Hpi Pro 4

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  • Good thing I have a handful of the older diff gears in my pit box... I like the PRP brace better....
  • Version 1.1 pic
    Here is the 1st shot


  • One more
    Bevel gears.
    -Dave


  • Quote:
    Originally posted by rc-zombies
    Good thing I have a handful of the older diff gears in my pit box... I like the PRP brace better....
    Yep your like me Zombies..about 10 sets to be exact
    But the Bevel gears are much stronger
    -Dave
  • Thanks for the props, guys It's too bad my design won't work with the news gears. I'm glad I was able to help guys finish their races with gears intact - for a few months at least. They should continue to keep your gears in good shape for quite a while. I hope you guys can continue to use the part for severl months yet, if not longer.

    I think I am learning a lesson. "Manufacturers will eventually fix the problem if it is serious enough". The same thing happened when I made some brace kits for the XXX4 buggy's shock towers. Thankfully I was able to sell all of those kits...

    Thanks again!
    Ben
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by TeamPRP
    Thanks for the props, guys It's too bad my design won't work with the news gears. I'm glad I was able to help guys finish their races with gears intact - for a few months at least. They should continue to keep your gears in good shape for quite a while. I hope you guys can continue to use the part for severl months yet, if not longer.

    I think I am learning a lesson. "Manufacturers will eventually fix the problem if it is serious enough". The same thing happened when I made some brace kits for the XXX4 buggy's shock towers. Thankfully I was able to sell all of those kits...

    Thanks again!
    Ben
    Don`t worry Ben.. I`ll stillbe using your backing plate...because it`s lighter than the HPI one and plus I have a bunch of version 1 gears left

    -Dave
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by BlueisBetter
    Hey all

    Hey Skill

    quick question for you

    I have built the diffs up front and rear on the car and both slip at just the right amount ie the front slightly slips less then the rear but the question is although the front diff is tighter it feels smoother in its action then the rear which slips more so would it be better putting the one that feels like it has a bit more resistance up front or leave it in the rear would this cause any handling problems

    cheers lads
    If you prefer a tighter front diff then I would swap them round. However, my front diff also seems smoother than the rear diff and my car handles great!
  • Is there a new kit coming out with the updated parts or will you still have to buy them separately?
  • i've found with my pro4 that the rear diff keeps loosening itself. i run a hacker 6T.

    after applying threadlock to the nut, not long after this the long diff screw snaped at the head.

    is there a safe way to keep the diff a consistent tightness?

    ALSO IS IT POSSIBLE DO PLACE A THICKER SCREW THROUGH THE DIFF SYSTEM? ie a xray rear diff screw?

    regarding the old pro4 oneway gears i ordered 12 from japan, i think i dead-set ordered the last of the mohikans
  • Most people have been replacing their diff screws and diff nut with Associated's diff screw, T-nut, and spring.

    I've have the parts to make the switch, but haven't done it yet. Probably will do it today since this is a off weekend for me.
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by Darkseid
    Most people have been replacing their diff screws and diff nut with Associated's diff screw, T-nut, and spring.
    and i decide to ask this question only AFTER i order $17000 yen worth of parts!

    personally i found the hpi t nut very strong. is th associated one even stronger?!

    is the thread on the asso screw thicker than hpi's?
  • AE's diff spring is stronger, and the t-nut integrates the nut and plastic portion. There is more nylon to grab the screw. I believe the screw is a bit bigger as well.
  • You know I just love my Pro4,Best car I have had..ever,I will put up with a few problems,To be this fast.. Due to some stuff going on I had not been able to race for about 8 weeks,Raced last night and all I can say is wow..this car is so easy to set up and drive,finished in 2nd in 19 turn and same in stock,I had the fastest lap times but I had not raced in so long I would brain fade 2-3 times in a race..
  • Re: Re: Re: Re: HEATSINK MOTOR MOUNT
    Can someone tell me what is meant by 'both front and rear suspension mounts without any spacers.'??

    I do not have the 'assembly guide' and it is not avail for download so I think I may be missing out on some useful info.

    Please help



    Quote:
    Originally posted by Skill
    I was experiencing understeer in the initial turn-in. A couple of other guys at my club were running Pro 4's and were running both front and rear suspension mounts without any spacers. This seemed to get the back end to come out a little on the turn in and made the car much more driveable.

    However, I'm sure you could get even more of an effect by only lowering either the front or rear, one way will give you more grip and the other less but I'm not sure which way around it goes.

    I find the setup tips in the manual very helpful to find out what things do, the first thing I would try is to run the standard rear sway bar but not the front one.
  • First of all if you go onto HPI's website I'm sure they have the manual posted for download there. (If not on HPI USA try HPI Europe (www.hpieurope.com).

    Basically what I meant was to take out the spacers between the suspension arm mounts (the purple alloy bits which are screwed onto the chassis) and the chassis. The spacers are rectangular with 2 holes, one each end and come in purple and black depending on thickness.

    I have attached a picture showing the suspension arm mount and the spacer underneath it.