

Tres

iTrader: (14)

Kevin K: drop me an email, I have a set-up sheet for you.

[email protected]

azenis

couple of quick ones...

i am running my car in stock, and was thinking of reducing rear toe. i have the following blocks - 0, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 (fitted to the front) and 3

What would I be best to use? I was thinking 1.5 to start with?

Also when I have my car on my setup station, with the 3.0 block on (havent tried others yet) it measures 2.5 on the left hand side, but 3.0 on the right hand side. anyone else have this happen? It is the same if i flip the gauge over and use the reverse, so i dont think it is the gauge (though it could be out somewhere....)

Also there is a lot of fore and aft movement in my rear a-arms, what is the best way to get rid of that?

azenis

oh yeah... i am running CS22s this weekend, have been running ellegi (and have more on the way so will be swapping between them depending on conditions)

Also got a diff in the front

jonny69

Going from 3, to 1.5 rear toe will give you a dramatically free rear end in comparisom to the 3degree blocks. I would try 2, or 2.5 first.

When you tighten the screws to the blocks try tightening them whilst compressing the two blocks togeather, this will remove alot of the slop. I you have differnt amounts of slop either side then your rear toe will be out, just retighten and check again on the gague. Jonathan

blast

iTrader: (28)

yes

thank you

Skill

If your toe is out then it is possible you have bent one of your pivot blocks and that is what is also causing the slop in the wishbones.

StewartFan20

iTrader: (4)

Anyone know who makes the woven graphite drive shaft? And, where might I get one?

Thanks