4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
03-26-2010, 04:33 AM
#8551
Originally Posted by jonest
Try pushing the lipo outer little bit. That should do the trick. btw, I still add some 45gm on the rear lipo part.
Ok, will try that soon,thanks.
03-26-2010, 08:10 AM
#8552
Originally Posted by HK416
Ok, will try that soon,thanks.
i have mesured and the servo will be moved about 5 mm in and the reciver and speedo will be moved almost 15mm in
03-26-2010, 08:55 AM
#8553
Tech Adept
steering servo saver help
Need help on setting up servo saver,the 415 was at 1 oclock and the 416 is at 12 oclock. Was on line and read it should be set at 11 oclock ?
03-26-2010, 03:10 PM
#8554
According to the manual, the 415MSX & later are supposed to be set at 10 degrees towards 11 o'clock. Check the bottom of page 15 at the following link: http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/49419ml.pdf
Jilles Groskamp told me the 416 should be set to 11 o'clock too (against the instructions). You really want to setup your servo link length so the saver is perpendicular (right angle) to the link when the steering is centered. This makes your initial steering more symetrical. From there you need to set your end points to give you the same turning radius at full lock in either direction. Then you adjust overall needed steering on the fly with dual rate.
Jilles Groskamp told me the 416 should be set to 11 o'clock too (against the instructions). You really want to setup your servo link length so the saver is perpendicular (right angle) to the link when the steering is centered. This makes your initial steering more symetrical. From there you need to set your end points to give you the same turning radius at full lock in either direction. Then you adjust overall needed steering on the fly with dual rate.
03-26-2010, 07:48 PM
#8555
Originally Posted by 94eg!
According to the manual, the 415MSX & later are supposed to be set at 10 degrees towards 11 o'clock. Check the bottom of page 15 at the following link: http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/49419ml.pdf
Jilles Groskamp told me the 416 should be set to 11 o'clock too (against the instructions). You really want to setup your servo link length so the saver is perpendicular (right angle) to the link when the steering is centered. This makes your initial steering more symetrical. From there you need to set your end points to give you the same turning radius at full lock in either direction. Then you adjust overall needed steering on the fly with dual rate.
Jilles Groskamp told me the 416 should be set to 11 o'clock too (against the instructions). You really want to setup your servo link length so the saver is perpendicular (right angle) to the link when the steering is centered. This makes your initial steering more symetrical. From there you need to set your end points to give you the same turning radius at full lock in either direction. Then you adjust overall needed steering on the fly with dual rate.
03-26-2010, 09:36 PM
#8556
Hi all
yeah I have been testing and using the Smokem chassis on my 416WE and reckon it is fantastic. :-)
my car has never before been as consistent and even turning each way.
I use the ko2143 short servo with SPGT2.0 and ko 2.4 rx. Also I place the pt on right side in front of batt. This layout it balances spot on laterally and so I add a 'log' of lead down the centre close to the left side of the belt against the back of the electronics to get up to legal weight.
This chassis belongs on every 416, it's trick!
yeah I have been testing and using the Smokem chassis on my 416WE and reckon it is fantastic. :-)
my car has never before been as consistent and even turning each way.
I use the ko2143 short servo with SPGT2.0 and ko 2.4 rx. Also I place the pt on right side in front of batt. This layout it balances spot on laterally and so I add a 'log' of lead down the centre close to the left side of the belt against the back of the electronics to get up to legal weight.
This chassis belongs on every 416, it's trick!
03-26-2010, 11:58 PM
#8557
Originally Posted by Cookie
Hi all
yeah I have been testing and using the Smokem chassis on my 416WE and reckon it is fantastic. :-)
my car has never before been as consistent and even turning each way.
I use the ko2143 short servo with SPGT2.0 and ko 2.4 rx. Also I place the pt on right side in front of batt. This layout it balances spot on laterally and so I add a 'log' of lead down the centre close to the left side of the belt against the back of the electronics to get up to legal weight.
This chassis belongs on every 416, it's trick!
yeah I have been testing and using the Smokem chassis on my 416WE and reckon it is fantastic. :-)
my car has never before been as consistent and even turning each way.
I use the ko2143 short servo with SPGT2.0 and ko 2.4 rx. Also I place the pt on right side in front of batt. This layout it balances spot on laterally and so I add a 'log' of lead down the centre close to the left side of the belt against the back of the electronics to get up to legal weight.
