4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
06-08-2009, 10:33 PM
#5641
Hi Phil,
B if i put 0.5 on the front and 0 extra on the rear what will this do ??
-> do you mean make them both 1mm total? This will take away your anti dive (less initial steering, more weight transfer to front under brakes) and also raise the front roll centre (less steering)
B if i put 0.5 on the front and 0 extra on the rear what will this do ??
-> do you mean make them both 1mm total? This will take away your anti dive (less initial steering, more weight transfer to front under brakes) and also raise the front roll centre (less steering)
i run C C at the moment and it seams to push the front end on a bit ...
->this would be from the high front RC, the front tends to skate in corners when you have a too high front RC compared to the rear. Try going to 0 under the front-front block and 0.5 under the front-rear, with 5mm of spacers under the front camber link on the bulkhead. You should also have 0.5mm under both rear blocks, and rear camber links flat
->this would be from the high front RC, the front tends to skate in corners when you have a too high front RC compared to the rear. Try going to 0 under the front-front block and 0.5 under the front-rear, with 5mm of spacers under the front camber link on the bulkhead. You should also have 0.5mm under both rear blocks, and rear camber links flat
what is the camber link ???
sorry technical terms still confuse me LOL
06-08-2009, 10:52 PM
#5642
that will give you 1/2 a degree of front kick up, also known as prodive. Basically the opposite to anti dive, the car will transfer more weight forward under brakes. It will also soak up bumps better. I've never felt the need to use it with my 416, even on bumpy tracks
D/D on the front will sort that out, make sure you have the 1mm wheel spacers in the front
That is definitely the cause of your understeer problem. 0.5mm under both rear blocks (xa/d is what I run there), 3mm under the camber link on the hub side, and 4mm on the bulkhead side (aka the base asphalt setup)
The camber links are the turnbuckles front and rear that you adjust the camber of the wheels with. The amount of spacers under the ball screws they connect to determines the roll centre
D/D on the front will sort that out, make sure you have the 1mm wheel spacers in the front
That is definitely the cause of your understeer problem. 0.5mm under both rear blocks (xa/d is what I run there), 3mm under the camber link on the hub side, and 4mm on the bulkhead side (aka the base asphalt setup)
The camber links are the turnbuckles front and rear that you adjust the camber of the wheels with. The amount of spacers under the ball screws they connect to determines the roll centre
06-09-2009, 05:07 AM
#5643
Ok
So are you saying that a C/C front combo offers more grip than 1C/1C ?
And the 4mm under the rear inner link will give less grip than 3mm ?
Mark M
And the 4mm under the rear inner link will give less grip than 3mm ?
Mark M
06-09-2009, 06:43 AM
#5645
sorry mark it's me being lazy not typing the 1 in
i use 1C 1C and will go to 1D 1D on the front
i have on the front camber spacer the base asphalt set up and rear is 4mm inner and 3 outer i think
base asphalt set up with softer springs and no rear roll bar and 40 oil in the shocks , slightly longer wheel base and 1XA 1D rear ,
car feels good but not as planted as my mates Xray 009 and i want it too and know it can ... i need this half second a lap
06-09-2009, 07:54 AM
#5646
Tech Apprentice
06-09-2009, 08:59 AM
#5648
Tech Apprentice
Whats up Randy, I have only been to the tamiya track. I want to get down to OCRC this week. When are you going to be down there?
see you guys on saturday. 
06-09-2009, 10:01 AM
#5652
Thing is , track size and type determine gear more than speed controls.
Its best to take a conservative guess and check motor temps after 2 mins.
The car comes with a 105 tooth and thats not bad either.
4.8 or 5.0 would be a good start for a 100 foot straight. Divide that by the internal and the spur gear and that will get you in the ball park.
So whats that like a 105/45=4.79. But thats no good for a tight sticky track. you would less gear for it but the 105 should put you in the hunt for that speed control. The SPX ramps up the timing and I would have something like a 108/34=6.53 for a big track.
Only you can prevent forest fires.
06-09-2009, 10:06 AM
#5653
06-09-2009, 10:20 AM
#5655
Apparently sarcasm doesn't convert well in typing.
I am only trying to help what ever person to the best of my ability.
And not knowing which moron is playing games here to waste my time is not what these forums are about. Think about that one for a while okay ?!
