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Old 01-19-2010, 08:35 AM   #7891
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Thanks, I ve seen that a few times already....So do you guys set the diff until its not slipping anymore? (stopping both cup and try to force turn the diff pulley) I m trying to get it as smooth (less friction feel) as my friend's mentioned car above.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:39 AM   #7892
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A tighter rear diff will make the car feel more planted in the rear. A looser diff will make the car rotate a little better. I run my diff pretty tight so that I can avoid the dreaded diff squeal and I like a pretty planted car compared to what other like to run.

A while back I wrote up a build diff procedure but it was for my cyclone. I will see if I can find it.
Thanks for that info artwork, if you have found your write up, can you post it or PM me?
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Old 01-19-2010, 10:27 AM   #7893
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uh... I think a looser diff provides more traction off power but a tighter rear diff provides more acceleration. Real cars with a lot of power, real wheel drive and a limited slip diff put the power to the ground but one must be careful with the power as the rear can swing out on you (over steer). RC gear diffs (gas cars on-road) usually use thinner diff oil in the rear for more traction. So a tight ball diff has less slip and puts the power to the ground vs. a little slip that gives more traction off power. Basically one has to find their own "sweet spot" for their driving needs.

http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/s...setup-book.pdf <<<page 33 to 36

LOOSER REAR DIFFERENTIAL SETTING
A loose setting increases rear traction when cornering, but it may also cause the diff to “unload” more easily on high-traction surfaces that cause the car to unweight its inside tires in tight turns.

TIGHTER REAR DIFFERENTIAL SETTING
The car will have less rear traction when cornering because more force will be required to activate the diff. If traction isn't sufficient to activate the diff while cornering, the inside wheel will have less traction as the diff tries to turn it as quickly as the outside rear wheel.

Last edited by Isaac; 01-19-2010 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:04 AM   #7894
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Hi everyone,

I m getting alot of tweaking(?) in my car, when I pull full throttle it just goes crazy left right left right real quick. I can never get the steering right, if I turn full left, it will centre pulling to the left, if I turn full right, it will centre pulling to the right.

I have noticed that the top deck is slightly too long and warping the bottom abit. Will be filing that down as soon as I get some time.

Just in case that doesnt fix my issue, anyone got anymore tips for things I should watch out for?

Thanks!
What servo are you using? And are you running a 13.5T motor or a lower winding?
Could be your servo is just to weak and can't stand the forces, resulting in fading or other disfunctioning...
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:09 AM   #7895
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Default balldiff

Does the TRF 416x balldiff come as a spare part or do you have to buy all the components separately? If it does, can anyone help with a part number? Thank you.
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Old 01-19-2010, 03:51 PM   #7896
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Thanks, I ve seen that a few times already....So do you guys set the diff until its not slipping anymore? (stopping both cup and try to force turn the diff pulley) I m trying to get it as smooth (less friction feel) as my friend's mentioned car above.
Sort of - it's best to set it in the car. I normally build diff up and tighten it until it holds together, then put it in the car. Hold one wheel in one hand with your index finger holding the spur so it can't move and try and turn the other wheel. If it moves, tighten the diff slightly (1/8th a turn or less) and repeat until you cant make it slip. I then run my diff in by holding one wheel so it can't turn and running the car at half throttle for 30 seconds, then recheck the tightness.

Another thing I've noticed is that now I'm using thicker diff oil my diff feels a lot tighter than it used to, even though it's actually pretty loose
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Old 01-19-2010, 05:17 PM   #7897
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Sort of - it's best to set it in the car. I normally build diff up and tighten it until it holds together, then put it in the car. Hold one wheel in one hand with your index finger holding the spur so it can't move and try and turn the other wheel. If it moves, tighten the diff slightly (1/8th a turn or less) and repeat until you cant make it slip. I then run my diff in by holding one wheel so it can't turn and running the car at half throttle for 30 seconds, then recheck the tightness.

