4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
12-23-2007, 01:46 AM
#706
Tech Master
So I went back to the standard sus arms w/ slop, but came across something on some japanese blog. You can use CA to get rid of the slop in the arms. This is done on primarily on minis.
Get extra thin CA, and dab a LITTLE BIT on to the arm shaft from the INSIDE of the arm. The CA will get sucked into whatever space there is. It will get tight, but you can still move the shaft with pliers(it won't stick on stainless steel). remove any excess CA and you have zero slop now.
Please do this at your own risk. I do not know the long term effects of this mod.
Get extra thin CA, and dab a LITTLE BIT on to the arm shaft from the INSIDE of the arm. The CA will get sucked into whatever space there is. It will get tight, but you can still move the shaft with pliers(it won't stick on stainless steel). remove any excess CA and you have zero slop now.
Please do this at your own risk. I do not know the long term effects of this mod.
12-23-2007, 04:01 AM
#707
where can i get some bearings for my 415 msx mre.either in the uk or hongkong.
i need wheel bearings and also the layshaft bearings. anyone know the bearing sizes?
my new puppy knocked all the bits of the table and 3 bearings have evaporated lol? two layshaft and one wheel bearing?
thanks
i need wheel bearings and also the layshaft bearings. anyone know the bearing sizes?
my new puppy knocked all the bits of the table and 3 bearings have evaporated lol? two layshaft and one wheel bearing?
thanks
Last edited by pug 205 gti; 12-23-2007 at 04:15 AM.
12-23-2007, 05:38 AM
#708
Enquiry
Watz up guyz...
I was wondering what's the biggest 64p spur that can fit on the 416?
Having trouble finding a ratio I need for a 3.5 brushless set-up..
Any feedback is much appreciated.
I was wondering what's the biggest 64p spur that can fit on the 416?
Having trouble finding a ratio I need for a 3.5 brushless set-up..
Any feedback is much appreciated.
12-23-2007, 11:41 AM
#709
Found out something lame.
If you use the short reversible arms on the rear, the right side will have problems. The plastic dog bone protector will hit the diff nut and you can't adjust your camber to spec. You can try to use a wider suspension mount, but you will then be limited to about 1degree of rear toe in. Unless you have a 42mm dog bone (53502) it won't work
BTW, the short sus arm has no slop what so ever. The shaft sits tight into the arm. What happened to you tamiya?
If you use the short reversible arms on the rear, the right side will have problems. The plastic dog bone protector will hit the diff nut and you can't adjust your camber to spec. You can try to use a wider suspension mount, but you will then be limited to about 1degree of rear toe in. Unless you have a 42mm dog bone (53502) it won't work
BTW, the short sus arm has no slop what so ever. The shaft sits tight into the arm. What happened to you tamiya?
12-23-2007, 11:42 AM
#710
The shaft hits the end of the diff bolt, so squeezing the diff spring does nothing to solve his problem.
12-23-2007, 05:13 PM
#712
So I went back to the standard sus arms w/ slop, but came across something on some japanese blog. You can use CA to get rid of the slop in the arms. This is done on primarily on minis.
Get extra thin CA, and dab a LITTLE BIT on to the arm shaft from the INSIDE of the arm. The CA will get sucked into whatever space there is. It will get tight, but you can still move the shaft with pliers(it won't stick on stainless steel). remove any excess CA and you have zero slop now.
Please do this at your own risk. I do not know the long term effects of this mod.
Get extra thin CA, and dab a LITTLE BIT on to the arm shaft from the INSIDE of the arm. The CA will get sucked into whatever space there is. It will get tight, but you can still move the shaft with pliers(it won't stick on stainless steel). remove any excess CA and you have zero slop now.
Please do this at your own risk. I do not know the long term effects of this mod.
