Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X >

Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Like Tree4Likes

Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Reply

Old 11-30-2009, 09:54 PM
  #7291  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (138)
 
SammyZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 3,045
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

i was using Yokomo/AE ballcups but you have to use HB/HPI ballstuds.
SammyZ is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 02:39 AM
  #7292  
Tech Addict
 
Stein Tumert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Norway (Oslo) / Germany (Hamburg)
Posts: 560
Default

Originally Posted by veecee View Post
Because the 416 had long arms and WE had short arms. I run short arms with X-E at rear with 44mm, -1 deg camber and it clears. -1.5 deg is as far as I can go with this setup without binding.
I know that...but we all use short arms on the 416 as well.

Hebiki said the WE came with 44mm which is incorrect as it came with 42mm at the rear.

Most people here run XA and E blocks at the rear (3 degree toe in). I do that and use the 44mm on my 416 (with short arms), but it is very tight and have to shave of some material on the plastic protector for the swing shaft (which leads to the plastic breaking faster).


...
Stein Tumert is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 03:11 AM
  #7293  
Tech Regular
 
Blueman Austria's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 427
Default TRF Damper Shimming

Hy there!

I rebuilded my Dampers a few weeks ago, and changed the standard O-rings to the blue "competition" TRF O-rings.
During that i noticed that they are a bit smaler over all compared to the transparent ones.

After one day racing (8 batterys) i noticed that they leaking damperoil very strong!!!
I read then that tamiya advice to shim the o rings.

Now my question: Have anybody expirience with these blue TRF damper O-rings?
With wich amount of shims is the leaking Problem fixed?

Greetings Blueman
Blueman Austria is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 03:13 AM
  #7294  
Tech Rookie
 
lyoha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Moscow, Russian Federation
Posts: 17
Default

Originally Posted by Stein Tumert View Post
Hebiki said the WE came with 44mm which is incorrect as it came with 42mm at the rear.
...
WE came with 44mm at the front and 42mm at the rear.

Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
i was using Yokomo/AE ballcups but you have to use HB/HPI ballstuds.
I was using X-ray ball ends with bolt through balls all around.
lyoha is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 05:48 AM
  #7295  
Tech Addict
 
Stein Tumert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Norway (Oslo) / Germany (Hamburg)
Posts: 560
Default

Originally Posted by lyoha View Post
WE came with 44mm at the front and 42mm at the rear.
Correct.
We were talking about the rear only in this case...


...
Stein Tumert is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 07:03 AM
  #7296  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,507
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default Atomic ECS update

Well after a couple of weeks of running the ECS parts I'm sad to say that one of the pins finally broke. This was running with a 17.5 only the entire time. The pins never came out as the shrink wrap worked very well.

I did notice that the outdrives that I ran (415 white plastic) seem to have stood up better than the 416 black units do, as I have hardly any noticeable notching in these compared to the stock units that seem to be worn a lot more with the same amount of track time. The only bad part about this mod, is that you have to file down the outer aluminum cups and trim a small amount of flash of the bearing side lip to get just a little free play in them.
Johnny Wishbone is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 08:57 AM
  #7297  
Tech Rookie
 
lyoha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Moscow, Russian Federation
Posts: 17
Default

Originally Posted by Stein Tumert View Post
Correct.
We were talking about the rear only in this case...


...
JGH talking about 46mm at the front on his WE.
lyoha is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 09:21 AM
  #7298  
Tech Addict
 
Stein Tumert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Norway (Oslo) / Germany (Hamburg)
Posts: 560
Default

Originally Posted by lyoha View Post
JGH talking about 46mm at the front on his WE.
Yes he does... that is then a replacement of the original 44mm (front) that comes with the WE kit.

...
Stein Tumert is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 09:25 AM
  #7299  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (47)
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,701
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by linger View Post
Hey Randy, you got a baseline setup for the KO race at WCRC?
See ya there.
I do, but it is based on Sorex tires. I've been running off-road lately, haven't been on their on-road track in months. Going to practice sometime this week and then run their grand re-opening 2 day race this weekend which will basically let me know how much time I'm spending there next week working on setups

Just a note, my setups are generally un-driveable for most, very little rear grip. Corey Lewis has a setup on the TRF site that is a lot safer, but I can post mine once I get it figured out as well if you'd like.
Randy Caster is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 09:28 AM
  #7300  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (47)
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,701
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
Hy there!

I rebuilded my Dampers a few weeks ago, and changed the standard O-rings to the blue "competition" TRF O-rings.
During that i noticed that they are a bit smaler over all compared to the transparent ones.

After one day racing (8 batterys) i noticed that they leaking damperoil very strong!!!
I read then that tamiya advice to shim the o rings.

Now my question: Have anybody expirience with these blue TRF damper O-rings?
With wich amount of shims is the leaking Problem fixed?

Greetings Blueman
.2mm is a good starting point to try. Took care of the leaking for me.
Randy Caster is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 09:41 AM
  #7301  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (138)
 
SammyZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 3,045
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
Hy there!

I rebuilded my Dampers a few weeks ago, and changed the standard O-rings to the blue "competition" TRF O-rings.
During that i noticed that they are a bit smaler over all compared to the transparent ones.

After one day racing (8 batterys) i noticed that they leaking damperoil very strong!!!
I read then that tamiya advice to shim the o rings.

Now my question: Have anybody expirience with these blue TRF damper O-rings?
With wich amount of shims is the leaking Problem fixed?

Greetings Blueman
ditch those TRF O-rings and use HPI #6820 clear P-3 silicone O-ring. $1 for a pack of 8 and they last forever, perfect fitment.
SammyZ is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 10:22 AM
  #7302  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (81)
 
entitymugenmtx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northridge ca
Posts: 2,124
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
.2mm is a good starting point to try. Took care of the leaking for me.
Where do you add the .2mm shims so you can take care of the leak. The only thing that I shimmed was the shock shaft I put 0.1 shim under the piston and one on top of it.
entitymugenmtx is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 11:45 AM
  #7303  
Tech Regular
 
Blueman Austria's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 427
Default

Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx View Post
Where do you add the .2mm shims so you can take care of the leak. The only thing that I shimmed was the shock shaft I put 0.1 shim under the piston and one on top of it.
You add the shim (i think) between the two delrin bushings in the Damper cylinder so that the O-ring is more squeezed.
I have already ordered them. You need the 4mm ones 53586 i think.

Greetz Blueman
Blueman Austria is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 12:04 PM
  #7304  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,340
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
You add the shim (i think) between the two delrin bushings in the Damper cylinder so that the O-ring is more squeezed.
I have already ordered them. You need the 4mm ones 53586 i think.

Greetz Blueman
Unless you build them as the WE method, where the O-ring is between the spacers... so then it goes against the shock body and upper spacer

HiH
Ed
TryHard is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2009, 12:20 PM
  #7305  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (81)
 
entitymugenmtx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northridge ca
Posts: 2,124
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

When building my shocks there are two bushing that have groves, I wanted to know which way they go on, towards the o-ring or towards the aluminum side
entitymugenmtx is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service