Another thing I've noticed is that now I'm using thicker diff oil my diff feels a lot tighter than it used to, even though it's actually pretty loose
Thanks for the tips CraigM, I ll try it out soon....BTW what diff grease are you using? I know most people says Schumacher is the best....But its not available at my LHS, at the moment I m using Associated diff grease which I think is ok....also has anyone tried the Much More diff grease?
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:04 AM   #7898
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Thanks for the tips CraigM, I ll try it out soon....BTW what diff grease are you using? I know most people says Schumacher is the best....But its not available at my LHS, at the moment I m using Associated diff grease which I think is ok....also has anyone tried the Much More diff grease?
i tried muchmore diff grease, liked it but too bad my LHS never bring them in anymore. so i switched to HUDY diff grease and works fine too.
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:06 AM   #7899
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Thanks for the tips CraigM, I ll try it out soon....BTW what diff grease are you using? I know most people says Schumacher is the best....But its not available at my LHS, at the moment I m using Associated diff grease which I think is ok....also has anyone tried the Much More diff grease?
I've had trouble sourcing the Schumacher grease too

I haven't tried muchmore but if it's quite thick then it should be fine. I used the corally grease the other day and it is really good, otherwise the associated stuff isn't too bad either - I'm told the one with the red writing on the tube is the go.
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:09 AM   #7900
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What servo are you using? And are you running a 13.5T motor or a lower winding?
Could be your servo is just to weak and can't stand the forces, resulting in fading or other disfunctioning...
Hi Govert,

I've got a Hitec HS5645MG servo, using a Kimbrough #201 servo saver.

I m only running 21.5 brushless. I have a TA05 with the same servo and servo saver running a 13.5 (just for carpark bashing) and it has no problems...
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:31 AM   #7901
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I've had trouble sourcing the Schumacher grease too

I haven't tried muchmore but if it's quite thick then it should be fine. I used the corally grease the other day and it is really good, otherwise the associated stuff isn't too bad either - I'm told the one with the red writing on the tube is the go.
Look back a few pages there is a link to the site. They have them in stock.
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:57 AM   #7902
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Hi Govert,

I've got a Hitec HS5645MG servo, using a Kimbrough #201 servo saver.

I m only running 21.5 brushless. I have a TA05 with the same servo and servo saver running a 13.5 (just for carpark bashing) and it has no problems...
Switch the servo's (TA05 --> TRF416) and than see what happens. If there is no problem anymore, you are sure it is your servo that is causing the problem.

If there is still a problem, check your diff. It might be set too loose. Set your diff like the guys here described it.

And another thing could be your toe settings. How much toe on the front wheels are you driving?

Just to be clear, you are using a spool in the front, right?

And last but not least, have you glued your tires all around? This should be done very accurately...
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:06 AM   #7903
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I will leave switching servo as the last resort right now, but the other ideas I will try.

I think my rear diff is quite loose, will tighten it and try again and yeap, I am using the kit spool up front.

In regards to the tyres, yes they are glued and I had these tyres on my TA05 and they didnt have a problem.

I m really hoping it's not the servo problem, hopefully the loose rear diff would be the issue.

Also, I m running 0 toe up front. I m starting to really think it's just a dodgy servo... but when I look at it, it always seems to centre perfectly.

BTW, does anyone ever run a TRF416 with front and rear diff?

Last edited by rnd_tang; 01-20-2010 at 05:21 AM.
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:26 AM   #7904
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I will leave switching servo as the last resort right now, but the other ideas I will try.

I think my rear diff is quite loose, will tighten it and try again and yeap, I am using the kit spool up front.

In regards to the tyres, yes they are glued and I had these tyres on my TA05 and they didnt have a problem.

I m really hoping it's not the servo problem, hopefully the loose rear diff would be the issue...

BTW, does anyone ever run a TRF416 with front and rear diff?
Make sure you do not overtighten it. Just read the previous posts about diff settings very carefully.

Well, always check if your tires are glued properly, because they could loosen up quite often. Just check it every run and re-glue it when needed. Very important. But you said they're fine...

Another thing, because you mentioned you're using the same set of tires you normally use on your TA05, are your tires marked the right way? What I mean is, are you placing the front-left tire on the front-left position, rear-left on the rear-left etc....? If it's all mixed up, that could cause strange handling caracteristics as well.

And what about the toe-setting? Are you running (a lot of) toe-in at the front? Edit I saw you edited your post. 0 degrees is fine..

Well, I myself haven't seen anybody using two diffs, but there are guys out there that are. Depends on track type and conditions...
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Old 01-20-2010, 10:46 AM   #7905
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anyone use steel outdrives? My stock ones get deformed and bind the suspension movement. Heard that either the TB03 or the TA05 steel ones work. Anyone know more detail? Thanks.
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