86LikesHpi Pro 4
09-05-2004, 07:17 AM
#7381
Re: tunning note
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
JUST A QUICK TUNNING TIP THAT I WAS TOLD AT THE TRACK TODAY, VERY USEFUL.
i was told by one of the more experience racers today the following;
PROBLEM;
with my new PRP chassis the car's rear end stuck too much, leaving the front to understeer entering corners. the car exited well but did not rotate enough around the corner or during mid corner. I HAD TO SLOW DOWN TO MUCH TO GET THE DESIRED ROTATION THROUGH A CORNER.
REMEDY;
i was told to place spacers under the camber links on the chassis side of the link. ie make the links more horizontal. i was currently running no spacers on the ballcups closest to the chassis.
i placed 3 washers at the rear (equaling 2.5mm lift) this instantly made the car rotate around the corners much better and eliminated almost all understeer.
PRP CHASSIS SO FAR?
i found the chassis to work fine on a dusty track. infact it felt better than the stock HPI setup. the car was alot more responsive to initial steering input and all signs of exit understeer have disapeared. i have found though that it was neccessary for me to place the stock swaybar at the rear (black). i was also running the short wheel base.
JUST A QUICK TUNNING TIP THAT I WAS TOLD AT THE TRACK TODAY, VERY USEFUL.
i was told by one of the more experience racers today the following;
PROBLEM;
with my new PRP chassis the car's rear end stuck too much, leaving the front to understeer entering corners. the car exited well but did not rotate enough around the corner or during mid corner. I HAD TO SLOW DOWN TO MUCH TO GET THE DESIRED ROTATION THROUGH A CORNER.
REMEDY;
i was told to place spacers under the camber links on the chassis side of the link. ie make the links more horizontal. i was currently running no spacers on the ballcups closest to the chassis.
i placed 3 washers at the rear (equaling 2.5mm lift) this instantly made the car rotate around the corners much better and eliminated almost all understeer.
PRP CHASSIS SO FAR?
i found the chassis to work fine on a dusty track. infact it felt better than the stock HPI setup. the car was alot more responsive to initial steering input and all signs of exit understeer have disapeared. i have found though that it was neccessary for me to place the stock swaybar at the rear (black). i was also running the short wheel base.
09-06-2004, 02:31 AM
#7382
Tech Initiate
1. Has anyone tried the titanium F/R input shafts from square
2. How durable/strong is titanium compared to steel
2. How durable/strong is titanium compared to steel
09-06-2004, 02:36 AM
#7383
Originally posted by rudster
1. Has anyone tried the titanium F/R input shafts from square
2. How durable/strong is titanium compared to steel
1. Has anyone tried the titanium F/R input shafts from square
2. How durable/strong is titanium compared to steel
I use them right now... but I have swiched over to the Rear Alloy one from square that has the spur mount/shaft as one piece
As far as Durability.I have not had one problem with the Alloy or Ti ones what so ever-Dave
09-06-2004, 05:04 AM
#7384
do i call hpi customer service to order version 1.1 gears?
09-06-2004, 05:07 AM
#7385
kevin2
go the dancing Strong Bad!!
go the dancing Strong Bad!!
09-06-2004, 08:12 AM
#7386
hi
i want to get mty pro4 drive train more free and consistant can anyone tell how to do this ive just purchases acer ceramic diff balls as this will make the diff smoother.
im on a budget of 30 quid can any1 help
i want to get mty pro4 drive train more free and consistant can anyone tell how to do this ive just purchases acer ceramic diff balls as this will make the diff smoother.
im on a budget of 30 quid can any1 help
09-06-2004, 08:16 AM
#7387
Tech Regular
Originally posted by pro4racer
hi
i want to get mty pro4 drive train more free and consistant can anyone tell how to do this ive just purchases acer ceramic diff balls as this will make the diff smoother.
im on a budget of 30 quid can any1 help
hi
i want to get mty pro4 drive train more free and consistant can anyone tell how to do this ive just purchases acer ceramic diff balls as this will make the diff smoother.
im on a budget of 30 quid can any1 help
Chazz
09-06-2004, 08:27 AM
#7388
ok thanks ill try that
is there any other ways on getting my chassis to spin free for atleast 10 seconds without spending money.
is there any other ways on getting my chassis to spin free for atleast 10 seconds without spending money.
