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Old 02-07-2010, 06:19 PM   #8101
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
The cars are very similar in both quality and performance. Just choose the one you like most and that you can get parts for the easiest
I agree 100% with that, the only thing thats one up for the 416X is the shocks, tough to beat the tamiya shocks.
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:19 PM   #8102
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Originally Posted by cheehtae View Post
what do you guys usually do (adjust )if the car pushes in mid entry/exit? it's short techy track. Rubber carpet.
Obviously it depends on your setup, but a quick fix is to narrow the front track a little

You could also try Jilles' setup from snowbirds http://www.rctech.net/forum/6945805-post855.html

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I agree 100% with that, the only thing thats one up for the 416X is the shocks, tough to beat the tamiya shocks.
Definitely! As a side note, I just rebuilt 2 sets of mine with the MM blue orings and that makes them even smoother
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:51 PM   #8103
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this may be a stupid question:

when i remove my shocks off the 416 the suspsension arms hangs and stops because it hits the bottom chassis when the droop screw is removed.
when i reinstall the shocks the suspension arm floats 3-4mm above the chassis.

is this normal for the 416 or is my shock shaft too short?

thanks in advance.
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:57 PM   #8104
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Obviously it depends on your setup, but a quick fix is to narrow the front track a little

You could also try Jilles' setup from snowbirds http://www.rctech.net/forum/6945805-post855.html


Definitely! As a side note, I just rebuilt 2 sets of mine with the MM blue orings and that makes them even smoother
What's the part no. for the o-rings? They offer two different ones. (temp range)
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:17 PM   #8105
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Originally Posted by Jin View Post
this may be a stupid question:

when i remove my shocks off the 416 the suspsension arms hangs and stops because it hits the bottom chassis when the droop screw is removed.
when i reinstall the shocks the suspension arm floats 3-4mm above the chassis.

is this normal for the 416 or is my shock shaft too short?

thanks in advance.
Your shock length should be about 61mm. I don't know why you'd ever remove the droop screws, but there wont be enough length in the shock shafts to let the arms bottom out on the deck.

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What's the part no. for the o-rings? They offer two different ones. (temp range)
I used mk-r01, the sky blue ones
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:16 AM   #8106
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Default 416x lipo retainer question - help

This question may have been posted many times on this tread but I can't afford to scroll through 500 pages.

I am thinking of buying my first touring car, and the 416x appeals to me the most. Problem is all my current lipo packs are flat top and bottom type which doesn't have the sub-c bulges to fit into the chasis. What do you guys use the secure the lipo for flat batteries? Does the associated lipo retainer fit the 416x without any significant mod? Worst case scenario is to glue the retainer to the car? I saw the post a couple of pages back for bitty tray. I don't like the design. Any other choices?

Your feedback is very much appreciated. Thanks guys
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:52 AM   #8107
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There are a few options

One is a bitty design lipo tray

http://feralbatteries.com.au/category.aspx?id=%2053

there were a few others a couple of pages
back

Or you can strap them in with tape
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:17 AM   #8108
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Originally Posted by HCHL View Post
This question may have been posted many times on this tread but I can't afford to scroll through 500 pages.

I am thinking of buying my first touring car, and the 416x appeals to me the most. Problem is all my current lipo packs are flat top and bottom type which doesn't have the sub-c bulges to fit into the chasis. What do you guys use the secure the lipo for flat batteries? Does the associated lipo retainer fit the 416x without any significant mod? Worst case scenario is to glue the retainer to the car? I saw the post a couple of pages back for bitty tray. I don't like the design. Any other choices?

Your feedback is very much appreciated. Thanks guys
Check out www.ppdbillet.com

Kevin makes lipo base plates as well as base inserts. Use the base plate for light packs or use the inserts for the larger packs.

Check them out and Kevin @ PPD is a great guy to do biz with.

Kody
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:21 AM   #8109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HCHL View Post
This question may have been posted many times on this tread but I can't afford to scroll through 500 pages.

I am thinking of buying my first touring car, and the 416x appeals to me the most. Problem is all my current lipo packs are flat top and bottom type which doesn't have the sub-c bulges to fit into the chasis. What do you guys use the secure the lipo for flat batteries? Does the associated lipo retainer fit the 416x without any significant mod? Worst case scenario is to glue the retainer to the car? I saw the post a couple of pages back for bitty tray. I don't like the design. Any other choices?

Your feedback is very much appreciated. Thanks guys
This is how Jilles setup his 416X for the Birds and the new 1420gram weight minimum. He basically just moved the battery out to line up with the edge of the chassis and put weight on the rest of the chassis as needed. Just use tape to secure the battery and use some dbl sided tape under the battery between the sub-c holes to keep it in place. Can't get any easier than that.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/6945827-post856.html

"Forget the balancing weights:

Minimum weight at Snowbirds race was 1420 gram.

I used 60gr weight on the centerline of the chassis.
Moved the battery little outside(5mm from bulkhead) , same line as outside chassis.
15gr right front under steering, 10 gr left front under steering.
5 gr right rear behind the Lipo.

Jilles"
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:22 AM   #8110
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it's good jilles willingly shares his setup with all....keep it up man
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:39 AM   #8111
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Here is a 3D of the new 1E block I am working on. I should have a few prototypes this week. Once I get them we will be doing some testing with them only in the rear rear block. The first blocks will not be anodized as they are only prototypes.

Let me know if you have any questions...
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:41 AM   #8112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Your shock length should be about 61mm.

61.5
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:48 AM   #8113
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Looks great

Like it has double the materials

but it is mostly the front rear a back front
that I have problems with
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:35 AM   #8114
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Originally Posted by Senna Racing View Post
Looks great

Like it has double the materials

but it is mostly the front rear a back front
that I have problems with
the split blocks are a good solution for this.
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:35 PM   #8115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
The cars are very similar in both quality and performance. Just choose the one you like most and that you can get parts for the easiest
I have a Xray T3 today. and some details, I am not happy with. For example, dampers are worthless. leaking oil. C-hubs cracks in casting joint limits.

Is it the same problem with the 416X?

What is an Xray T3 Host today after 2 races?
Maybe the wrong forum igent but try

How much does a Tamiya 416X costs?
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