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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 01-23-2010, 10:30 PM
  #7951  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I have run the Atomic ECS in a 416, and did a little write up about them in some previous posts. They definately take the chatter out of the car, what little the stock one has. Things to look out for, the pins break and they are about 43 and change for length, this is causing broken outdrives in some cases, as the tip of the swing shaft is too close to the end of the outdrive and puts extra pressure on that end. The 46 steel swing shafts are prefered as the sit deeper in the plunge of the outdrive where its in a stronger position. If your using the black outdrive cups the 46 is the way to go, I have run shorter swing shafts but have used the white 415 outdrives which seem to be less brittle, but require some mods for proper clearence between the bulk heads. The broken pins can be replaced with drill bit blanks or hardened rod, I use the drill bits, I buy the exact size bit and cut it off. The other trick here is the setscrew that holds the pins in puts extra pressure on the pin and the wall thickness of the setscrew makes them prone to stripping. My cure for this is to get rid of the setscrews completely and use shrink wrap, like LOSI does to hold the pins in. Since I did this I haven't broke a pin yet. another thing to look out for with the ECS is there is still a clearence issue in the c-hub, something I hadn't noticed before, but in straightline they are okay, but in lock to lock, the ECS shifts just enough to touch the inner hole of the c-hub, so best to check that out as it will cause drag.

Also if you do run the 46 swing shafts but go to a narrow front width setting check to make sure that axles aren't binding in the outdrive cup. Best way to check is to remove your front shocks and while rotating the the cars rear wheels, lift the front suspension arms one at a time through full travel, if the swingshafts are binding you'll feel it throught the rotation.
Hot bodies double joint CVDs will fit the spool if you widen the slot in the plastic cup and also open the cup slightly to accommodate the ball. It's about 10 minutes worth of work, but much less nerve wracking than wondering when your Atomic drive shafts will grenade Trying to keep the Atomics together was not fun.
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Old 01-24-2010, 03:05 AM
  #7952  
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At the rate uni's wear out I sure as hell wont be getting anything flash for my cars

I think Randy might be onto something with using the LTC-R for spec and the speed 6 for mod. A little while back when I had a play with a 4.5 I couldn't match my 10.5 times on our tight track with the LTC-R, but with 10.5 when I tested the bodies back to back I found the LTC-R was worth about 2 tenths
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Old 01-24-2010, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
I have done back to back testing between the Speed 6 and LTC-R on my WE. With a mod motor, the LTC-R was more aggressive entering the corners, and helped the car roll more. The Speed 6 was a bit less aggressive, and felt like the car drove flatter.

For mod, I'm going to use the LTC-R since I can use that extra steering to scrub speed on the entrance and then just power through the corner, for 13.5 it will be the Speed 6 to try to keep the speed up through the whole corner.
i agree with u...for stock class, i found out ltc-r less rotation speed than speed6...it's hardly to drive smoothly through a corner(maybe my setting was wrong though). With speed6 ,its smooth through the corners. But in the end still ltc-r hv faster time than speed6...

i will try do back to back testing again....
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:59 AM
  #7954  
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Can anyone tell me how many teeth that are on the folllowing belts below?

6244017 TRF416 Rear Belt
6244016 TRF416 Front Belt

54144 TRF416 WE Rear Belt


Just curious if they would be a good size to fit on the TRF415 with 36T Front and Rear pulleys and the 18T center pulley setup.

I got most of the other belt sizes of the whole TRF415 series and 416X car belts. I did order some Hot Bodies Cyclone car belts 170T front and 62T rear for this setup.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:53 AM
  #7955  
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
At the rate uni's wear out I sure as hell wont be getting anything flash for my cars

I think Randy might be onto something with using the LTC-R for spec and the speed 6 for mod. A little while back when I had a play with a 4.5 I couldn't match my 10.5 times on our tight track with the LTC-R, but with 10.5 when I tested the bodies back to back I found the LTC-R was worth about 2 tenths
Actually it's the other way around LTC-R for mod, Speed 6 for spec. Barry Baker tried it first and it worked great for him, I gave it a shot and had the same results.

The LTC-R just goes into the corners a lot harder and allows the car to roll more which in my case really frees it up in the hairpins. The Speed 6 stays flatter which keeps the car a bit more planted, but the body itself seems to have more rotation.
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Old 01-24-2010, 11:14 AM
  #7956  
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Lol, thanks Adam, it means so much coming from you. Did you get the setup wheels yet?
I did sir, and I thank you, they're really good looking
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Old 01-24-2010, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
I did sir, and I thank you, they're really good looking
Glad they arrived already, Priority Mail... best $5 ever, lol.
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Old 01-24-2010, 01:22 PM
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Hi Randy,
If you don't mind sharing; what springs do you run front/rear at West Coast?
Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ittjv View Post
Hi Randy,
If you don't mind sharing; what springs do you run front/rear at West Coast?
Thanks!
Been running Tamiya white front and blue rear, going to try HPI gold front and silver rear this week.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
Hot bodies double joint CVDs will fit the spool if you widen the slot in the plastic cup and also open the cup slightly to accommodate the ball. It's about 10 minutes worth of work, but much less nerve wracking than wondering when your Atomic drive shafts will grenade Trying to keep the Atomics together was not fun.
Been meaning to try them forever, but will get a pair this week to try out in the new X.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Actually it's the other way around LTC-R for mod, Speed 6 for spec. Barry Baker tried it first and it worked great for him, I gave it a shot and had the same results.

The LTC-R just goes into the corners a lot harder and allows the car to roll more which in my case really frees it up in the hairpins. The Speed 6 stays flatter which keeps the car a bit more planted, but the body itself seems to have more rotation.
same goes here.
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Old 01-25-2010, 05:13 AM
  #7962  
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Hey you guys, I just purchased a slightly used 416 we from a friend I wanted to know what parts do I need to convert it into a 416x. And do I need to is the car good enough as is?
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Old 01-25-2010, 06:56 AM
  #7963  
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Finished building the X yesterday. Went together real nice. Still need to put electronics in. Amazed at how free the drive train is compared to the original 416. I was going to put the 0.1 spacers in to free it up, but I don't need to do that anymore.
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Actually it's the other way around LTC-R for mod, Speed 6 for spec. Barry Baker tried it first and it worked great for him, I gave it a shot and had the same results.

The LTC-R just goes into the corners a lot harder and allows the car to roll more which in my case really frees it up in the hairpins. The Speed 6 stays flatter which keeps the car a bit more planted, but the body itself seems to have more rotation.
if like that what is the better bodyshell you can recommend?
1. brushless stock spec 11.5T
2. brushless modified 4.5T
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:07 AM
  #7965  
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That would be ltc-r for your 4.5 or mod anything under 10.5

and the speed 6 for 11.5 spec or stock
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