TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Actually there are only two types.

The A, B, C, etc blocks are from the TB Evo4, and are 1mm higher than the 1A, 1B, 1C etc. The 1XA, 1XB (refered to as 'X series') are narrower versions of the 1A, 1B, etc. As Toughbeard has mentioned, theres a chart on my site that details what toe angles all the blocks give, plus a more detailed description of the blocks.

The '1' series of blocks are the ones that are most commonly used, but most people (myself include) tend to write these down without the 1... hence some of the confusion. Generally though, if someone says they are using XB/D, they tend to mean 1XB/1D.

HiH
Ed

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

http://www.redrc.net/2008/06/tamiya-...c3/#more-10071

anyone know if the battery brace fits the standard chassis? also when it'll be available

I broke a steering knuckle over the weekend. Absolutely spewing because it knocked me out of the meet. I thought it was a c-hub which I have plenty of spares of but no. boo

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Aluminum steering blocks + plastic c-hubs (TA05-IFS style) = indestructible. The plastic c-hubs flex a lot, but it actually seems to help in lower traction.

teabag

iTrader: (3)

Where is the chart on the website? Can't seem to locate it.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

http://www.thard.co.uk/viewforum.php...1f4709fe7ed21d

Eirik

Hey Ed,

Did you ever get the e-mail with my setup?
Have not heard from you in a while mate....

Later,
Eirik

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

YGEM(ail)

omoser

does anyone know the part number for the replacement cups for the 416 spool? Will the old 415 cups (the white ones, 9804268) fit?

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

2.5mm lower deck

Arnold B

Number is 9804268, having problems with them.
Broke 4 in 3 weeks, not indoor not hitting any curbs, they just brake in mid corner using element 19t.
Anyone else have this problem.

Arnold

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

we used MOD BL motor not have this case !

Juanchoyo

Hi, this is a photo from the TB V MS
http://www.rceasy.com/wp-content/upl...2107photo5.jpg
But this car uses the same suspension parts as 416 and the question is: Do you change rear toe by chagign the alum. long part that holds suspension shafts?? Or change the rear hubs like in a mini? How's this blue alum part named?

Would this ride be really good (416) to run 10.5 and 6 cells? Or I'm better going with TB 5MS?

Thanks

StickyFingaz

iTrader: (17)

Hey guys,

Has anyone experimented with raising the differential/spool using the cams. What does this achieve?

-Martin

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

416 works very well in 10.5/LiPo... it's the class I largely run in.

The part you are refering to is the suspension blocks. You'll see them quoted on here as 1D, 1E etc. They are how you adjust toe-in. The hub are 0° toe-in.

HiH
Ed

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

It achieves a locked drivetrain. Unfortunately the way the bulkhead is designed, if you flip the cams, the outdrive rub the bottom of the bulkhead and lock up the drivetrain