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Old 01-04-2010, 10:06 AM
  #7696  
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Hello, I have herd that people are switching from the stock 44mm blue aluminum axel to the 46mm steel axel up front. I just built my car and the only thing I did't like was that when I put the arm all the way up with the 46mm, it touches the spool . Anybody that has done this change, has anyone ever had a problem with this change while using it. I believe people said they made this change to save the spool, as the axel hung out to close to the end and it would brake the ends. Let me know please don't want to put it out there if some has already experience a bad problem with this, thanks. Sorry the only reason I ask is not because it touches. It actually travels pretty smooth around the inner circle of the end of the spool . The only thing I don't like. That when it is spinning, the part where it gets to the split. Where the actual axel sits .When it get to that part it kind of jumps. Sorry tried to explain as best as I could . If someone could please help I'd apreciate, thanks.
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:22 AM
  #7697  
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I ran the 46mm steel axles with with 1D/1D blocks up front, but when I went back to the 1C/1C I switched to 44mm steel axles to keep them from binding on the spool.
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:36 AM
  #7698  
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So then I was right with the stock 1c I will have a binding issue with these axels. Ok then I will look for some steel 44 because I don't think this pretty blue ones will last to long with a spool upfront. thanks
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Old 01-04-2010, 11:30 AM
  #7699  
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Originally Posted by saleen95
So then I was right with the stock 1c I will have a binding issue with these axels. Ok then I will look for some steel 44 because I don't think this pretty blue ones will last to long with a spool upfront. thanks
its like a freaking joke, if you just look at them wrong they will break or bend. Its the softest aluminum man has created, the steel on the other hand is actually quite nice and at only $8.20/pair its very affordable.
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Old 01-04-2010, 11:37 AM
  #7700  
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I need an fdr of 10.5 for a 3.5 velocity. With the 105 I would need a 21T 0.4... Does Tamiya make a pinion that small in 0.4 pitch?
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Old 01-04-2010, 11:55 AM
  #7701  
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sixtifour
pitc
will
work
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:10 PM
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[QUOTE=Davzone;6804294]hey all!

Can i use the tamiya 51344 rear belt on a 416we?
i didn't fint how many tooth it has and the we
are they the same?[/QUOTE

Yup, the WE belts were a different material to the original cars, but had the same number of teeth.
Won't work with an X though, too short.

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Old 01-04-2010, 12:15 PM
  #7703  
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Originally Posted by saleen95
So then I was right with the stock 1c I will have a binding issue with these axels. Ok then I will look for some steel 44 because I don't think this pretty blue ones will last to long with a spool upfront. thanks
IMO (and Jiles', if you watch his videos...), you won't get any binding issues with the 46mm driveshafts. You won't get that amount of travel whilst the car is going round the track...
I've been running the 46mm steels for a while now, and only in a very big hit did I actually break an outdrive, where as before with the 44's, would regularly break them.

Or, too put it another way, if it's good enough for a TRF team driver, it's good enough for me

One thing that should be mentioned to ensure smooth spool operation, is too ream out the outdrive a little using a 6mm dia drill bit from the driveshaft end. Just ensures that the driveshaft moves up and down easily.

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Old 01-04-2010, 12:20 PM
  #7704  
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Originally Posted by Raman
I need an fdr of 10.5 for a 3.5 velocity. With the 105 I would need a 21T 0.4... Does Tamiya make a pinion that small in 0.4 pitch?
Yes they do, http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53101
But you need a WE or X motor bulkhead to fit it with a 105 spur.
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:38 PM
  #7705  
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Thanks for the link and 64p... suggestion

Mine is a WE.. I also have a bunch of 0.4 spurs in 112, 120, & 128 from my old TA04 TRF.. Going to see if they'll fit, have a feeling only 112 will
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:38 PM
  #7706  
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Originally Posted by TryHard
IMO (and Jiles', if you watch his videos...), you won't get any binding issues with the 46mm driveshafts. You won't get that amount of travel whilst the car is going round the track...
I've been running the 46mm steels for a while now, and only in a very big hit did I actually break an outdrive, where as before with the 44's, would regularly break them.

Or, too put it another way, if it's good enough for a TRF team driver, it's good enough for me

One thing that should be mentioned to ensure smooth spool operation, is too ream out the outdrive a little using a 6mm dia drill bit from the driveshaft end. Just ensures that the driveshaft moves up and down easily.

HiH
Ed
Yeah, I did think about that as well . I wondered weather the arm would even bottom out . I don't think it will either till I crash. That will probably be were I end up getting some binding and probably get it cought on the spool. Oh well, I think I am going to just give it a shot. But what your saying is that the 44 mm don't go in as much and I'll be breaking the outdrives anyways correct, thanks.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:08 PM
  #7707  
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Originally Posted by saleen95
Yeah, I did think about that as well . I wondered weather the arm would even bottom out . I don't think it will either till I crash. That will probably be were I end up getting some binding and probably get it cought on the spool. Oh well, I think I am going to just give it a shot. But what your saying is that the 44 mm don't go in as much and I'll be breaking the outdrives anyways correct, thanks.
what about yokomo 45.5mm shafts would they work.

parts numbers i have found
YOK-BD-010F Yokomo BD5 Front Universal Shaft 45.5mm
YOK-BD-010455 Yokomo BD5 Universal Bone 45.5mm

Last edited by rwmjd007; 01-04-2010 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:06 PM
  #7708  
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Never going to do business with them again.. Ordered 10 pairs of Sorex tires, received one, no reply to email or messages. When I did a chargeback on my card I got a threatening letter from them saying to cancel it.
Fair 'nuff. Only ordered the once from them, and it was fine. A possible alternative is a Tamiya part: 53970 Ball Differential Protective Seal. Doesn't explicitly list the 416, but looks pretty close and may be easier to source.

Phil.
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:44 PM
  #7709  
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I'm sure I ran B/B up front with the 46mm swing shafts and had no issue. I ran C/C for AGES without any binding issues so I wouldn't be worried.

Originally Posted by PDR
A possible alternative is a Tamiya part: 53970 Ball Differential Protective Seal. Doesn't explicitly list the 416, but looks pretty close and may be easier to source.
They are similar but the hole in the middle is much larger so it doesn't seal as well and more gunk gets in. It's really easy to cut your own just like the jaad ones though, I've been doing this for a while now since I cant seem to order from precision anymore
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Old 01-05-2010, 12:17 AM
  #7710  
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Originally Posted by CraigM
I'm sure I ran B/B up front with the 46mm swing shafts and had no issue. I ran C/C for AGES without any binding issues so I wouldn't be worried.


They are similar but the hole in the middle is much larger so it doesn't seal as well and more gunk gets in. It's really easy to cut your own just like the jaad ones though, I've been doing this for a while now since I cant seem to order from precision anymore
you can get all ghetto and use painter's tape. The inside radius is 7.3mm, and the outside radius is 18.3mm. I re-used them for three rebuilds already, and painter's tape happens to be blue too
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