SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

i was using Yokomo/AE ballcups but you have to use HB/HPI ballstuds.

Stein Tumert

I know that...but we all use short arms on the 416 as well.

Hebiki said the WE came with 44mm which is incorrect as it came with 42mm at the rear.

Most people here run XA and E blocks at the rear (3 degree toe in). I do that and use the 44mm on my 416 (with short arms), but it is very tight and have to shave of some material on the plastic protector for the swing shaft (which leads to the plastic breaking faster).


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Blueman Austria

Hy there!

I rebuilded my Dampers a few weeks ago, and changed the standard O-rings to the blue "competition" TRF O-rings.
During that i noticed that they are a bit smaler over all compared to the transparent ones.

After one day racing (8 batterys) i noticed that they leaking damperoil very strong!!!
I read then that tamiya advice to shim the o rings.

Now my question: Have anybody expirience with these blue TRF damper O-rings?
With wich amount of shims is the leaking Problem fixed?

Greetings Blueman

lyoha

WE came with 44mm at the front and 42mm at the rear.

I was using X-ray ball ends with bolt through balls all around.

Stein Tumert

Correct.
We were talking about the rear only in this case...


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Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Well after a couple of weeks of running the ECS parts I'm sad to say that one of the pins finally broke. This was running with a 17.5 only the entire time. The pins never came out as the shrink wrap worked very well.

I did notice that the outdrives that I ran (415 white plastic) seem to have stood up better than the 416 black units do, as I have hardly any noticeable notching in these compared to the stock units that seem to be worn a lot more with the same amount of track time. The only bad part about this mod, is that you have to file down the outer aluminum cups and trim a small amount of flash of the bearing side lip to get just a little free play in them.

lyoha

JGH talking about 46mm at the front on his WE.

Stein Tumert

Yes he does... that is then a replacement of the original 44mm (front) that comes with the WE kit.

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Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I do, but it is based on Sorex tires. I've been running off-road lately, haven't been on their on-road track in months. Going to practice sometime this week and then run their grand re-opening 2 day race this weekend which will basically let me know how much time I'm spending there next week working on setups

Just a note, my setups are generally un-driveable for most, very little rear grip. Corey Lewis has a setup on the TRF site that is a lot safer, but I can post mine once I get it figured out as well if you'd like.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

.2mm is a good starting point to try. Took care of the leaking for me.

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

ditch those TRF O-rings and use HPI #6820 clear P-3 silicone O-ring. $1 for a pack of 8 and they last forever, perfect fitment.

entitymugenmtx

iTrader: (85)

Where do you add the .2mm shims so you can take care of the leak. The only thing that I shimmed was the shock shaft I put 0.1 shim under the piston and one on top of it.

Blueman Austria

You add the shim (i think) between the two delrin bushings in the Damper cylinder so that the O-ring is more squeezed.
I have already ordered them. You need the 4mm ones 53586 i think.

Greetz Blueman

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Unless you build them as the WE method, where the O-ring is between the spacers... so then it goes against the shock body and upper spacer

HiH
Ed

entitymugenmtx

iTrader: (85)

When building my shocks there are two bushing that have groves, I wanted to know which way they go on, towards the o-ring or towards the aluminum side