09-06-2004, 08:30 AM
#7389
Tech Regular
you could shim the gears but i don't really know how to 
Chazz
Chazz
09-06-2004, 08:51 AM
#7390
Yes, mine spins about that long and I have all stock components. Bearings are a good start. I use denatured alcohol in a jewlery cleaner and one drop of 5wt. sythetic motor oil. I also remove the shield from one side. If you do this, make sure you always put the side without the shielf towards the inside of the car.
To shim the diffs.
Put the diff and bevel gear in. Check the side play of the diff gear, just move it side to side and check the backlash of the outdrive gear. For backlash, hold the diff gear and wiggle the bevel gear.
If the side play is to much, add a shim. If there to much backlash, add the shim to the side that will tighten the backlash (or move the diff gear closer to the bevel gear)
When you get it just right there should hardly no side to side movement of the diff gear. The backlash of the bevel gear should feel about the same as your spur/pinion gear mesh.
Make sense? Kinda hard to explain.
It takes a little time, but worth it. Just be careful when you clean the car to get everything back in the same place.
Also, I use a couple drops X-1R lubricant on the gear. You can get it at any automotive place. Grease on the gears make them sticky.
take care
john
To shim the diffs.
Put the diff and bevel gear in. Check the side play of the diff gear, just move it side to side and check the backlash of the outdrive gear. For backlash, hold the diff gear and wiggle the bevel gear.
If the side play is to much, add a shim. If there to much backlash, add the shim to the side that will tighten the backlash (or move the diff gear closer to the bevel gear)
When you get it just right there should hardly no side to side movement of the diff gear. The backlash of the bevel gear should feel about the same as your spur/pinion gear mesh.
Make sense? Kinda hard to explain.
It takes a little time, but worth it. Just be careful when you clean the car to get everything back in the same place.
Also, I use a couple drops X-1R lubricant on the gear. You can get it at any automotive place. Grease on the gears make them sticky.
take care
john
09-06-2004, 08:54 AM
#7391
Tech Apprentice
If you are desperate to have your drivetrain spin for a long time just clean everything ou good and proper, there may be a little notchy feeling in some of the bearings (ideally they need replacing) spend a few dollars and replace the knackered ones. Then put the car back togeather applying alot of diff grease to the bevel and diff gears so that the contact between them is smooth. then find an old motor and leave it on turnig the over on about half trim for a full battery pack (3300's are the best) with the wheels spinning. When you take the motor off you should easily be able to spin the wheels for 10 seconds. If you still can't then you have done some thing wrong. I have found that some wheels I put on used to catch on the rear hub carrier camber link, I thought something was seriously wrong, nut after looking a bit closer and taking a fille to the cup it was fine and spins free. Hope this helps. Jonathan
09-06-2004, 08:58 AM
#7392
ok thanks ill try that when he sais back lash what does that mean
09-06-2004, 09:08 AM
#7393
Backlash:
Where your drive shaft comes into the diff case. How much slop that has in it is the backlash. Hold the outdrives or diff gear and wiggle the center drive shaft without a motor in it. That is the backlash. You can adjust that with shims by moving the diff gear closer or further away from the bevel gear.
I don't remember how much there is with the stock shims, just a adjustment I got use to checking with the TC3.
Where your drive shaft comes into the diff case. How much slop that has in it is the backlash. Hold the outdrives or diff gear and wiggle the center drive shaft without a motor in it. That is the backlash. You can adjust that with shims by moving the diff gear closer or further away from the bevel gear.
I don't remember how much there is with the stock shims, just a adjustment I got use to checking with the TC3.
09-06-2004, 09:20 AM
#7394
Maybe this will help. Add a shim where the red arrow is to tighten the backlash (or gear mesh).
Remember you are shimming the side to side movement of the diff assembly and changing the backlash whenever you add a shim to one side.
It's really not that difficult. Once you play it a little, it will make sense.
Gotta go to the track now. Email if your still having problems and I'll talk with ya tonight.
take care
john
Remember you are shimming the side to side movement of the diff assembly and changing the backlash whenever you add a shim to one side.
It's really not that difficult. Once you play it a little, it will make sense.
Gotta go to the track now. Email if your still having problems and I'll talk with ya tonight.
take care
john
09-06-2004, 10:36 AM
#7395
what do u think will make more of of a difference having the car ballenced or having really light? i did get it ballanced but i can take the wieght off.