86LikesHpi Pro 4
02-26-2004, 08:02 AM
#1876
Re: Spring Perches
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
jleibund: Those aluminum spring perches are the problem. They will limit the how low you can set the ride height. I would recommend the stock plastic piece as they will lower the spring around 3mm. The aluminum perches replicate the spacing of our older cars (Pro 2, Pro 3) and set the spring higher up. The second problem will be the body hitting the front shock tower. The Lotus body's nose is a bit lower than most.
-E
jleibund: Those aluminum spring perches are the problem. They will limit the how low you can set the ride height. I would recommend the stock plastic piece as they will lower the spring around 3mm. The aluminum perches replicate the spacing of our older cars (Pro 2, Pro 3) and set the spring higher up. The second problem will be the body hitting the front shock tower. The Lotus body's nose is a bit lower than most.
-E
02-26-2004, 10:24 AM
#1878
Re: Re: Spring Perches
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Last edited by Erik Shauver; 09-11-2006 at 11:59 AM.
02-26-2004, 11:06 AM
#1880
Tech Initiate
Erik, zombie thanks for the tips. I'll try the stock ones tonight to see if they make a difference. I'd like to keep the larger tires just for tooling around, not racing. Of course I don't want my car to ride too high. I'll look into the mounts too and maybe post some closeups to see what you guys think. I tripple-checked the manual for the right parts and orientation, but I may have missed something. BTW, I took the car out for ~5 minutes today... it was freakin awesome, but definitely needs to be balanced and setup! Waiting for my setup board to arrive...
I'm noticing that regardless of what wheel I try, the camber links in the rear are dangerously close to the inside of the rims. Is this just another argument for different wheels or could 1mm spacers help out?
zombie, I was careful to check the front for this based on a post you made a few weeks ago. My front wheels have sufficient clearance now.
For anyone who is effectively a beginner, like me, but wants to work on and drive a pro-level car, I'd recommend the touring setup guide that XXX-Main publishes. I've been very pleased with it. I'm sure lots of you know of better ones, still this is nice, compact and informative.
JP
I'm noticing that regardless of what wheel I try, the camber links in the rear are dangerously close to the inside of the rims. Is this just another argument for different wheels or could 1mm spacers help out?
zombie, I was careful to check the front for this based on a post you made a few weeks ago. My front wheels have sufficient clearance now.
For anyone who is effectively a beginner, like me, but wants to work on and drive a pro-level car, I'd recommend the touring setup guide that XXX-Main publishes. I've been very pleased with it. I'm sure lots of you know of better ones, still this is nice, compact and informative.
JP
02-26-2004, 12:03 PM
#1881
jleibund - The CS-27 tires I run were also very close to the ballcups, and a slightly tweaked wheel was rubbing the ball cups. I just shaved a slight amount off and it was perfect.
Take a file, exacto, or dremel and just shave off enough to make you more comfortable if needed.
I also keep the XXX-main book in my tool box as a quick reference guide
Take a file, exacto, or dremel and just shave off enough to make you more comfortable if needed.
I also keep the XXX-main book in my tool box as a quick reference guide
Last edited by TSR6; 02-26-2004 at 02:18 PM.
02-26-2004, 02:07 PM
#1883
Originally posted by TSR6
I also keep the XXX-main book in my tool box as a quick refferance guide
I also keep the XXX-main book in my tool box as a quick refferance guide
02-26-2004, 02:19 PM
#1884
Originally posted by futureal
I think you should consider keeping a dictionary there as well, as a "refferance" guide.
I think you should consider keeping a dictionary there as well, as a "refferance" guide.
02-26-2004, 02:53 PM
#1885
I got mine too today All those purple parts, i have to use sunglassies
I also got my spareparts from HK.
Very nice car to assembly.... i hardly can`t wait when i`ll go our clubtrack
All those purple parts, i have to use sunglassies I also got my spareparts from HK.
Very nice car to assembly.... i hardly can`t wait when i`ll go our clubtrack
02-27-2004, 08:39 AM
#1886
Hi Guys,
We finally were able to put together Ti-Screw kit for the HPI Pro4 These are high quality light weight titanium 2.0 mm hex wrench type screws. Available now!
Steve Wang
We finally were able to put together Ti-Screw kit for the HPI Pro4 These are high quality light weight titanium 2.0 mm hex wrench type screws. Available now!
Steve Wang
02-27-2004, 08:46 AM
#1888
Registered User
Finally, I fix my diff gear.
I try out debonder almost melt the geat. I use dremel and hobby knife and take out the spacer. Well, I didn't use CA this time, see if its going to cause problem. Need to get some super thin CA. I'm half way there finishing my pro4. Pretty smooth for the drivetrain. The chassis is much stiffer than my Rayspeed SD, but I have to said. The design of drivetrain. SD is still the best. If can combine pro4 and SD, like what Kai do to SD and Evo3. That would be the best drive shaft car. Use Pro4 chassis, suspension system, steering, shock towers, and use SD drivetrain system.
I try out debonder almost melt the geat. I use dremel and hobby knife and take out the spacer. Well, I didn't use CA this time, see if its going to cause problem. Need to get some super thin CA. I'm half way there finishing my pro4. Pretty smooth for the drivetrain. The chassis is much stiffer than my Rayspeed SD, but I have to said. The design of drivetrain. SD is still the best. If can combine pro4 and SD, like what Kai do to SD and Evo3. That would be the best drive shaft car. Use Pro4 chassis, suspension system, steering, shock towers, and use SD drivetrain system.
02-27-2004, 08:51 AM
#1889
Originally posted by Aku-Man
Finally, I fix my diff gear. I try out debonder almost melt the geat. I use dremel and hobby knife and take out the spacer. Well, I didn't use CA this time, see if its going to cause problem. Need to get some super thin CA. I'm half way there finishing my pro4. Pretty smooth for the drivetrain. The chassis is much stiffer than my Rayspeed SD, but I have to said. The design of drivetrain. SD is still the best to work on. If can combine pro4 and SD, like what Kai do to SD and Evo3. That would be the best drive shaft car. Use Pro4 chassis, suspension system, steering, shock towers, and use SD drivetrain system.
Finally, I fix my diff gear.
I try out debonder almost melt the geat. I use dremel and hobby knife and take out the spacer. Well, I didn't use CA this time, see if its going to cause problem. Need to get some super thin CA. I'm half way there finishing my pro4. Pretty smooth for the drivetrain. The chassis is much stiffer than my Rayspeed SD, but I have to said. The design of drivetrain. SD is still the best to work on. If can combine pro4 and SD, like what Kai do to SD and Evo3. That would be the best drive shaft car. Use Pro4 chassis, suspension system, steering, shock towers, and use SD drivetrain system.
I'll have to agree with you..the SD is easier to work on..especially changing the spur gears and diff access.. the Pro4 chassis and performance overall is one of the best...
02-27-2004, 11:02 AM
#1890
Working on the Pro4 is pretty easy once the screw holes get worked in a little bit. The first couple times of removing the upper deck can be a chore thanks to the stiff composites. Now that I've put the screws in and out several times, It's not so bad.
This morning I tore down the car to de-shield the bearings in the diffs, and check the teeth before making a practice run at the US Triple Crown race, and had it back together before my practice pack had peaked.
It's no harder to work on than any other electric car I've had.
Time to head back to the track!
This morning I tore down the car to de-shield the bearings in the diffs, and check the teeth before making a practice run at the US Triple Crown race, and had it back together before my practice pack had peaked.
It's no harder to work on than any other electric car I've had.
Time to head back to the track!