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Old 12-10-2001, 09:22 AM   #16
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Wolf: How much hardware, like motors, do you buy to avoid maintenance? It's a dirty job but some else has to do it should be your moto in your signature.
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Old 12-10-2001, 10:16 AM   #17
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Wolf, like most serious hobbies, you get the fun and the pain. There is always something to go wrong when trying to obtain maximum performance and trust me, in electronics RC terms, we have been pushing the limit for some time now!!!

.... fortunately in the age of WWW you will at least find you are never alone with most problems and we are all here to share our experiences.... Trust me if it is not the ESC and radio then it would have been the brushes.... else would be " why don't they make everything in Titanium!!!"

I mean, hey the only two cars I have that never broke a thing are both Tamiyas, one TA03 and the other a Nitro TG-10.... but I have already busted a hob and a sus arm on my lab..... the first was totally my fault but the second was due to interference casueing my car to smack on the board....

I actually like rebuilding my car and setting it up more cos I am better at that than my driving!!!!

The other opinion is get a plastic Tamiya F1, they are bloody quick with the standard Mabuchi, and not much maintanence as long as you don't smash it up too often, but they can reall take a beating I must tell you cos I had a head on with one with my RCLAB at full speed.... no damage to both!!!
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Old 12-11-2001, 05:26 AM   #18
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I am lucky that one of my friend is kindly enough to take care of the comm. trueing job.

However, I still need to assemble and setup the car. It is one area that we cannot count on others. Only ourselves know how we like our cars handle. It is a long way to learn how to assemble and setup the car properly. The fun really come with pain. Still, I'm trying my best to keep the pain to minimal.

Actually, I have a tamiya F1. They are pretty fast and maintenance is very low. The sad new is that they are not popular in my area.
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Old 12-11-2001, 06:06 AM   #19
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I think the Tamiya F1 are great... they are fast from teh box, you dont need loads of options, and are bloody challenging to drive... and if you can mater that car then you are a pretty damn good driver.....

I think they are not so popular cos they look fragile.... not much to play with mechanically and not much hop up available, cos it doesnt need it......

and you need dry weather...... but hey what a trainer!!!

Last night I raced againse a TA02 fully hopped up, and with a 11T motor.... and I kept up with it no probs except in the turns.... but that was my fault!!!

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Old 12-11-2001, 06:11 AM   #20
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I was driving a 9 year old Tamiya F1 with no hop ups at all!!!!

By the way Wlf, which part of HK do you come from?
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Old 12-12-2001, 07:44 AM   #21
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Oh, a 9 years old F1? If all tourer switched to F1, most of the RC car manufacturer may force out of business (except the tire supplier). Actually, I think that F1 are very good for beginner, cause they don't need huge amount of money and effort to drive fast. Besides, they are RWD, which can train up their skill better.

I lived in Tuen Mun, a large residential area inside New Territories. (Hong Kong can be divided into: Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and New Territories)
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Old 12-12-2001, 08:13 AM   #22
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Wolf....

...... I just sometimes use the F1 to train my throttle finger!!! Right on they are fast and cheap to run,.... I fully recommend it for that reason....

.... I left HK in 1986 ..... I used to live in Sai Kung.... love to see it again.... my friend runs a model shop in Kowloon then...
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Old 12-12-2001, 08:22 AM   #23
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where exactly are they plugging the capacitor up
on the receiver? are they using the extra channel?
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Old 12-12-2001, 08:42 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by pro3racing
where exactly are they plugging the capacitor up
on the receiver? are they using the extra channel?
From the ESC, I pulled out the positive and negative female pins from the plug and soldered the small cap to them. Putting them back in to the plug can be a problem if there is too much solder used or if the radial leads from the cap are too short.

Plan it to where you feel comfortable the female pins will go back into the plug. Don't burn the ESC wires!

There are other ways of applying a cap if my way is troublesome. I believe JesseT mentioned an alternative method.
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Last edited by RCCadet; 12-12-2001 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 12-12-2001, 12:39 PM   #25
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yeah i got that i run the gmv12xc with a cap
but i was wondering about the cap on the receiver
where are you guys putting it? on the extra channel or what?
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Old 12-12-2001, 01:10 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by pro3racing
yeah i got that i run the gmv12xc with a cap
but i was wondering about the cap on the receiver
where are you guys putting it? on the extra channel or what?
I know you use a cap between the battery and ESC, I placed my cap between the ESC and RX. You must want to attach it like JesseT mentioned below. I have not seen anyone place one between the RX and servo.
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Old 12-12-2001, 01:20 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCCadet


I know you use a cap between the battery and ESC, I placed my cap between the ESC and RX. You must want to attach it like JesseT mentioned below. I have not seen anyone place one between the RX and servo.
are you using 2 caps now or just the one?
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Old 12-12-2001, 07:51 PM   #28
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Pro3racing, the ones that I've seen were connected to the receiver on the bec terminals in the the positive and negative poles... Take a look at this months issue of car action magazine Mr.Kinwald himself has it connected to his bec terminal,correct me if I'm wrong...
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Old 12-12-2001, 10:34 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by pro3racing

are you using 2 caps now or just the one?
I'm using one small 4700uF 16v cap. Use the example mentioned by HyRev-R.
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Old 12-13-2001, 05:39 AM   #30
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Hi Sonneteer,

Sai Kung is a very good place to live, quite, sea view and close to urban area.

It's too good that your friend run a model shop! However, if my friend run a model shop, I would broke! There are too much temptation.
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