4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
07-27-2010, 08:19 PM
#9376
I see the price on few HK sites have dropped by $50+. Is there a revised kit coming out with Lipo chassis?
07-27-2010, 10:52 PM
#9377
Can anyone tell me if this 3 racing part will fit the tamiya spool
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...h=595_744_1230
also im after the tamiya blades part number
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...h=595_744_1230
also im after the tamiya blades part number
Last edited by LOSI123; 07-27-2010 at 11:04 PM.
07-27-2010, 11:56 PM
#9378
Can anyone tell me if this 3 racing part will fit the tamiya spool
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...h=595_744_1230
also im after the tamiya blades part number
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...h=595_744_1230
also im after the tamiya blades part number
the 3 racing outdrives works fine
07-28-2010, 12:22 AM
#9379
Hi Paul,
The part numbers are:
53890 Swing shaft protectors (CVD Blades) 4 per pack
51342 Alum Diff Joint Set (diff outdrives with 4 blades)
9804388 Spool Outdrives (delrin part)
Any 5 digit part number is a regular aftermarket Tamiya part. The part numbers starting with 9 and have 7 numbers in it are kit part numbers and are 'normally' a special order through the Japanese stores.
HTH
07-29-2010, 04:39 AM
#9381
Tech Regular
When you put shims under your arms you are raising the roll center, and when you put shims under your camber links you are lowering the roll center...
To lower the roll center you would raise the inner camber link position and lower the front arm. You could also lower the outside camber link as well.
Lower
• More on-throttle steering.
• Car is less responsive.
• More weight transfer at front of car.
• Better on smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners.
To raise the roll center you would lower the inner camber link and raise the front arm. You could also raise the outside camber link as well.
Higher
• Less on-throttle steering.
• Car is more responsive.
• Less weight transfer at front of car.
• Use in high grip conditions to avoid traction rolling.
• Use on tracks with quick direction changes (chicanes).
To lower the roll center you would raise the inner camber link position and lower the front arm. You could also lower the outside camber link as well.
Lower
• More on-throttle steering.
• Car is less responsive.
• More weight transfer at front of car.
• Better on smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners.
To raise the roll center you would lower the inner camber link and raise the front arm. You could also raise the outside camber link as well.
Higher
• Less on-throttle steering.
• Car is more responsive.
• Less weight transfer at front of car.
• Use in high grip conditions to avoid traction rolling.
• Use on tracks with quick direction changes (chicanes).
Hi,
this message is very useful, I wish to receive more information like this in order to understand better what I can do on the 416we set-up in a good manner. Otherwise I changed everything without knowing the effect.
I am asking all of you to integrated more information on the Artwork's topic.
Artwork, Do you have any other suggetions, please?
thanks
07-29-2010, 04:51 AM
#9382
Hi,
this message is very useful, I wish to receive more information like this in order to understand better what I can do on the 416we set-up in a good manner. Otherwise I changed everything without knowing the effect.
I am asking all of you to integrated more information on the Artwork's topic.
Artwork, Do you have any other suggetions, please?
thanks
this message is very useful, I wish to receive more information like this in order to understand better what I can do on the 416we set-up in a good manner. Otherwise I changed everything without knowing the effect.
I am asking all of you to integrated more information on the Artwork's topic.
Artwork, Do you have any other suggetions, please?
thanks
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=2525
07-29-2010, 05:54 AM
#9383
Tech Regular
Thanks CraigM, the rc/car basement's book for TC.
07-31-2010, 06:15 AM
#9385
08-01-2010, 12:42 PM
#9387
Tech Regular
.
Last edited by Zooberg; 08-02-2010 at 03:37 AM. Reason: .
08-01-2010, 01:16 PM
#9388
this week arrive !
08-01-2010, 11:31 PM
#9389
has anyone tried the Spec R "spring steel" unis yet?
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/spring...16-p-3833.html
it looks like they have pin retainers similar to the TOP pin retainers. I seem to be replacing my uni's a lot to keep the slop out, I'm wondering if these might hold up a bit better than the alloy ones most of us use in the rear
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/spring...16-p-3833.html
it looks like they have pin retainers similar to the TOP pin retainers. I seem to be replacing my uni's a lot to keep the slop out, I'm wondering if these might hold up a bit better than the alloy ones most of us use in the rear
08-02-2010, 12:31 AM
#9390
For the diff plates, do you guys use any adhesive to mount them on the outdrive? (round plates with no flat notches)
I used to put tamiya thread lock but they break loose easily with a 3000kv motor. Then a fellow driver told me to just build them without any adhesive but just grease between the outdrive and the plates.
Then I found the same tip from Jilles Groskamp somewhere:
"When I build a diff I first sandpaper the plates on both sides, normally around 500-1000 sandpaper.
I use Tamiya Grease hard to put between the outdrive and the plate. Of course make the outdrive and plate clean with motor spray."
Wouldn't it slip if its not glued?
I used to put tamiya thread lock but they break loose easily with a 3000kv motor. Then a fellow driver told me to just build them without any adhesive but just grease between the outdrive and the plates.
Then I found the same tip from Jilles Groskamp somewhere:
"When I build a diff I first sandpaper the plates on both sides, normally around 500-1000 sandpaper.
I use Tamiya Grease hard to put between the outdrive and the plate. Of course make the outdrive and plate clean with motor spray."
Wouldn't it slip if its not glued?