R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree3Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-30-2009, 09:54 PM   #7291
Tech Elite
 
SammyZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 3,045
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

i was using Yokomo/AE ballcups but you have to use HB/HPI ballstuds.
__________________
Hotbodies USA
SweepRacing USA
SammyZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 02:39 AM   #7292
Tech Addict
 
Stein Tumert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Norway (Oslo) / Germany (Hamburg)
Posts: 556
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by veecee View Post
Because the 416 had long arms and WE had short arms. I run short arms with X-E at rear with 44mm, -1 deg camber and it clears. -1.5 deg is as far as I can go with this setup without binding.
I know that...but we all use short arms on the 416 as well.

Hebiki said the WE came with 44mm which is incorrect as it came with 42mm at the rear.

Most people here run XA and E blocks at the rear (3 degree toe in). I do that and use the 44mm on my 416 (with short arms), but it is very tight and have to shave of some material on the plastic protector for the swing shaft (which leads to the plastic breaking faster).


...
__________________
Stein Tumert
Tamiya TRF, Sanwa M12, SpeedPassion, Much More, LRP
Stein Tumert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 03:11 AM   #7293
Tech Regular
 
Blueman Austria's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 420
Default TRF Damper Shimming

Hy there!

I rebuilded my Dampers a few weeks ago, and changed the standard O-rings to the blue "competition" TRF O-rings.
During that i noticed that they are a bit smaler over all compared to the transparent ones.

After one day racing (8 batterys) i noticed that they leaking damperoil very strong!!!
I read then that tamiya advice to shim the o rings.

Now my question: Have anybody expirience with these blue TRF damper O-rings?
With wich amount of shims is the leaking Problem fixed?

Greetings Blueman
__________________
_______________________________________________________________________
TT01, F104, TRF415MSXXMRE07, TB Evo5 Exoten, TB Evo6, TRF417v7, TRF 418........
Blueman Austria is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 03:13 AM   #7294
Tech Rookie
 
lyoha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Moscow, Russian Federation
Posts: 17
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stein Tumert View Post
Hebiki said the WE came with 44mm which is incorrect as it came with 42mm at the rear.
...
WE came with 44mm at the front and 42mm at the rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
i was using Yokomo/AE ballcups but you have to use HB/HPI ballstuds.
I was using X-ray ball ends with bolt through balls all around.
__________________
Tamiya TRF-416WE - Speed Passion GT V2.0 - EPIC 10.5
BMI12RR - Sphere SSX - Vector X12 4.0
CRC Gen-X - Speed passion GT - Orion Vortex 5.5
Futaba T3VCS 2.4 FASST
lyoha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 05:48 AM   #7295
Tech Addict
 
Stein Tumert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Norway (Oslo) / Germany (Hamburg)
Posts: 556
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lyoha View Post
WE came with 44mm at the front and 42mm at the rear.
Correct.
We were talking about the rear only in this case...


...
__________________
Stein Tumert
Tamiya TRF, Sanwa M12, SpeedPassion, Much More, LRP
Stein Tumert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 07:03 AM   #7296
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,419
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default Atomic ECS update

Well after a couple of weeks of running the ECS parts I'm sad to say that one of the pins finally broke. This was running with a 17.5 only the entire time. The pins never came out as the shrink wrap worked very well.

I did notice that the outdrives that I ran (415 white plastic) seem to have stood up better than the 416 black units do, as I have hardly any noticeable notching in these compared to the stock units that seem to be worn a lot more with the same amount of track time. The only bad part about this mod, is that you have to file down the outer aluminum cups and trim a small amount of flash of the bearing side lip to get just a little free play in them.
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 08:57 AM   #7297
Tech Rookie
 
lyoha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Moscow, Russian Federation
Posts: 17
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stein Tumert View Post
Correct.
We were talking about the rear only in this case...


...
JGH talking about 46mm at the front on his WE.
__________________
Tamiya TRF-416WE - Speed Passion GT V2.0 - EPIC 10.5
BMI12RR - Sphere SSX - Vector X12 4.0
CRC Gen-X - Speed passion GT - Orion Vortex 5.5
Futaba T3VCS 2.4 FASST
lyoha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 09:21 AM   #7298
Tech Addict
 
Stein Tumert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Norway (Oslo) / Germany (Hamburg)
Posts: 556
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lyoha View Post
JGH talking about 46mm at the front on his WE.
Yes he does... that is then a replacement of the original 44mm (front) that comes with the WE kit.

