Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#3977
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54137
Enjoy!
#3978
As we all know the 416 and TB03 use the same hubs so....
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54137
Enjoy!
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54137
Enjoy!
#3979
Awe buck Fram! I can't believe my li-pos can't plug in. The fram upper deck is in the way front and back, Not fair man... not fair! tamiya should have made an even better one so I could plug in my batteries, SHEESH
#3980
These uprights for 9mm bearings.
I`m using on my 416WE front and rear uprights from X-ray T2 series. I`m enlarged holes in rear lower arms from 2.6mm to 3mm for X-ray uprights compatibility.
C`est la vie...
I`m using on my 416WE front and rear uprights from X-ray T2 series. I`m enlarged holes in rear lower arms from 2.6mm to 3mm for X-ray uprights compatibility.
C`est la vie...
#3981
TAM53969 = Steel 5x8 ball heads
TAM53968 = Steel 5x5 ball heads
You guys probably know about those already, but in case you don't... They're a lot tougher than their aluminum counterparts, and even seem more so than the long setscrew/ballhead trick.
TAM53968 = Steel 5x5 ball heads
You guys probably know about those already, but in case you don't... They're a lot tougher than their aluminum counterparts, and even seem more so than the long setscrew/ballhead trick.
#3982
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
I've made a modification to the hub that is an easy fix and makes it WAY stronger. Just take a 2.5mm drill bit and drill through the hole where the ballstud mounts on the hub so that it can thread in as far as it needs. This way you don't have to go to the short stud, or cut down the long one.
#3984
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
*shares love*
As for the rear uprights, most people are running 3mm spacers under the outer ball screw so of course the 5mm screws are going to strip the plastic - hell I stripped the top 2mm of thread on my alloy uprights this way. Get some of the 8mm screws (or use the ones off the front inner camber link) and you're problems will be solved
http://www.bittydesign.net/PortaLipoTAMIYA-TRF-ING.htm
The new SMC batteries are too high for the top deck so I've gotta chuck my PPD tray out for one of these too
#3985
That's why I went with the 416. I came in here, asked a few questions, and all the guns that know their stuff back to front came out and answered them straight away. I'm definitely faster than I would be otherwise thanks to this community
*shares love*
Having run the car solidly for 6 months now on a track that's a bit of a car breaker, I've taken out a few more parts than some. C-hubs are the thing that broke most frequently, so like others on here I ditched the carbon filled ones and went with the bendy ones from the TA05-IFS. I haven't broken one since. I also broke one knuckle before going to the square alloy ones, but I'm going back to plastic now to see if they really do give more grip
As for the rear uprights, most people are running 3mm spacers under the outer ball screw so of course the 5mm screws are going to strip the plastic - hell I stripped the top 2mm of thread on my alloy uprights this way. Get some of the 8mm screws (or use the ones off the front inner camber link) and you're problems will be solved
Bummer! Pick yourself up a bitty design lipo tray
http://www.bittydesign.net/PortaLipoTAMIYA-TRF-ING.htm
The new SMC batteries are too high for the top deck so I've gotta chuck my PPD tray out for one of these too
*shares love*
Having run the car solidly for 6 months now on a track that's a bit of a car breaker, I've taken out a few more parts than some. C-hubs are the thing that broke most frequently, so like others on here I ditched the carbon filled ones and went with the bendy ones from the TA05-IFS. I haven't broken one since. I also broke one knuckle before going to the square alloy ones, but I'm going back to plastic now to see if they really do give more grip
As for the rear uprights, most people are running 3mm spacers under the outer ball screw so of course the 5mm screws are going to strip the plastic - hell I stripped the top 2mm of thread on my alloy uprights this way. Get some of the 8mm screws (or use the ones off the front inner camber link) and you're problems will be solved
Bummer! Pick yourself up a bitty design lipo tray
http://www.bittydesign.net/PortaLipoTAMIYA-TRF-ING.htm
The new SMC batteries are too high for the top deck so I've gotta chuck my PPD tray out for one of these too
#3986
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
By the sounds of it though, it's highly possibly Tam have changed supplies for their carbon plates, possibly going with a lower modulus carbon fibre and/or different internal lay-up.
HiH
Ed
#3987
#3988
What LiPo? I've got the TP 40C's in mine, and made weight, no problem. The top deck does get a bit close to the balancing plug (I wish they'd put them out the same side as the power like SMC) but there's just enough clearance to bend it down, and tie it up with the tape that's holding the battery in. I put a little electrical tape on the top deck by those wires just in case it comes loose, I'd rather have them not grind and short out.
Unfortunately, getting batteries with internal plugs to fit can be hit or miss.
As for parts breakage, with the soft IFS hubs (which give a TON of steering), the only thing I break on occasion is knuckles. I could use aluminum ones I guess, but I don't mind if they break once in a great while, and the parts are pretty cheap. I don't have trouble with rear hubs anymore, I just went to the longer ball studs like someone else mentioned. Been on the same set for ages now.
DO get the steel CVD's up front. :-D
I sure wish someone made a super hard bumper for this car. Anybody?
Unfortunately, getting batteries with internal plugs to fit can be hit or miss.
As for parts breakage, with the soft IFS hubs (which give a TON of steering), the only thing I break on occasion is knuckles. I could use aluminum ones I guess, but I don't mind if they break once in a great while, and the parts are pretty cheap. I don't have trouble with rear hubs anymore, I just went to the longer ball studs like someone else mentioned. Been on the same set for ages now.
DO get the steel CVD's up front. :-D
I sure wish someone made a super hard bumper for this car. Anybody?
#3989
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
I gotta admit though, I like the car better w/ the Sorexes.
Question for everyone else: Where can I buy a new style lower deck?!? You think the new batt position will really make a difference if I'm running Li-Po? I'm strapping weight everywhere on the car anyway...