Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X >

Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Like Tree4Likes

Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 01-04-2008, 01:04 PM
  #901  
KoE
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
 
KoE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Blue Marble
Posts: 1,230
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by fadzli
how tight should the rear diff ball? when i follow manual for front tyre, they do not center. any help? i use sanwa erg vb servo.
fadzli,

how "tight" is quite subjective; follow the recommended instuctions and later adjust to your liking.

try centering the servo 1st before connecting to the steering rack assembly
KoE is offline  
Old 01-04-2008, 02:03 PM
  #902  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Europe
Posts: 165
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Do you use 12 or 15 balls in diff?
Tral is offline  
Old 01-04-2008, 03:15 PM
  #903  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
 
RC MARKET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: HK
Posts: 6,279
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Tral
Do you use 12 or 15 balls in diff?
12 balls is ok !
RC MARKET is offline  
Old 01-04-2008, 06:40 PM
  #904  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
 
fadzli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kuala Lumpur
Posts: 222
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by KoE
fadzli,

how "tight" is quite subjective; follow the recommended instuctions and later adjust to your liking.

try centering the servo 1st before connecting to the steering rack assembly
what happen if the rear diff is too tight or too loose? any experience?
fadzli is offline  
Old 01-04-2008, 09:01 PM
  #905  
Tech Regular
 
bigbutstupid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Asia
Posts: 454
Default

i've raced with foams all my life and never really tired rubber tires except for stock ones. and since the tamiya 416 is improved to give rubber tire a leading edge, do you think rubber will be as good as foam for this car? for those who has foams and rubber, care to enlighten me?
im running on a asphalt track with medium/high grip.
bigbutstupid is offline  
Old 01-04-2008, 10:42 PM
  #906  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,447
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

What do you mean with this question? "Do you think rubber will be as good as foam for this car?"

Are you asking if rubber tire will be as fast as a foam tire car? If so, no. Foam tires offer more traction on most surfaces. They are wider. Plus they are lighter in rotational mass. It's my experience on asphalt (which you are racing on) at our tracks that foam tires will be at least .5sec per lap faster than running rubber tire on same car and same setup. This was several years ago (2001~2002) when we ran foam tire on asphalt in both stock and mod class. I know this was along time ago. But I'm sure I can produce the same results today.

When Tamiya said this car was optimized or designed for rubber tire racing. This meant it was designed to use premounted spec tires that you see at these big races like nationals, worlds, etc. I think it was designed to generate more traction through the chassis and suspension rather than over heating or abusing the tires. And it was designed to flex evenly left to right for more consistent handling.

I hope this made some sense.
JimmyMac is offline  
Old 01-04-2008, 11:32 PM
  #907  
Tech Regular
 
bigbutstupid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Asia
Posts: 454
Default

Originally Posted by JimmyMac
What do you mean with this question? "Do you think rubber will be as good as foam for this car?"

Are you asking if rubber tire will be as fast as a foam tire car? If so, no. Foam tires offer more traction on most surfaces. They are wider. Plus they are lighter in rotational mass. It's my experience on asphalt (which you are racing on) at our tracks that foam tires will be at least .5sec per lap faster than running rubber tire on same car and same setup. This was several years ago (2001~2002) when we ran foam tire on asphalt in both stock and mod class. I know this was along time ago. But I'm sure I can produce the same results today.

When Tamiya said this car was optimized or designed for rubber tire racing. This meant it was designed to use premounted spec tires that you see at these big races like nationals, worlds, etc. I think it was designed to generate more traction through the chassis and suspension rather than over heating or abusing the tires. And it was designed to flex evenly left to right for more consistent handling.

I hope this made some sense.
yep, certainly makes sense now. cheers buddy
bigbutstupid is offline  
Old 01-05-2008, 04:59 AM
  #908  
Tech Regular
 
alan1467's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Durham UK
Posts: 352
Default

Just fitted the spool with derlin out drives after reaming the hole out in the bearing carriers for the sleeves and works great. Anyone know the largest spur you can fit?

Alan
alan1467 is offline  
Old 01-05-2008, 10:58 AM
  #909  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Holland, Gouda
Posts: 113
Default

When i build and raced the 416 i noticed that you cant make the full steer length. the steering block does not come to the C-hub completely. This results in a steering possibility of 25/26degree angle.
I was thinking about the remove some material from the steering arms at the inside where it touched the ballnut with the spacers on it or file down the spacers. This wil give you like 1.5mm or so more steering travel wich results in a couple more degrees of steering angle.

What do you guys think of this? Corey/Ed?

