azenis

I wouldnt mind the part numbers if anyone has them...

VenomWorldOrder

here is that picture again that someone posted. what are the part numbers needed?

Doug Gaut

Azenis,

Here are the part numbers:
#6582 Diff Thrust Spring
#6575 T-Nut and Thrust Bolt

I know others have modified their outdrives to move the parts around but I have had great luck with just installing these parts and doing nothing else.

Silvercomet

I'm not sure if anyone has ask this about the Pro4, but after I installed my sway bars, I tried to compress one shock to see how the other side responds, but the other side does not raise up at all. I'm using the thickest roll bar already. Am I installing it wrong?

X2

you could be doing the two grubscrews that go through the top diffcase to tight. Just get them so that they take up the play in the rollbar mount without clamping the rollbar.

Silvercomet

X2,

Doesn't seem to work, the bar slides sideways when the screws aren't tight enough, and when I take away the play by holding, the bar still seems to have minimal effect.

azenis

Mine does the same....

Silvercomet

At first I thought it doesn't necessarily have to raise the other side, it just has to apply an upward force to the other side when one side is compressed. But when I look at my TB Evo3, it DOES raise the other side, even with the thinnest roll bar. Anyone else has the same problem?

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

When I added the Associated pieces to my diff, I didn't cut the diff slots deeper....no one mentioned it.

Seems to work fine as is though.

And the diff hasn't loosened up since!

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

To the test properly... remove the shocks and wheels... install the stock sway bars. raise one of the arms and the other should raise close to the same height. This was how the swaybars were tested to set equal when I had my Xray.

Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

It also put downward force to the one you are trying to compres...

Just because you can't tell, it doesn't mean it won't work. I am sure most of us can't tell which springs are harder or softer when they are in close range of each other, but on the car, it makes a difference...

That's the way i see it

robk

iTrader: (22)

You may also want to add the little collars DuBro sells. You can slide them on the bar until they stop. Tighten the grub screw and they will stay in place, keeping the bar from going sideways when it flexes.

The collars are used to hold the wheels on rc airplanes, or to hold together 2 z bends for a servo linkage (think RC10 from 1985)

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

I dont use roll bars,my car works fine without them,In fact at the track I race at the car worked much better without them..asphalt,parking lot track,med grip.

rice

same with me as long as the car performs well i dont use roll bars.

woodward

Hey guys, I just purchased my Pro4 and am in the process of assembling it. But, the front diff. doesn't seem to be operating correctly to me. Could you guys tell me if this operation seems correct?

When looking down the shaft towards the front of the car, and spinning the shaft clockwise, I can't hold one wheel. It forces the wheel I am holding to turn.

The way I expect it to work, is that it allows me to hold one wheel steady, while forcing the other wheel to rotate at a faster rate. This is my first 4-wheel drive, so maybe that's it.

Please let me know if this operation is correct. thank-you