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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 01-19-2008, 03:44 AM
  #1066  
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Originally Posted by OleC
Jilles, thank you for taking time to answer my questions regarding the 416 at the DHI cup! It was great watching the finals!

I use the standard setup for the 416, but with the spool. White/Blue springs. Tamiya green damper oil (500cps i belive).
Any suggestions to make the car a little less agressive? (a little less turn-in, but without sacrificing steering at mid/end of corner)
I was thinking about having less spacers at the ball studs at the center steering bracket (that would be less ackermann, right?)

Suggestions anyone?
Also try widening the front track... if you want to keep the mid corner, keep some arm sweep, so D/C or C/B.

Personally, I would have thought the anti dive will make the car more aggresive, and take away mid corner... as it also has an affect on castor (IIRC, 0.5mm under the rear block results in about 0.8° less castor)... As I understand, less castor = more agressive turn-in, and less mid-corner.
Maybe some kick-up (shim under front blocks) would be a better option with the kit (B/A) blocks?

HiH
Ed
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Old 01-19-2008, 05:30 AM
  #1067  
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still about chasis tweak, i found that the chasis is not tweak originally. only after full assembly of the car i found that the lower chasis doesnot flat on setting board. what make it tweak is after i install the upper chasis(/deck?).

if i install the upper chasis the last i found that it does not fit. the space is smaller to fit the upper chasis. that s why if i push it hard it did fit but make the lower chasis tweak@not flat. my question should i modified the upper chasis? maybe do something at the edge to make it fit freely.
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Old 01-19-2008, 06:48 AM
  #1068  
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Originally Posted by fadzli
still about chasis tweak, i found that the chasis is not tweak originally. only after full assembly of the car i found that the lower chasis doesnot flat on setting board. what make it tweak is after i install the upper chasis(/deck?).

if i install the upper chasis the last i found that it does not fit. the space is smaller to fit the upper chasis. that s why if i push it hard it did fit but make the lower chasis tweak@not flat. my question should i modified the upper chasis? maybe do something at the edge to make it fit freely.
Yup, just shave a little material off either end until it fits easily into the car. A number of people on hear have had the same issue... did you superglue around the edges of the top deck? The tolerances are very tight in that area, so I had to remove all the glue I put on.

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Old 01-19-2008, 06:51 AM
  #1069  
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Anti-dive is used alot in foam tire racing on the front end when traction is high. It makes the car feel less aggressive under braking and really launch out of the middle of the turn. This setting is used more in mod racing since braking is needed. It seems to allow the driver to brake later and get on the throttle earlier with the front end pulling the car out of the turn. It also seems to make the car stay flatter in the turn. All I can say is give it a try and see if it works for you.

I think you can really see this working on Viktor's car on the DHI videos. In the 180's before the straight you can see Viktor's car really round the turn very tight and then snap out of the turn nicely.
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:17 AM
  #1070  
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i dont understand anti dive. can explain? which part? what and how to set?
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by fadzli
i dont understand anti dive. can explain? which part? what and how to set?
http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...ers/index.html
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Apex
Anti-dive is used alot in foam tire racing on the front end when traction is high. It makes the car feel less aggressive under braking and really launch out of the middle of the turn. This setting is used more in mod racing since braking is needed. It seems to allow the driver to brake later and get on the throttle earlier with the front end pulling the car out of the turn. It also seems to make the car stay flatter in the turn. All I can say is give it a try and see if it works for you.

I think you can really see this working on Viktor's car on the DHI videos. In the 180's before the straight you can see Viktor's car really round the turn very tight and then snap out of the turn nicely.
I'm not disagring on the affect of Anti-Dive... I'm just saying you also need to consider that when adjusting it the way we do on the tamiyas, you also need to realise that the castor is being adjusted too.

I personally have had good results from running anti-dive with a spool, so I know it works...

Ed
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Old 01-19-2008, 10:08 AM
  #1073  
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So, what breaks on the 416? Looking to buy one later on in the year, and I'm wondering what breaks easily, so I can buy the spares when I get the kit
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:54 AM
  #1074  
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Caster Blocks!
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:55 AM
  #1075  
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Originally Posted by TryHard
I'm not disagring on the affect of Anti-Dive... I'm just saying you also need to consider that when adjusting it the way we do on the tamiyas, you also need to realise that the castor is being adjusted too.

I personally have had good results from running anti-dive with a spool, so I know it works...

Ed
Ed - Understood...I'm not trying argue either. Just trying to explain what I've experienced when using anti-dive in the past. I no longer run foam on carpet so rubber tires on carpet is a whole new learning experience. Cheers, Greg
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:59 AM
  #1076  
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Originally Posted by rc-car-net
where can we get a spool for the 416 ?

I tested the JP 416 spool today. http://www.racingfactory.fi/shop2/ca...ils.php?p=1765
Perfect fit, supernice finish and high quality delrin outdrives. With this spool the pulley is perfectly aligned with the axle centerline as opposed to the MR spool with the pulley flipped over.
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:02 PM
  #1077  
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Yea, the chubs break easily. Where's some aluminum ones?
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:05 PM
  #1078  
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That's a nice looking spool! I'm going to need one in a few months, hopefully there are some options in the pipeline. I'm guessing spool is the way to go on smallish parking lot tracks while using a 10.5?

I've actually never really messed with a spool. What kind of parts should I stock up on and expect to replace? Anything special I should know?
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Old 01-19-2008, 05:13 PM
  #1079  
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Originally Posted by Dan the Man
So, what breaks on the 416? Looking to buy one later on in the year, and I'm wondering what breaks easily, so I can buy the spares when I get the kit
The few parts you must get are...

front upright knuckles (breaks easy if you knock as much as me)
Rear upright
Front C hubs (breaks easy)
you may want to stock up 1 or 2 or the flanged tubes as well that goes on the bottom of the c hub and front upright, because when they break, you will very likely loose them
rear diff screw (they bend rather easily)
1 or 2 set of suspension arms

and its also good but not must to have a spare front and rear belt.

regarding the spool, will it be suitable for foam tires, medium-high traction medium size track? i've never runned one before and wonder if its worth getting one to try it on..
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Old 01-19-2008, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan the Man
So, what breaks on the 416? Looking to buy one later on in the year, and I'm wondering what breaks easily, so I can buy the spares when I get the kit
The few parts you must get are...

front upright knuckles (breaks easy if you knock as much as me)
Rear upright
Front C hubs (breaks easy)
you may want to stock up 1 or 2 or the flanged tubes as well that goes on the bottom of the c hub and front upright, because when they break, you will very likely loose them
rear diff screw (they bend rather easily)
1 or 2 set of suspension arms

and its also good but not must to have a spare front and rear belt.

regarding the spool, will it be suitable for foam tires, medium-high traction medium size track? i've never runned one before and wonder if its worth getting one to try it on..
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