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Old 09-19-2007, 06:41 PM   #16
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I have been labelled the "forum fuhrer"...I give my stamp of approval! Thanks Linger!
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Old 09-19-2007, 06:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
Hey Ling

Thanks for the info. I need to talk to you about disposing of a suspect Lipo or maybe you can post to let everyone know what a proper safe way of doing this is. Know of any place that take these batteries in the B.A.?
..read this on www.runryder.com. don't know how accurate.posted by Hobbico......
This is from Hobbico Lipo charger manual:

http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpmp...manual-v1_2.pdf

Disposal Instructions:

1. If any LiPo cell in the pack has been physically damaged,
resulting in a swollen cell or a split or tear in a cell’s foil
covering, do NOT discharge the battery. Jump to step 5.

2. Place the LiPo battery in a fireproof container or bucket
of sand.

3. Connect the battery to a LiPo discharger. Set the discharge
cutoff voltage to the lowest possible value. Set the discharge
current to a C/10 value, with “C” being the capacity rating of
the pack. For example, the “1C” rating for a 1200mAh battery
is 1.2A, and that battery’s C/10 current value is (1.2A / 10)
0.12A or 120mA. Or, a simple resistive type of discharge load
can be used, such as a power resistor or set of light bulbs as
long as the discharge current doesn’t exceed the C/10
value and cause an overheating condition. For LiPo packs
rated at 7.4V and 11.1V, connect a 150 ohm resistor with a
power rating of 2 watts (commonly found at Radio Shack) to
the pack’s positive and negative terminals to safely discharge
the battery. It’s also possible to discharge the battery by
connecting it to an ESC/motor system and allowing the motor
to run indefinitely until no power remains to further cause the
system to function.

4. Discharge the battery until its voltage reaches 1.0V per cell
or lower. For resistive load type discharges, discharge the
battery for up to 24 hours.

5. Submerse the battery into bucket or tub of salt water. This
container should have a lid, but it does not need to be airtight.
Prepare a bucket or tub containing 3 to 5 gallons of cold
water, and mix in 1/2 cup of salt per gallon of water. Drop the
battery into the salt water. Allow the battery to remain in the
tub of salt water for at least 2 weeks.

6. Remove the LiPo battery from the salt water and place it in
the normal trash.
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Old 09-19-2007, 07:34 PM   #18
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Thanks Taylorm
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Old 09-20-2007, 06:23 AM   #19
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Chuck Norris user to be my hero ...now it's Ling!!
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Old 09-20-2007, 09:11 AM   #20
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only need to purchase Orion 3200 Carbon`s....




Then sleep with peace as they are the best and safest battery`s you can purchase today....
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Old 09-24-2007, 07:09 PM   #21
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ttt
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Old 09-24-2007, 07:40 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
only need to purchase Orion 3200 Carbon`s....




Then sleep with peace as they are the best and safest battery`s you can purchase today....
Um, no. There is no "safest" lipo, just adherence to their treatment. Performance wise, now THATS a different ballgame.
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Old 01-21-2008, 09:31 PM   #23
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linger
thanks for all the info
I use a Lipo without a hardcase and it is prone to bumps and bruses while it is in the car bec of the thinner size. Will secure this with foam next time

will bring this up so people can read again
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Old 01-21-2008, 09:37 PM   #24
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Ok but what do we need to know about reacting to one of these scenarios.
Lipo sack charging discharging fine. Do we need an ABC extinguisher at each table, near the track, tub of salt water. Gloves when marshaling.?
What procedure should we take when the worst thing happens.
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Old 01-22-2008, 01:52 AM   #25
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linger - Very informative Ling! Thanks for helping ROAR set-up the proper guidelines to fast track the "legal" use of LiPo packs at ROAR events!

I hope and pray IFMAR and the other governing Blocs follow suit... SOON!

Last edited by STEALTH; 01-22-2008 at 02:11 AM.
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Old 01-22-2008, 02:02 AM   #26
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Good stuff Linger I read this when you first posted it.

Stuff like this should be saved somewhere, either stickied in this or another forum or a FUD thread started with a link to this...
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Old 01-22-2008, 02:15 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
Ok but what do we need to know about reacting to one of these scenarios.
Lipo sack charging discharging fine. Do we need an ABC extinguisher at each table, near the track, tub of salt water. Gloves when marshaling.?
What procedure should we take when the worst thing happens.
I believe the best method is to have a bucket of sand close to hand. Water is a no-no (Lithium and H2O go boom, basically... I remember that from year 8 science!!)

We (ok, I) recently helped push through LiPo's at our local club. Specified hardcase only (this is helped by having a cell list which are the only legal ones to use at our club), and that anyone caught using a non-lipo charger will be banned...

Didn't specify use of a LiPo sack, as personally I would prefer to see a pack expanding and be able to do something about it, rather than trust a sack to work.

From the clubs point of view, we also made sure that we have three buckets of sand close to hand (one in race control, two in the pits) just in case the worst happens... unlikely, but you never can tell, especially if you read Point 5 above (very pleased I went Orion/Kokam now )

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Old 01-22-2008, 04:30 AM   #28
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What's one of these failure assessment companies, and who's one of the guys you talk to?
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:09 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
Ok but what do we need to know about reacting to one of these scenarios.
Lipo sack charging discharging fine. Do we need an ABC extinguisher at each table, near the track, tub of salt water. Gloves when marshaling.?
What procedure should we take when the worst thing happens.
You would need a class D to extinguish a chemical fire. Class ABC will not work with combustible metals. ABC will only work after the fact like pit table is goes up in flame. Tryhard is right water will react with metal fires in a nasty way. Use a water to put out a chemical fire such as Magnesium or Potassium it ain’t gonna be pretty.

Basically if you need to put out an “Actively venting or burning” LiPo cell(s) you need class D.

LiPo Sack is pretty much the way to go or go to a home depot and buy some clay flower pot or asking the lady of the house for an old well used crock pot and charge the cell in it. If you want to be creative then buy some either Kevlar or M5 synthetic fiber and sew it together just like a homemade LiPo sack. A sq. yard of it probably make you 2 or 3 sacks.

For transport or storage you would need go to a surplus shop and get an Ammo box, cheap and simple.
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:11 AM   #30
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Thank you Ling!!

To all: this link to the ROAR website is a general reader of information regardign the rules in ROAR and explanation of the safety tests we will be performing.

http://www.roarracing.com/downloads/...ipo_Reader.pdf

Lipo is only as safe as you, the racer, make it..... do not abuse the charging system and follow the guidelines as they are written on the battery and in the rules. There is no reason to request a pit area away from Lipo users. Its just another battery storage device.
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