Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#7981

I can't say for sure, but I think they are made of the same material, at least they feel the same.
#7983

hi, is it worth the effort to reverse the belt layout to bring the electronics closer to the center line? would cutting the graphite chassis under the diff/spool pulleys cause problems? i have a 416we. thanks.
#7984

Any idea for blue titanium screw (AFTER MARKET) for 416
#7985

Try rcmarket.com.hk
They have both square and 3 racing
as far as I know but a least one
They have both square and 3 racing
as far as I know but a least one
#7986

for tamiya they use foam bumper. but the bumper holder which has 3 screws do comes out on impact. it seem as the plastic material not good. in such a case you can screw back but the thread seem gone....
#7987
#7988

I had this problem with my we so I
Put a few drops of pink zap in the holes
allowed to set for a min
Then reset screws leave for a min
Screw out and reset
Hasn't moved since and I can take it off at will
Put a few drops of pink zap in the holes
allowed to set for a min
Then reset screws leave for a min
Screw out and reset
Hasn't moved since and I can take it off at will
#7989

if i m not mistaken, there are discussion to use GP rubber bumpers. the ori foam bumper is not good to absorb impact.
not forgetting using zap for bumper mount....
not forgetting using zap for bumper mount....

#7990


#7992

I haven't seen anyone that makes blue titanium screws as of yet. A local company to me just started doing motors/batts and had talked of colored titanium products in the past, but I haven't heard anything recently.
You could get Lunsford or Titanium Racing screws and anodize them yourself. Only those brands will use a high enough grade titanium to make this work.
It's a relatively easy process to anodize titanium, getting a consistant shade isn't as easy though. I haven't done it in years, but I think for a blue shade, you need 4 9 volt batteries, put an aligator clip on the + side, and run a wire to the - side. Get a small jar and fill it with Lysol Basin Tub & Tile Cleaner. You'll dunk the - wire into that solution, clip onto the screw with the aligator clip and dunk it for 5-10 seconds (making sure not to dip the aligator clip itself) until you get the right shade.
Different battery variations give different colors, 9 volts = gold, 18 volts = purple, 27 volts = violet, 36 volts = blue if I remember right.
You could get Lunsford or Titanium Racing screws and anodize them yourself. Only those brands will use a high enough grade titanium to make this work.
It's a relatively easy process to anodize titanium, getting a consistant shade isn't as easy though. I haven't done it in years, but I think for a blue shade, you need 4 9 volt batteries, put an aligator clip on the + side, and run a wire to the - side. Get a small jar and fill it with Lysol Basin Tub & Tile Cleaner. You'll dunk the - wire into that solution, clip onto the screw with the aligator clip and dunk it for 5-10 seconds (making sure not to dip the aligator clip itself) until you get the right shade.
Different battery variations give different colors, 9 volts = gold, 18 volts = purple, 27 volts = violet, 36 volts = blue if I remember right.
#7993


Thanks.........Dwayne Flodell
Last edited by tandman; 01-27-2010 at 09:13 PM.
#7994
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)

Hi Randy,
Last time out, I noticed you were running the Orion Molecular LiPos. Just wondering if they fit under the top deck without any modifications and if they leave enough room for the deck to flex? I'm trying to decide between that battery or a Thunder Power.
Thanks!
Last time out, I noticed you were running the Orion Molecular LiPos. Just wondering if they fit under the top deck without any modifications and if they leave enough room for the deck to flex? I'm trying to decide between that battery or a Thunder Power.
Thanks!
#7995

does anyone have a link to a set of aluminium front uprights for the 416?
thanx
thanx