Arjen
Arjen is offline  
Old 01-05-2008, 12:00 PM
  #910  
Tech Regular
 
Blueman Austria's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 427
Default

I have a question of the servo mounting.

Runs the front belt between inner servo mount and the servo?
If yes then it can only be screwed with the upper hole of the ervo right?

Gteetings from Austria
Blueman Austria is offline  
Old 01-05-2008, 12:36 PM
  #911  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Lund, Sweden
Posts: 159
Default

Originally Posted by Arjen
When i build and raced the 416 i noticed that you cant make the full steer length. the steering block does not come to the C-hub completely. This results in a steering possibility of 25/26degree angle.
I was thinking about the remove some material from the steering arms at the inside where it touched the ballnut with the spacers on it or file down the spacers. This wil give you like 1.5mm or so more steering travel wich results in a couple more degrees of steering angle.

What do you guys think of this? Corey/Ed?

Arjen
I dont think you need more steering travel because if you do something is likely wrong with your setup. To much travel wears out the front tires faster and may actually reduce steering.
Mr_Orange is offline  
Old 01-05-2008, 02:01 PM
  #912  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,447
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Blueman Austria
I have a question of the servo mounting.

Runs the front belt between inner servo mount and the servo?
If yes then it can only be screwed with the upper hole of the ervo right?

Gteetings from Austria
Correct.
JimmyMac is offline  
Old 01-05-2008, 03:31 PM
  #913  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 5,388
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Mr_Orange
I dont think you need more steering travel because if you do something is likely wrong with your setup. To much travel wears out the front tires faster and may actually reduce steering.
TryHard is offline  
Old 01-05-2008, 03:51 PM
  #914  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 5,388
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Three words....

OH MY GOD!

So, I'm impressed

Had the first run this evening... and although I'm sure some of it is down to NCS, the car felt very good. Very well balanced, but with a nice and sharp front end. The rear just follows the front happily, and making adjustments to how the car turns mid corner is very easy with the throttle. In some ways, it's too sharp for me at the moment, as I've had my 415's always set up a little, well, safe... and always been looking for a little more steering.

Now the 416 just feels planted, even on the cold and un rubbered carpet I was running on this evening. Just seems happy to rotate about itself, although the rear can was a little loose on occasion (though that might be more track conditions than otherwise). Can't wait to see what happens when the grip is up tomorrow

Had about 5-6 runs this evening, and running 10.5/LiPo ment the runs were quite long Started out with kit setup, bar short LWT arms. Suprised at how good the car felt, especially considering how far removed the kit setup seemed from what I ran on the 415 (I know, different cars, but the setup principles are the same).

Anyway, worked through some alterations. Moved the rear link to the inner most hole, which helped take a little snappyness out of the rear. And also dropped to 4mm under the front link, which improved even more the front end response.
Next run, I tried the old faithful 415 setup. Tamiya White/Blue springs, and no roll bars... opps. Front end just felt way to soft, like it was falling over itself. Didn't grip very well, and very slopy response. So quickly pulled the car in to have a look what extra springs I had in my pit box. Ended up going with Xray Light blues (~18lb, Tam White are ~15lb, Tam Grey ~20lb), which improved the front end, got it pretty well back to where it was before.
I did feel that the stiffer front was hurting front traction a little, so dropped back to Tamiya whites, but this time put a soft roll bar on the front. Now thats was more like it. Certainly in my eyes, the car likes a stiffer front end than the 415, I guess that can be put down to the improved flex characteristics of the car.

Final run of the night, I simply moved back to Coreys setup (except still in hole 3 in the arms for the shocks), with the kit shock/roll bar settings. Still felt good... but I've moved back to 4mm under the camber link on the front, as I seemed to be a bit more consistent with that. I'm still having a slight issue on some laps with the rear snapping out in one particular corner, when the rear is quite highly loaded. I'm going to try 1mm under the rear inner link tomorrow in an aid to solve that (lower the rear RC a smidge, but also flattens the link reducing camber change).
Other things I'm going to fiddle with tomorrow are rear shock positions (see if I can a difference between std position and one in), Spring/roll bar setup (might try the white/blue soft front bar option again), and lower shock position (if I get time, I'd like to move them out one hole on the arm, to see the difference).

So, plenty to try, but all good so far... believe the hype

Ed
TryHard is offline  
Old 01-06-2008, 03:10 PM
  #915  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 5,388
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Good run today too. Too tired to right much at the moment... so I just going to post my setup, plus the blank sheet

regards
Ed
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-carpet-start.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-trf416-blank-eng-.jpg  
TryHard is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.