4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
01-20-2010, 12:04 PM
#7906
Got my 416X kit yesterday, and about 75% done with the build. I was surprised at how many changes they made to the car, a lot of small subtle things, but they all should make the car better overall.
Just awaiting my Schumacher diff grease so I can build the diff and throw the rear end together. Schumacher USA does have it in stock for any who are in need.
Just awaiting my Schumacher diff grease so I can build the diff and throw the rear end together. Schumacher USA does have it in stock for any who are in need.
01-20-2010, 12:08 PM
#7907
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Got my 416X kit yesterday, and about 75% done with the build. I was surprised at how many changes they made to the car, a lot of small subtle things, but they all should make the car better overall.
Just awaiting my Schumacher diff grease so I can build the diff and throw the rear end together. Schumacher USA does have it in stock for any who are in need.
Just awaiting my Schumacher diff grease so I can build the diff and throw the rear end together. Schumacher USA does have it in stock for any who are in need.
01-20-2010, 01:20 PM
#7909
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Got my 416X kit yesterday, and about 75% done with the build. I was surprised at how many changes they made to the car, a lot of small subtle things, but they all should make the car better overall.
Just awaiting my Schumacher diff grease so I can build the diff and throw the rear end together. Schumacher USA does have it in stock for any who are in need.
Just awaiting my Schumacher diff grease so I can build the diff and throw the rear end together. Schumacher USA does have it in stock for any who are in need.
Building up mine too. It seems the center motor mount post does not line up with the chassis- about .3mm off. When I loosen the 2 main motor mount screws and attach only the center post screw and the rear motor mount screw then the middle hole position is off.
Can you confirm if this is happening on yours Randy?
Thx,
M
01-20-2010, 01:23 PM
#7910
Originally Posted by Govert
Edit I saw you edited your post. 0 degrees is fine..
Well, I myself haven't seen anybody using two diffs, but there are guys out there that are. Depends on track type and conditions...
Well, I myself haven't seen anybody using two diffs, but there are guys out there that are. Depends on track type and conditions...
At my local parking lot races, we almost all use dual diffs. The track setup is very narrow, so you spend lots of time making extremely tight 180's. A one-way works very well in these conditions, but restricts you to a single line. This doesn't allow you to defend your position.
The top guys at our races couldn't get spools to turn in enough. One of best runs a WE...
01-20-2010, 01:57 PM
#7911
Originally Posted by gashuffer
Steel is the preferred choice.
01-20-2010, 02:17 PM
#7912
Originally Posted by inpuressa
anyone use steel outdrives? My stock ones get deformed and bind the suspension movement. Heard that either the TB03 or the TA05 steel ones work. Anyone know more detail? Thanks.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53501
Here are the 46mm steel for the front with a spool:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=51092
01-20-2010, 02:43 PM
#7913
Originally Posted by MikeR
Building up mine too. It seems the center motor mount post does not line up with the chassis- about .3mm off. When I loosen the 2 main motor mount screws and attach only the center post screw and the rear motor mount screw then the middle hole position is off.
Can you confirm if this is happening on yours Randy?
Thx,
M
Can you confirm if this is happening on yours Randy?
Thx,
M
01-20-2010, 03:02 PM
#7914
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Mine lines up perfectly, tightened everything down and my chassis lays flat on the setup board. Nothing seemed like it didn't line up right in my kit.. Try loosening the center mounting post and re-tightening it on the motor plate with everything snugged down to the chassis.
01-20-2010, 04:11 PM
#7915
Originally Posted by inpuressa
anyone use steel outdrives? My stock ones get deformed and bind the suspension movement. Heard that either the TB03 or the TA05 steel ones work. Anyone know more detail? Thanks.
Originally Posted by gashuffer
Look back a few pages there is a link to the site. They have them in stock.
01-20-2010, 05:29 PM
#7916
Must be lost in the Xmas mass mail
Sure the will arrive so
Sure the will arrive so
01-20-2010, 06:04 PM
#7917
Originally Posted by 94eg!
Doesn't using zero toe result in an incosistent car? I was always told that zero toe allows the play in the suspension to bounce around and keep the car from tracking straight. If you run a little bit of toe-out, that will force slack in suspension to one side and allow the car to track straight and true. Personally I would start with a small amount of toe-out in the front.
At my local parking lot races, we almost all use dual diffs. The track setup is very narrow, so you spend lots of time making extremely tight 180's. A one-way works very well in these conditions, but restricts you to a single line. This doesn't allow you to defend your position.
The top guys at our races couldn't get spools to turn in enough. One of best runs a WE...
At my local parking lot races, we almost all use dual diffs. The track setup is very narrow, so you spend lots of time making extremely tight 180's. A one-way works very well in these conditions, but restricts you to a single line. This doesn't allow you to defend your position.
The top guys at our races couldn't get spools to turn in enough. One of best runs a WE...
I can not work it out. I swapped the servo with another one that I know it working perfectly and nothing, same issue.
Tightened the rear diff up abit, nothing. Chassis is completely flat…
Could it be that I have a faulty front spool? I will try more toe out tonight...
01-20-2010, 06:25 PM
#7918
Originally Posted by CraigM
Do you mean outdrives or dogbones? don't use steel outdrives for the spool, you will lose steering
01-20-2010, 08:23 PM
#7920
Does anyone use ECSs instead of the CVDs on the X? What the next best option if the steel shafts takes away steering other then the aluminum one? One more thing whats the advantage of the 46mm over the 44mm shafts
