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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 01-26-2010, 05:01 PM
  #7981  
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
How hard are those Parma bumpers?
I recently ordered one of the Xray brand hard bumpers, and it is mega stiff, like a piece of wood, i cant see how it has any impact absorbing qualities, is the Parma one as hard as that?
I can't say for sure, but I think they are made of the same material, at least they feel the same.
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Old 01-26-2010, 09:30 PM
  #7982  
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The reason they are so stiff is so that when you hit a board or whatever it may be, the bumper won't bend. If it bends, you have a good chance of kissing a c-hub or knuckle goodbye.
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:39 AM
  #7983  
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hi, is it worth the effort to reverse the belt layout to bring the electronics closer to the center line? would cutting the graphite chassis under the diff/spool pulleys cause problems? i have a 416we. thanks.
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Old 01-27-2010, 02:03 AM
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Default hi all

Any idea for blue titanium screw (AFTER MARKET) for 416
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Old 01-27-2010, 04:03 AM
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Try rcmarket.com.hk

They have both square and 3 racing
as far as I know but a least one
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Old 01-27-2010, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
The reason they are so stiff is so that when you hit a board or whatever it may be, the bumper won't bend. If it bends, you have a good chance of kissing a c-hub or knuckle goodbye.
for tamiya they use foam bumper. but the bumper holder which has 3 screws do comes out on impact. it seem as the plastic material not good. in such a case you can screw back but the thread seem gone....
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Old 01-27-2010, 05:26 AM
  #7987  
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Originally Posted by HoboShop View Post
???????
Doc the WE is a good car just come to the track next Wednesday night and i will help you out.
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Old 01-27-2010, 05:38 AM
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I had this problem with my we so I

Put a few drops of pink zap in the holes
allowed to set for a min

Then reset screws leave for a min

Screw out and reset

Hasn't moved since and I can take it off at will
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Old 01-27-2010, 07:37 AM
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if i m not mistaken, there are discussion to use GP rubber bumpers. the ori foam bumper is not good to absorb impact.

not forgetting using zap for bumper mount....
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
hi, is it worth the effort to reverse the belt layout to bring the electronics closer to the center line? would cutting the graphite chassis under the diff/spool pulleys cause problems? i have a 416we. thanks.
I don't know if its worth it, but it sure makes the car look different. I've done this as well, but haven't had a chance to run it yet. The bad part is with the weight break we use it makes it a little harder to balance it out now with the new configuration.
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Old 01-27-2010, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by thekthai View Post
Any idea for blue titanium screw (AFTER MARKET) for 416
try to get Roche titanium screw...deeper hex hole and affordable price too...
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by thekthai View Post
Any idea for blue titanium screw (AFTER MARKET) for 416
I haven't seen anyone that makes blue titanium screws as of yet. A local company to me just started doing motors/batts and had talked of colored titanium products in the past, but I haven't heard anything recently.

You could get Lunsford or Titanium Racing screws and anodize them yourself. Only those brands will use a high enough grade titanium to make this work.

It's a relatively easy process to anodize titanium, getting a consistant shade isn't as easy though. I haven't done it in years, but I think for a blue shade, you need 4 9 volt batteries, put an aligator clip on the + side, and run a wire to the - side. Get a small jar and fill it with Lysol Basin Tub & Tile Cleaner. You'll dunk the - wire into that solution, clip onto the screw with the aligator clip and dunk it for 5-10 seconds (making sure not to dip the aligator clip itself) until you get the right shade.

Different battery variations give different colors, 9 volts = gold, 18 volts = purple, 27 volts = violet, 36 volts = blue if I remember right.
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:50 PM
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Hey guys, just a quick update on the 416X. I won my first regional race this past weekend (since switching to Tamiya) against some pretty fast guys and must say that the X is a step above the WE. My X had wicked corner speed and very good straight line stability that made it easier for me to drive around the other guys in tight situations. I took the win in Touring Stock with the X and 3rd in Touring Superstock with WE. I was very close to Joe Glovers setup on both cars except that as traction came up I added 1mm shims under the outside camber links to keep the car from traction rolling....this change actually worked very well, and I have been experimenting with front arm sweep and ran an F-block in the front mount position to give me 1.5 degrees of arm sweep.....this worked very well in the high speed sweeping sections of the track.
Thanks.........Dwayne Flodell

Last edited by tandman; 01-27-2010 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:07 PM
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Hi Randy,
Last time out, I noticed you were running the Orion Molecular LiPos. Just wondering if they fit under the top deck without any modifications and if they leave enough room for the deck to flex? I'm trying to decide between that battery or a Thunder Power.
Thanks!
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:06 PM
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does anyone have a link to a set of aluminium front uprights for the 416?
thanx
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