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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 01-20-2010, 11:04 AM
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Got my 416X kit yesterday, and about 75% done with the build. I was surprised at how many changes they made to the car, a lot of small subtle things, but they all should make the car better overall.

Just awaiting my Schumacher diff grease so I can build the diff and throw the rear end together. Schumacher USA does have it in stock for any who are in need.
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Got my 416X kit yesterday, and about 75% done with the build. I was surprised at how many changes they made to the car, a lot of small subtle things, but they all should make the car better overall.

Just awaiting my Schumacher diff grease so I can build the diff and throw the rear end together. Schumacher USA does have it in stock for any who are in need.
Yes we do
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
anyone use steel outdrives? My stock ones get deformed and bind the suspension movement. Heard that either the TB03 or the TA05 steel ones work. Anyone know more detail? Thanks.
Steel is the preferred choice.
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Got my 416X kit yesterday, and about 75% done with the build. I was surprised at how many changes they made to the car, a lot of small subtle things, but they all should make the car better overall.

Just awaiting my Schumacher diff grease so I can build the diff and throw the rear end together. Schumacher USA does have it in stock for any who are in need.

Building up mine too. It seems the center motor mount post does not line up with the chassis- about .3mm off. When I loosen the 2 main motor mount screws and attach only the center post screw and the rear motor mount screw then the middle hole position is off.
Can you confirm if this is happening on yours Randy?

Thx,

M
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Govert View Post
Edit I saw you edited your post. 0 degrees is fine..

Well, I myself haven't seen anybody using two diffs, but there are guys out there that are. Depends on track type and conditions...
Doesn't using zero toe result in an incosistent car? I was always told that zero toe allows the play in the suspension to bounce around and keep the car from tracking straight. If you run a little bit of toe-out, that will force slack in suspension to one side and allow the car to track straight and true. Personally I would start with a small amount of toe-out in the front.

At my local parking lot races, we almost all use dual diffs. The track setup is very narrow, so you spend lots of time making extremely tight 180's. A one-way works very well in these conditions, but restricts you to a single line. This doesn't allow you to defend your position.

The top guys at our races couldn't get spools to turn in enough. One of best runs a WE...
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by gashuffer View Post
Steel is the preferred choice.
thanks. TA05 or the TB03 ones?
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Old 01-20-2010, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
anyone use steel outdrives? My stock ones get deformed and bind the suspension movement. Heard that either the TB03 or the TA05 steel ones work. Anyone know more detail? Thanks.
Here are the 42mm steel for the rear:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53501

Here are the 46mm steel for the front with a spool:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=51092
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Old 01-20-2010, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Building up mine too. It seems the center motor mount post does not line up with the chassis- about .3mm off. When I loosen the 2 main motor mount screws and attach only the center post screw and the rear motor mount screw then the middle hole position is off.
Can you confirm if this is happening on yours Randy?

Thx,

M
Mine lines up perfectly, tightened everything down and my chassis lays flat on the setup board. Nothing seemed like it didn't line up right in my kit.. Try loosening the center mounting post and re-tightening it on the motor plate with everything snugged down to the chassis.
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Mine lines up perfectly, tightened everything down and my chassis lays flat on the setup board. Nothing seemed like it didn't line up right in my kit.. Try loosening the center mounting post and re-tightening it on the motor plate with everything snugged down to the chassis.
Ok I will try again. Just that it's is off left to right. Front to back is ok. Thanks- M
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
anyone use steel outdrives? My stock ones get deformed and bind the suspension movement. Heard that either the TB03 or the TA05 steel ones work. Anyone know more detail? Thanks.
Do you mean outdrives or dogbones? don't use steel outdrives for the spool, you will lose steering

Originally Posted by gashuffer View Post
Look back a few pages there is a link to the site. They have them in stock.
I mean I ordered a few tubs about a month ago and so far they haven't turned up
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:29 PM
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Must be lost in the Xmas mass mail

Sure the will arrive so
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
Doesn't using zero toe result in an incosistent car? I was always told that zero toe allows the play in the suspension to bounce around and keep the car from tracking straight. If you run a little bit of toe-out, that will force slack in suspension to one side and allow the car to track straight and true. Personally I would start with a small amount of toe-out in the front.

At my local parking lot races, we almost all use dual diffs. The track setup is very narrow, so you spend lots of time making extremely tight 180's. A one-way works very well in these conditions, but restricts you to a single line. This doesn't allow you to defend your position.

The top guys at our races couldn't get spools to turn in enough. One of best runs a WE...
OK,

I can not work it out. I swapped the servo with another one that I know it working perfectly and nothing, same issue.

Tightened the rear diff up abit, nothing. Chassis is completely flat…

Could it be that I have a faulty front spool? I will try more toe out tonight...
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Do you mean outdrives or dogbones? don't use steel outdrives for the spool, you will lose steering
oh that sucks. Guess I'll just order a lot of them. Wonder what mechanics are involved for the loss of steering.
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Do you mean outdrives or dogbones?
Swing shafts.
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Old 01-20-2010, 07:23 PM
  #7920  
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Does anyone use ECSs instead of the CVDs on the X? What the next best option if the steel shafts takes away steering other then the aluminum one? One more thing whats the advantage of the 46mm over the 44mm shafts
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