12-23-2007, 09:26 PM
#713
12-24-2007, 03:11 AM
#714
12-24-2007, 09:33 AM
#715
Tech Master
Raced the 416 in 23T class yesterday! I kept it box stock, and the impression is great! It turns in really well, almost too much, but the rear stays planted. Once I got used to it, I was blasting through the turns, and got the fastest lap of the day! The biggest factor here are the motor position and chassis flex. The pushed back motor (5mm more than 415) gives better rear traction, and the chassis flex brings out the tire's potentials. I say it is an excellent car for asphalt racing. Need to try out carpet next...
12-24-2007, 09:54 AM
#716
Tech Apprentice
setup
Snydrome,
i ran 2.5mm in the front and 2 mm in the rear. it wasnt on the sheet...my bad
I ran the car at another local track of mine yesterday. It is pretty low grip track with some extremely dangerous boards! The car handled extremely well with the setup i posted on this forum. It seems to me this car works really well in med. to low bite tracks tracks. As for durability it is unbelievable.....i had a couple mishaps with these 90 degree angle boards and never broke a single part the whole day, i did however bend a swing shaft.
My next test for the car will be running it in foam modified/19T at the novak race in a week so i will really get to see how much it has improved! Before i go i plan on doin a comparison with my 415 foam car, so for you guys running foam tires stay tuned for the results.
i ran 2.5mm in the front and 2 mm in the rear. it wasnt on the sheet...my bad
I ran the car at another local track of mine yesterday. It is pretty low grip track with some extremely dangerous boards! The car handled extremely well with the setup i posted on this forum. It seems to me this car works really well in med. to low bite tracks tracks. As for durability it is unbelievable.....i had a couple mishaps with these 90 degree angle boards and never broke a single part the whole day, i did however bend a swing shaft.
My next test for the car will be running it in foam modified/19T at the novak race in a week so i will really get to see how much it has improved! Before i go i plan on doin a comparison with my 415 foam car, so for you guys running foam tires stay tuned for the results.
12-24-2007, 10:11 AM
#717
Cool, thanks. I'll give your setup a try as a starting point in a couple of days, we've got low-grip carpet where I'm racing.
The PDub 415 bumper showed up, and is definitely a big improvement over the stock bumper as far as hardness goes. It required a bit of chopping to make it fit right, but nothing too major. I'm waiting on the kydex part to show up from BRP to see how that does.
The PDub 415 bumper showed up, and is definitely a big improvement over the stock bumper as far as hardness goes. It required a bit of chopping to make it fit right, but nothing too major. I'm waiting on the kydex part to show up from BRP to see how that does.
12-24-2007, 11:18 AM
#718
So these aluminum ball studs... do they break off easily? I'm a little wary of them snapping off in the aluminum bulkheads or steering rack. Has that been a problem? If they do snap, is it flush so it's impossible to extract the broken piece?
I have some of the fluorine ball studs, but in some places, the threads are too short so I can get the length the same as the stock pieces, even with the right number of shims. Most notably, the pieces in the steering rack, and the rear bulkheads.
I have some of the fluorine ball studs, but in some places, the threads are too short so I can get the length the same as the stock pieces, even with the right number of shims. Most notably, the pieces in the steering rack, and the rear bulkheads.
12-24-2007, 11:50 AM
#719
I wouldn't say they are prone to breaking, but it is a somewhat of a weak spot. I would either use steel versions or these in the pics with steel studs. That's what I use and it's nearly bullet proof.
So these aluminum ball studs... do they break off easily? I'm a little wary of them snapping off in the aluminum bulkheads or steering rack. Has that been a problem? If they do snap, is it flush so it's impossible to extract the broken piece?
I have some of the fluorine ball studs, but in some places, the threads are too short so I can get the length the same as the stock pieces, even with the right number of shims. Most notably, the pieces in the steering rack, and the rear bulkheads.
I have some of the fluorine ball studs, but in some places, the threads are too short so I can get the length the same as the stock pieces, even with the right number of shims. Most notably, the pieces in the steering rack, and the rear bulkheads.
Last edited by Core Creations; 07-22-2008 at 05:57 PM.