This chassis belongs on every 416, it's trick!
03-27-2010, 12:30 AM
#8558
no lead on batts (normal 5000Mah lipos) and I place the batt inner most position. all lead down centre just to left of belt and balance is great!
I'll post a pic later of my (lexan) electronics tray with lead mounting bracket...
I'll post a pic later of my (lexan) electronics tray with lead mounting bracket...
03-27-2010, 05:47 AM
#8559
Originally Posted by Cookie
no lead on batts (normal 5000Mah lipos) and I place the batt inner most position. all lead down centre just to left of belt and balance is great!
I'll post a pic later of my (lexan) electronics tray with lead mounting bracket...
I'll post a pic later of my (lexan) electronics tray with lead mounting bracket...
03-27-2010, 05:29 PM
#8560
Hi,
My setup is based on Jilles Worlds RCS Bangkok Nov08
+
> laid shocks down one position on towers to #1F & #2R
> HPI Pink Front springs
> increased ride height (due to bumps at local TFTR track)
> increased droop ~2mm more droop all round
> Smokem steering brace
> Smokem chassis of course!
...but I would recommend trying Jilles setup as is first! The changes I've made seem to be better for me, but it will be small differences and depends on track/driving style etc of course
Here are some pics showing chassis and electronics layout:
Lead 'log' between electronics and belt:
My setup is based on Jilles Worlds RCS Bangkok Nov08
+
> laid shocks down one position on towers to #1F & #2R
> HPI Pink Front springs
> increased ride height (due to bumps at local TFTR track)
> increased droop ~2mm more droop all round
> Smokem steering brace
> Smokem chassis of course!
...but I would recommend trying Jilles setup as is first! The changes I've made seem to be better for me, but it will be small differences and depends on track/driving style etc of course
Here are some pics showing chassis and electronics layout:
Lead 'log' between electronics and belt:
03-27-2010, 05:36 PM
#8561
Here's pics of the simple electronics tray I made from Lexan.
Main purpose was to enable quicker chassis changes at the track for testing kit vs Smokem chassis back-to-back, but it also enabled a good mounting for the lead.
Electronics tray:
Vertical lexan bracket with lead attached by double sided tape:
Vertical chihuahua (maybe attached by double sided tape):
Main purpose was to enable quicker chassis changes at the track for testing kit vs Smokem chassis back-to-back, but it also enabled a good mounting for the lead.
Electronics tray:
Vertical lexan bracket with lead attached by double sided tape:
Vertical chihuahua (maybe attached by double sided tape):
03-27-2010, 08:08 PM
#8562
Originally Posted by Cookie
Here's pics of the simple electronics tray I made from Lexan.
Main purpose was to enable quicker chassis changes at the track for testing kit vs Smokem chassis back-to-back, but it also enabled a good mounting for the lead.
Electronics tray:
Attachment 573064
Vertical lexan bracket with lead attached by double sided tape:
Attachment 573065
Vertical chihuahua (maybe attached by double sided tape):
Attachment 573066
Main purpose was to enable quicker chassis changes at the track for testing kit vs Smokem chassis back-to-back, but it also enabled a good mounting for the lead.
Electronics tray:
Attachment 573064
Vertical lexan bracket with lead attached by double sided tape:
Attachment 573065
Vertical chihuahua (maybe attached by double sided tape):
Attachment 573066
Pink HPI springs all around with standard 60 shock oil?
03-27-2010, 08:32 PM
#8563
I normally run HPI Silver all round or with HPI Pink on front which I quite like for a bit more stability and quick steering response.
I have 650WT muchmore oil in currently (run out of 700!) but this would depend on temp and bumpiness of track to get the feel you want.
I have 650WT muchmore oil in currently (run out of 700!) but this would depend on temp and bumpiness of track to get the feel you want.
03-27-2010, 08:52 PM
#8564
Originally Posted by Cookie
I normally run HPI Silver all round or with HPI Pink on front which I quite like for a bit more stability and quick steering response.
I have 650WT muchmore oil in currently (run out of 700!) but this would depend on temp and bumpiness of track to get the feel you want.
I have 650WT muchmore oil in currently (run out of 700!) but this would depend on temp and bumpiness of track to get the feel you want.
