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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 07-27-2010, 08:19 PM
  #9376  
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I see the price on few HK sites have dropped by $50+. Is there a revised kit coming out with Lipo chassis?
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Old 07-27-2010, 10:52 PM
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Can anyone tell me if this 3 racing part will fit the tamiya spool

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...h=595_744_1230

also im after the tamiya blades part number

Last edited by LOSI123; 07-27-2010 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:56 PM
  #9378  
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Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
Can anyone tell me if this 3 racing part will fit the tamiya spool

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...h=595_744_1230

also im after the tamiya blades part number
hi
the 3 racing outdrives works fine
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:22 AM
  #9379  
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Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
also im after the tamiya blades part number

Hi Paul,

The part numbers are:

53890 Swing shaft protectors (CVD Blades) 4 per pack
51342 Alum Diff Joint Set (diff outdrives with 4 blades)
9804388 Spool Outdrives (delrin part)

Any 5 digit part number is a regular aftermarket Tamiya part. The part numbers starting with 9 and have 7 numbers in it are kit part numbers and are 'normally' a special order through the Japanese stores.

HTH
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Old 07-28-2010, 01:23 AM
  #9380  
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Thanks StevenOlsen & Leonard
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:39 AM
  #9381  
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Originally Posted by artwork View Post
When you put shims under your arms you are raising the roll center, and when you put shims under your camber links you are lowering the roll center...

To lower the roll center you would raise the inner camber link position and lower the front arm. You could also lower the outside camber link as well.
Lower
• More on-throttle steering.
• Car is less responsive.
• More weight transfer at front of car.
• Better on smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners.


To raise the roll center you would lower the inner camber link and raise the front arm. You could also raise the outside camber link as well.
Higher
• Less on-throttle steering.
• Car is more responsive.
• Less weight transfer at front of car.
• Use in high grip conditions to avoid traction rolling.
• Use on tracks with quick direction changes (chicanes).

Hi,

this message is very useful, I wish to receive more information like this in order to understand better what I can do on the 416we set-up in a good manner. Otherwise I changed everything without knowing the effect.

I am asking all of you to integrated more information on the Artwork's topic.

Artwork, Do you have any other suggetions, please?

thanks
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by lynx75 View Post
Hi,

this message is very useful, I wish to receive more information like this in order to understand better what I can do on the 416we set-up in a good manner. Otherwise I changed everything without knowing the effect.

I am asking all of you to integrated more information on the Artwork's topic.

Artwork, Do you have any other suggetions, please?

thanks
Those tips are from the xray setup book

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=2525
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:54 AM
  #9383  
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Those tips are from the xray setup book

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=2525

Thanks CraigM, the rc/car basement's book for TC.
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Old 07-31-2010, 05:08 AM
  #9384  
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Is the 1050 bearing 10x5x4? Or is it 10x5x3?
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Old 07-31-2010, 06:15 AM
  #9385  
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Originally Posted by home13oy75 View Post
Is the 1050 bearing 10x5x4? Or is it 10x5x3?
CMIIW, I think it's 10x5x5
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Old 07-31-2010, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by home13oy75 View Post
Is the 1050 bearing 10x5x4? Or is it 10x5x3?
10x5x4... it's meant for the wheels.
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Old 08-01-2010, 12:42 PM
  #9387  
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.

Last edited by Zooberg; 08-02-2010 at 03:37 AM. Reason: .
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Old 08-01-2010, 01:16 PM
  #9388  
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this week arrive !
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:31 PM
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has anyone tried the Spec R "spring steel" unis yet?

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/spring...16-p-3833.html

it looks like they have pin retainers similar to the TOP pin retainers. I seem to be replacing my uni's a lot to keep the slop out, I'm wondering if these might hold up a bit better than the alloy ones most of us use in the rear
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:31 AM
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For the diff plates, do you guys use any adhesive to mount them on the outdrive? (round plates with no flat notches)

I used to put tamiya thread lock but they break loose easily with a 3000kv motor. Then a fellow driver told me to just build them without any adhesive but just grease between the outdrive and the plates.

Then I found the same tip from Jilles Groskamp somewhere:

"When I build a diff I first sandpaper the plates on both sides, normally around 500-1000 sandpaper.
I use Tamiya Grease hard to put between the outdrive and the plate. Of course make the outdrive and plate clean with motor spray
."

Wouldn't it slip if its not glued?
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