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Old 01-13-2010, 08:57 AM   #7816
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Originally Posted by jonest View Post
Toh,

U seems like an experienced "416 breaker"

Well, I've raced the 416 for more than a year and arms are still solid!!!

Yes, I do agree that sometimes that screw could come loose so do check them occasionally.
That is how TRF can come up with improvements

Besides I got one car for bashing/racing & the other for misc testing + mods..

Back to the discussion subject, if they came out with rubber bumper & better mount. That's different keke cause eventually my wheels are protected.

Last edited by Toh WL; 01-13-2010 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:32 AM   #7817
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Who will be runing a Tamiya @ the birds ??


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Old 01-13-2010, 10:10 AM   #7818
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Who will be runing a Tamiya @ the birds ??


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Good question...Is there even a Tamiya On-Road Team in the US? Tamiya could have the TC market cornered in the US if they only got their act together like Xray. Xray has it all down from development to marketing to distribution, etc. Also, I'm not aware of any Tamiya sponsored drivers in the Mid-Atlantic region in the U.S. Are there any? Seems like all the drivers are in Cali.
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:15 AM   #7819
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Hopefully we will be seeing a lipo chassis for the 416 in a month or 2.
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:16 AM   #7820
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lutka!
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:27 AM   #7821
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Originally Posted by Brian L View Post
Hopefully we will be seeing a lipo chassis for the 416 in a month or 2.
http://www.redrc.net/2009/12/east-co...416we-chassis/





I also like Kyosho's recent idea of swapping the belts left to right and moving the electronics inwards and the battery out. You could probably work something like this out on the standard 416 chassis with little to no effort. Simply turn the 3 drivetrain components around. Then you could move the servo, speedie and receiver in further towards the center. It should be especially easy since the servo uses a widened mounting stance to begin with. May require one custom servo mount for the outside...
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:45 AM   #7822
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I don't know if that chassis will provide equal flex with it all cut out.
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:53 AM   #7823
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Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
http://www.redrc.net/2009/12/east-co...416we-chassis/





I also like Kyosho's recent idea of swapping the belts left to right and moving the electronics inwards and the battery out. You could probably work something like this out on the standard 416 chassis with little to no effort. Simply turn the 3 drivetrain components around. Then you could move the servo, speedie and receiver in further towards the center. It should be especially easy since the servo uses a widened mounting stance to begin with. May require one custom servo mount for the outside...
Because the diff and spool are in the low position you'll have to open up or notch the chassiss for clearance if you want to flip the drivetrain.

There is no TRF TC team, the best thing you can do is hawk this forum topic for information and ideas. The guys on here such as Syndrome, Try Hard, and many others are the guys that continually help out others on here, and all without any elite elusive team status. Makes one wonder why a person continues to run the product when its all privateer support with no chance of craking that egg.
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:22 AM   #7824
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Originally Posted by Stilo View Post
Final setup from DHI
Itīs kinda basic stuff for Sorex/LRP tires.

Things that I would have wanted to test at the event were:
-no shims in wheelhexes
-6mm under front ballstud
-C-C XA-Blocks
But too much to change and so few heats...

That setup doesnīt turn much, but it keeps the speed through corners better.

Some driver were traction rolling, but it wasnīt a problem for most of the drivers.
thanks for sharing!

just curious, you mentioned in your setup that you flipped the drivetrain hence moving the servo inwards and battery outwards.

when you do this, do you use custom servo mount or just secure the right side with servo mount and tape the servo down to the chassis?

thanks again
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:33 AM   #7825
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Maybe the US on-road market isn't big enough for Tamiya to care. TamiyaUSA seems to be spending most of its time on the off-road team. It's too bad, really, it seems like now more than ever, a lot of the country's better drivers are looking for a different ride.

As far as I'm concerned, this thread is the team.
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Old 01-13-2010, 12:08 PM   #7826
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just curious, you mentioned in your setup that you flipped the drivetrain hence moving the servo inwards and battery outwards.

when you do this, do you use custom servo mount or just secure the right side with servo mount and tape the servo down to the chassis?
I use the L-shape mount and "some" shims. Idea came from a friend.

When mounting the servo with non regular mountings, it seems to be really easy to tweak the whole chassis with just screwing servo post to the chassis. Try to keep an eye on that. Also it might be better to do a new hole to the chassis and use regular post also on the outside, that way you can remove the outer hole that hangs out quite far.

I took some material off the chassis under diffs to be able to put the diffs in low position. But I usually run with Xenon tires and with those, diffs high is the best option.
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Old 01-13-2010, 12:24 PM   #7827
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Stilo,

Noticed that ur running the cut top deck. Do you run this car @ DHI; on carpet? Tot u need to stiffen the chassis when running on carpet?

Thanks
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Old 01-13-2010, 12:35 PM   #7828
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Originally Posted by jonest View Post
Stilo,

Noticed that ur running the cut top deck. Do you run this car @ DHI; on carpet? Tot u need to stiffen the chassis when running on carpet?

Thanks
No need for stiffening the car, i havent tested cut and non-cut top decks back to back on lower grip (in those conditions it should give more traction), but for High grip with traction rolling etc. cut top deck works better. It makes the car smoother and a lot easier to drive and reduces the risk of traction rolling. Donīt really know why, but I think it kinda eats up the momentum and makes the cars suspension and chassis to roll, not the whole car. Other teams like Xray also uses cut top deck especially on Xenon tires that have tendency to traction roll.
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Old 01-13-2010, 03:12 PM   #7829
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Default Question about suspension blocks.

Hi,

I have a question to the Tamiya guys.

I'm currently busy with a custom project and i'm looking for some already made suspension blocks which will fit my needs.

I need a block which has centre to centre distance (for the suspension pins) of 32mm.

So if someone knows if Tamiya (or other manufacturer) has a suspension block which has that size could you let me know?.
And if so I would like to have some dimensions of the block so I can put in in Cad straight away.
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:31 PM   #7830
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Originally Posted by Apex View Post
Good question...Is there even a Tamiya On-Road Team in the US? Tamiya could have the TC market cornered in the US if they only got their act together like Xray. Xray has it all down from development to marketing to distribution, etc. Also, I'm not aware of any Tamiya sponsored drivers in the Mid-Atlantic region in the U.S. Are there any? Seems like all the drivers are in Cali.
Honestly there isn't a big on-road team for the USA unfortunately. Tamiya USA's main focus has been the development and promotion of their own 801 1/8 line, so the brunt of the sponsored drivers are running that, and the traveling budget is more focused to that program as well.

Although I do run some off-road, I am mainly focused on the on-road cars. It's rare since he is the main designer for the 801's, but every now and then there is a Dave Jun sighting on the on-road track as well.
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