Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#828

Me too, just wish I understood setup!
#830
Tech Master

to me,shock rebound should be slow and smooth.shock rebound should be controled by the spring IMHO.
i know most people inc. me dont use anything about the diaphram.this gives minimum rebound and makes the shock smoother.By andding o-rings of different softnesses effect the rebound,,going hard gives it a fast rebound.
all i do is after bleeding the shocks i sit the black diaphram on top and push it down GENTLY all the way home,then i put the cap on,when the cap is 3/4 the way on i push the damper shaft about 1/2 way up.then pull down and sit the cap all the way home.
What that does is any excess oil u got in the cylinder lets it escape so you havent got a hard shock or a fast rebound.
when that is finshed it gives me a silky smooth shock and when the shock is fully compressed it just extends about 1/4 way out but feels real smooth.
i dunno if this is what most peope o but i have always built my shocks that way and had no problems.
i do this no matter what oil iam using or wether iam running carpet or ashphelt.
hope it helps.
#832
Tech Regular

Ed, nice write up and pixs ... good read - Thanks
#834
Tech Fanatic
#835

Do you take note there's a white bushing, like made with nylon, something like that, what is this?
I hope other guys could reply too...
#836


The white bushing simply looks like the delrin outdrive.
From what has been posted, it works fine in terms of fitment, but the outdrive sleaves need to be cut back by ~1mm to clear the bearing holders, OR use TA05 spool outdrives (the steel ones, with 4 slots).
HiH
Ed
#837

As for the knuckles... heres a comparison.
First pic is the 416 knuckles, second the 415... probably enough room for some 28mm foams

Some more comparisons (just bare in mind, these were taken with the rear suspension blocks of both cars lined up)...
Third pic is the steering, obvious to see the shorter bell cranks on the 416. Also interesting to note is that the suspension blocks are further forward (circled top of pic), by ~1mm, and the steering posts themselves seem slightly further forward.
Forth pic shows motor mounting of 416 vs 415, layshaft and motor are obviously further back in the car..
Regards
Ed
#838

It's simply the 415 MRE spool, but with the pulley mounted the other side. 
The white bushing simply looks like the delrin outdrive.
From what has been posted, it works fine in terms of fitment, but the outdrive sleaves need to be cut back by ~1mm to clear the bearing holders, OR use TA05 spool outdrives (the steel ones, with 4 slots).
HiH
Ed

The white bushing simply looks like the delrin outdrive.
From what has been posted, it works fine in terms of fitment, but the outdrive sleaves need to be cut back by ~1mm to clear the bearing holders, OR use TA05 spool outdrives (the steel ones, with 4 slots).
HiH
Ed
Recommend me using MRE spool with ta05 outdrives?
Could be too with JAAD spool, this 1 fits also with Tamiya ta05 outdrives?
Best regards
Last edited by mac853; 12-31-2007 at 08:36 AM.
#839
Tech Adept

I also think that removing the foam changes the damping in bump (instroke) something that maybe should be considered.
#840
Tech Adept

It's simply the 415 MRE spool, but with the pulley mounted the other side. 
The white bushing simply looks like the delrin outdrive.
From what has been posted, it works fine in terms of fitment, but the outdrive sleaves need to be cut back by ~1mm to clear the bearing holders, OR use TA05 spool outdrives (the steel ones, with 4 slots).
HiH
Ed

The white bushing simply looks like the delrin outdrive.
From what has been posted, it works fine in terms of fitment, but the outdrive sleaves need to be cut back by ~1mm to clear the bearing holders, OR use TA05 spool outdrives (the steel ones, with 4 slots).
HiH
Ed