...
__________________
Stein Tumert
Tamiya TRF, Sanwa M12, SpeedPassion, Much More, LRP
Stein Tumert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 09:25 AM   #7299
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by linger View Post
Hey Randy, you got a baseline setup for the KO race at WCRC?
See ya there.
I do, but it is based on Sorex tires. I've been running off-road lately, haven't been on their on-road track in months. Going to practice sometime this week and then run their grand re-opening 2 day race this weekend which will basically let me know how much time I'm spending there next week working on setups

Just a note, my setups are generally un-driveable for most, very little rear grip. Corey Lewis has a setup on the TRF site that is a lot safer, but I can post mine once I get it figured out as well if you'd like.
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 09:28 AM   #7300
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
Hy there!

I rebuilded my Dampers a few weeks ago, and changed the standard O-rings to the blue "competition" TRF O-rings.
During that i noticed that they are a bit smaler over all compared to the transparent ones.

After one day racing (8 batterys) i noticed that they leaking damperoil very strong!!!
I read then that tamiya advice to shim the o rings.

Now my question: Have anybody expirience with these blue TRF damper O-rings?
With wich amount of shims is the leaking Problem fixed?

Greetings Blueman
.2mm is a good starting point to try. Took care of the leaking for me.
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 09:41 AM   #7301
Tech Elite
 
SammyZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 3,045
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
Hy there!

I rebuilded my Dampers a few weeks ago, and changed the standard O-rings to the blue "competition" TRF O-rings.
During that i noticed that they are a bit smaler over all compared to the transparent ones.

After one day racing (8 batterys) i noticed that they leaking damperoil very strong!!!
I read then that tamiya advice to shim the o rings.

Now my question: Have anybody expirience with these blue TRF damper O-rings?
With wich amount of shims is the leaking Problem fixed?

Greetings Blueman
ditch those TRF O-rings and use HPI #6820 clear P-3 silicone O-ring. $1 for a pack of 8 and they last forever, perfect fitment.
__________________
Hotbodies USA
SweepRacing USA
SammyZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 10:22 AM   #7302
Tech Elite
 
entitymugenmtx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northridge ca
Posts: 2,117
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to entitymugenmtx
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
.2mm is a good starting point to try. Took care of the leaking for me.
Where do you add the .2mm shims so you can take care of the leak. The only thing that I shimmed was the shock shaft I put 0.1 shim under the piston and one on top of it.
__________________
SPONSORS.....MY CHECKBOOK....
entitymugenmtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 11:45 AM   #7303
Tech Regular
 
Blueman Austria's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 420
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx View Post
Where do you add the .2mm shims so you can take care of the leak. The only thing that I shimmed was the shock shaft I put 0.1 shim under the piston and one on top of it.
You add the shim (i think) between the two delrin bushings in the Damper cylinder so that the O-ring is more squeezed.
I have already ordered them. You need the 4mm ones 53586 i think.

Greetz Blueman
__________________
_______________________________________________________________________
TT01, F104, TRF415MSXXMRE07, TB Evo5 Exoten, TB Evo6, TRF417v7, TRF 418........
Blueman Austria is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 12:04 PM   #7304
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,284
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
You add the shim (i think) between the two delrin bushings in the Damper cylinder so that the O-ring is more squeezed.
I have already ordered them. You need the 4mm ones 53586 i think.

Greetz Blueman
Unless you build them as the WE method, where the O-ring is between the spacers... so then it goes against the shock body and upper spacer

HiH
Ed
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | MuchMore |
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 12:20 PM   #7305
Tech Elite
 
entitymugenmtx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northridge ca
Posts: 2,117
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to entitymugenmtx
Default

When building my shocks there are two bushing that have groves, I wanted to know which way they go on, towards the o-ring or towards the aluminum side
__________________
SPONSORS.....MY CHECKBOOK....
entitymugenmtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
TRF416 sim600 Malaysian R/C Racers 15 01-09-2010 12:08 PM
TRF416 speedart Electric On-Road 26 06-27-2007 05:28 AM
new joke cyber3d Chat Lounge 5 08-02-2006 03:52 PM
another joke, OH no! corvettecrazy Chat Lounge 0 01-10-2004 10:11 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:31 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net