Azman Azam

iTrader: (3)

hi,

I hve sum problem with my car. Had a shakedown with e car seems 2 be fair. But i have this problem of the car wanting to keep on rotating (loose) fr mid corner to exiting the corner. Especially at the 180's. What makes its worse if i tap on power to exit the corner it'll do a 360 on me.

Was running mods brushless 3.5R, outdoor aspshalt, mazda 6, droop fr (5) Rr (4). Springs fr (white) Rr (blue). Running spool of course. Tried leaning the rear shock, anti-dive, kickup, slightly better but still uncomfortable. I want the car to have more side grip. What else shd i try? Suggestions?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Just use the D block that comes with the 416, as it is setup to use only 3mm of shims, much like the X series. then just use an old 415 D on the rear.

HiH
Ed

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

First off, if your still running the roll bars, take them off. Otherwise, softer springs would be a deffient start, White/Blue sounds too stiff for outdoor asphalt, especially if your running the bars as well. Try the kit blue/Yellow to start.

HiH
Ed

Szimon

Hi all,

could anyone help me with spool for 416?
What should I buy or do?

Thanks

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

maybe tomorrow arrive !

Pijjetrf

Hello to u all

I will also be the proud owner of a 416 late crimbo pressent for the other half with the help of ed (cherrs ed) i have been getting some spares and electrics togetherfor it again cherrs ed for the help I woudl like help with spacers though ?? looking at some of your setup sheets i understand most of it but am not sure what spacers i would need to get to help tune my car when it comes are they tamiya parts if so could you tell me the number so i can get some ready i have circled the one i mean on ed's carpet wars sheet below hope you don't mind ed. Also what is diffrence between arm spacers and mount spacers they seem to go in the same place or am I having a blonde moment ??

Pijjetrf

Sorry forgot to add setup sheet sorry

Apex

iTrader: (51)

Anyone know the part number for the EVO arms that Jilles used on his DHI setup? There are so many different EVO kits so I just want to make sure I order the correct arms. Also, I'm assuming the kit arms are mainly used for asphalt racing, correct?

Stein Tumert

The short suspension have the number 53928 (will fit on TRF416 / TRF415MS and higher / Evo5 and TA05 with reversible / TA05IFS)

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

right...
Sus. mount spacers go under the blocks. This basically is the coarsest method of changing the roll centre of the car. More spacers = higher roll center. Also allows the adjustment of kick-up/anti-dive on the front, and anti-squat on the rear.

Wheel spacers are the shims that go outside the wheel hex. Help to alter the track (width) of the car.

Sus. Arm Spacers are used to alter the wheel base of the car, so are on the hinge pin. By moving the shims around you can lengthen/shorten the wheelbase, or change the weight distribution by moving both F&R arms the same amount forward/backward. Keep it as kit for now though... or if your running D/D blocks on the front, 0.5mm back on the front (2mm behind the arm rather than 2.5).

The little spacer pointing to the rear hub (just labelled Spacer) is another wheelbase adjustment, but on the outside of the arms. Not played with this setting yet.

Steering spacer; used to alter the ackerman of the car. More shims = less ackerman (wheels turn more parallel), I believe, though I could be wrong. Someone on here will correct me other wise :P

As for part numbers... any 3mm spacers will work for all but the wheel spacers. Tamiya do offer a set with a range of thickness' (Part #TAM53539 I think), so maybe worth grabbing a couple of sets.
Wheel spacers I wouldn't worry about too much, the 416 comes with 4 of both 0.5 and 1mm, which is all you really need.

However, tamiya do offer some suspension block spacers to make it easier to change the shims under the blocks, as they just slide in. Part# are TAM53932 for the 0.5mm, and TAM53933 for the 1mm spacers.

HiH
Ed

Vicko

iTrader: (14)

so anyone tryed to fit the cyclone metal front C-hubs on the 416 yets?
or any other types of metal c-hubs?

Azman Azam

iTrader: (3)

Should I just take the rear roll bars off or both?

What difference would it make on handling if we shimed under the balljoints as compared to under the suspension mounts for roll center?

What would Kick-up/Antidive setup & also anti-squat gives on car handling?

Changes on the Steering Ackerman would need me to adjust the shims behind the balljoints on the steering rack or the ball joints on the steering knuckle? What would more/less ackerman give?

ammaramira

Hi Fazli...
If you are free on this 23rd .. please come to Titiwangsa Track . We will be practicing for the Malaysian National Championship this Sunday. Please come & join us..

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Just drop a rate all round, so take the rear off, and go to soft on the front

Shimming under the ball joints affects both roll centre, and camber change. The roll centre change is less for the same amount of shims than for under the suspension blocks (on the 415, 0.5mm of shims under the suspension blocks resulted in a 1mm change in RC, 0.5mm under the ball joints changed it by 0.4mm). More shims = lower RC, but also less camber change in the front end (link is flatter). Less shims = higher RC, but also more camber change (link is more angled). In all honesty, I tend to ignore the camber change affect (that can be tuned more effectively by the camber link position on the bulkhead), and just use the shims as a fine tune for roll centre.

Anti-dive resists transfering the weight forward, which helps the car corner flatter (this has been covered in more detail.post #1069 by Apex) It also reduces the castor of the car, improving inital turn-in.
Kick-up is the reverse of anti-dive (in affect, pro-dive if you will). It also helps the car cope better with bumps on a track.
Anti-squat is similar to anti-dive, but it works on the rear, resisting weight transfer backwards, and makes the rear seem to corner flatter.

Shims on the steering rack. If you add shims on the knuckle, then all your chaning is the bump steer characteristics.
Ackerman, for me, is something I'm still trying to fully figure out, but having asked a number of top racers over here regarding the change (and played around with it myself), more shims (link further forward) seems to give the car more steering in general. One thing I have noticed over the last few years, is that the succesful cars indoors on carpet all seem to have very flat steering links, with minimal angle, so less ackerman.
On the 415, I did play with moving the link on the steering hub. Indoors I prefered the feel with the link in the back hole, as it seemed to smooth out the reaction, whereas outdoors I favoured the front hole, as it seemed to make the car more reactive initially to steering inputs.

HiH
Ed

Pijjetrf

hi ed thanks for the info will have a look hope you did not mind me using your setup sheet
p.s have sent u a p.m