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Old 12-11-2008, 12:21 PM   #301
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Originally Posted by MrSlow View Post
hi Guys

Glad to join the thread. Doing my first 12th scale build with my new Rev5...a few basic questions:

1. What all parts do I locktite?
2. How tight do the Tweak Brace Stand-Offs need to be? do i use a pliers on stand-offs or just hand tighten? Do i locktite stand-offs?
3. Do I need to file and round-over the lower pod plate around the center link area?
4. What do i use to polish front suspension balls?

Thanks
Jason
I found it detrimental to loc-tite anything, especially the pivot balls since you may eventually need to remove or adjust and there is no way to hold them tight enough if loctited. The only thing I've found is for the first few packs the side links and all pod screws will need checked, after that routine checking is all thats needed.

I would definitely sand and seal the edges of the chassis in the front near body post and the sides at the links at least, I ussually do the whole chassis.

To polish the balls I find putting a screw thru the middle and chucking it into a drill and using polishing compound or toothpaste and cloth works well.

That's how I've done both my 4.5's and all 3 5.0's and they run awesome.

Enjoy
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Last edited by miller tyme; 12-11-2008 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 12-11-2008, 12:32 PM   #302
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Originally Posted by MrSlow View Post
hi Guys

Glad to join the thread. Doing my first 12th scale build with my new Rev5...a few basic questions:

1. What all parts do I locktite?
2. How tight do the Tweak Brace Stand-Offs need to be? do i use a pliers on stand-offs or just hand tighten? Do i locktite stand-offs?
3. Do I need to file and round-over the lower pod plate around the center link area?
4. What do i use to polish front suspension balls?

Thanks
Jason
I use some folded over header card and pliers to tighten the standoffs, that gets them plenty tight without marring the standoff. I have seen some that have a hole drilled in them so you can put a small hex wrench through and tighten
that way.

Simichrome works great for polishing balls and kingpins. And stuff you just want shiney too!
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Last edited by odpurple; 12-13-2008 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 12-11-2008, 01:26 PM   #303
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Thanks for the info
Where can I find the Semichrome?
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Old 12-11-2008, 02:04 PM   #304
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Nice job on the cross drill thing, OD. That will be my next mod... For polishing I have used Brasso or some Mother's aluminum polish, both work great, and a tub of Mother's will last a life time for you and all your buddies...

I used to use loc-tite on a lot of the parts, especially the pivot balls. I think you will want to check the screws when you are bored, just like any other car. One thing that you will be served well with, is a good quality tool set. Cranking down on the pivot screws will serve you well to keep them from loosening. Also a good quality cross point (phillips) screw driver for the front end screws will go a long way, even though the screws are stainless steel.

As far as chassis edges, under the side links is important, so that your tape will not cut on the chassis during impact. Also, if you will be using Nimh batteries, you will want to break the edges the cells rest on to; 1. get the cells lower in the chassis (don't let them sit below the chassis), and 2. keep them from cutting the insulation of the cells. The latter is the most important, as carbon fiber is conductive. If you allow the chassis to touch the raw cells, you could have a chassis fire on your hands. I usually have a test pack on hand to check the depth while filing.

The rest of the chassis finishing is either for show or your comfort while handling the chassis...
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Old 12-11-2008, 02:29 PM   #305
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Thanks timmay70
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Old 12-11-2008, 02:56 PM   #306
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Tim
Don't see your name on the list for Fastcats! You going?
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Old 12-11-2008, 03:26 PM   #307
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Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
and a tub of Beav's Mother's will last a life time for you and all your buddies...
Hey, that's not too nice to talk about Beav's mom like that....
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Old 12-11-2008, 03:27 PM   #308
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I have the REV 4.5 with the Dynamic front end...
question is : The old skool front end is better handle on high or low grip traction?
I know it's a bit late, but I had great luck with the front end on both high bite (ie big races) and low-medium bite (ie club).

You will just want to make sure that your tires are running flat and not coning. You can use card stock to adjust the neccessary camber...

hope that helps....
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Old 12-11-2008, 03:59 PM   #309
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Tim
Don't see your name on the list for Fastcats! You going?
Sadly I cannot go, and I am truly bummed out about this. Life has a habit of changing our best intentions. At this point I am looking for 3 of the 4, and Birds... I'm thinking that Nats may have to make up for my missing race.
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Old 12-11-2008, 04:02 PM   #310
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Hey, that's not too nice to talk about Beav's mom like that....
Sorry, it must have slipped. I meant Casey's mom's, and that will last several lifetimes...
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Old 12-12-2008, 04:26 PM   #311
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what tweak springs come with the rev5 stock.
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Old 12-12-2008, 05:32 PM   #312
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23's
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Old 12-13-2008, 11:10 AM   #313
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Thanks for the info
Where can I find the Semichrome?
You can find it at some hardware stores, usually in the automotive section. Or you can PM me
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Old 12-15-2008, 06:45 PM   #314
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Ok - so just got my SpeedMerchant Aluminum Bulkheads, and the motor mount side is cut different from the Delrin part. Specifically it appears that the slot for the lower motor mount screw is about 1mm too low for proper screw engagement to the motor.

So in short, the bottom motor screw cannot go into the motor straight without damaging the motor itself. Also, another local racer bought the same SpeedMerchant Aluminum bulkheads and had the same issue, so this is not a one-off issue.

Question - Would it be safe to file the extra material out of the bottom motor mount slot, in effect widening the gap? I will be using the Fat Boy motor mount washers and screws, so there should be plently of surface area for the washer.
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Old 12-18-2008, 12:28 PM   #315
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Question - Would it be safe to file the extra material out of the bottom motor mount slot, in effect widening the gap? I will be using the Fat Boy motor mount washers and screws, so there should be plently of surface area for the washer.
Hi
Sorry for not replying sooner to this question, the thread kinda got lost onto the 2nd page. I have noticed that it is a lil tight there with the motor screw myself. I've been running these same pod plates for awhile and I've noticed this less and less as time has gone on, I guess material has just worn away. I haven't tried filing the material away but I guess it couldnt hurt if it was really bothering you. It hasn't been a major problem, most importantly it does not tweak the pod at all after the motor has been tightened which would really be the only thing to worry about.

Let me know if you have any other ?'s will help as much as I can.

-Donny Lia
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