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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 11-18-2009, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Stein Tumert View Post
Well...., Marc, Victor, Jilles runs the "junk" and not alu parts...believe they say the car works better with the plastic parts...


...


I used to run alloys c-hubs but now turned back to plastic (stiffer type)! Felt better in handling. Perhaps the alloys bent?!
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:22 AM
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Keith-

One issue that I have found is that the axles are way too long on the 416WE. They stick out past the end of the wheel (using stock hexes and no shims) and I was getting them caught on things and they were breaking. Have you tried either bigger hexes (will change the car setup) or grinding down the length of the axle?

If your boards have joints then this might be the case (axle getting caught on the joint and ripping off the C-Hub). I guess it seems possible for the traction roll to cause the break but not very likely in my experience unless the traction roll leads into a wall or something worse.
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Old 11-18-2009, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Keith Billanti View Post
@ Joe= thanks, ill take that one too. I dont think im far from yours actually- well, before Martin had be changing things.

I havnt tried 32's yet, but i think its in the future...

I am going to start fresh this weekend. I have added so much weight to the car- and its obviously not helping. SO- im taking it all out.

Complete tear down.

KB
What a guy that Martin guy is He doesn't do any back to back runs without changing something haha!
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Old 11-18-2009, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Keith Billanti View Post
@ Joe= thanks, ill take that one too. I dont think im far from yours actually- well, before Martin had be changing things.

I havnt tried 32's yet, but i think its in the future...

I am going to start fresh this weekend. I have added so much weight to the car- and its obviously not helping. SO- im taking it all out.

Complete tear down.

KB
Hey Keith,

If it helps, here's the rest of the setup i ended up on at the weekend. Deffiently would like to try a softer oil in the car now I have it not tipping onto the two wheels.

As for traction rolling, as far as I figure there's two types... car too soft (rolls into the turn, then tips over), or car too hard (Uses the sidewall of the tyre effectively as a piviot).

I really should have twigged when my bodyshell was scrapping at the weekend that my car was rolling too much, but I initially put it down to being a bit low on ride height... oops!

Still, does sound like Martin was suggestings would have worked if the car was too stiff (and after all, we all know he knows his onions...). I'd also reckon this is where the cut top decks come in too...

Anyway, hope you solve your issues

Ed

p.s. Alloy parts = ummmm, I had the same issue with nuking graphite C-hubs, tried alloy ones, and promptly bent them... so it's a case of six of one, half a dozen of the other...
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-newbury-xenons.jpg  
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Old 11-18-2009, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by artwork View Post
Keith-

One issue that I have found is that the axles are way too long on the 416WE. They stick out past the end of the wheel (using stock hexes and no shims) and I was getting them caught on things and they were breaking. Have you tried either bigger hexes (will change the car setup) or grinding down the length of the axle?

If your boards have joints then this might be the case (axle getting caught on the joint and ripping off the C-Hub). I guess it seems possible for the traction roll to cause the break but not very likely in my experience unless the traction roll leads into a wall or something worse.
hehe... I know this one.... last carpet wars, violent traction roll at the end of straight in the final, ended up going up the ramp they use for the offroaders clearing the track marker in the process!
Exit one c-hub (yes, graphite), a wobbly rear hub, and the speedo moving on the mount, pulling out the sensor cable.... doh!!! Sufice to say, end of race
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Old 11-18-2009, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by artwork View Post
Keith-

One issue that I have found is that the axles are way too long on the 416WE. They stick out past the end of the wheel (using stock hexes and no shims) and I was getting them caught on things and they were breaking. Have you tried either bigger hexes (will change the car setup) or grinding down the length of the axle?

If your boards have joints then this might be the case (axle getting caught on the joint and ripping off the C-Hub). I guess it seems possible for the traction roll to cause the break but not very likely in my experience unless the traction roll leads into a wall or something worse.
there has been races where i havn't crashed but after the race i have to clean the wood from the wheel axle ends

think that is close to the boards i think
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Old 11-18-2009, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Hey Keith,

If it helps, here's the rest of the setup i ended up on at the weekend. Deffiently would like to try a softer oil in the car now I have it not tipping onto the two wheels.

As for traction rolling, as far as I figure there's two types... car too soft (rolls into the turn, then tips over), or car too hard (Uses the sidewall of the tyre effectively as a piviot).

I really should have twigged when my bodyshell was scrapping at the weekend that my car was rolling too much, but I initially put it down to being a bit low on ride height... oops!

Still, does sound like Martin was suggestings would have worked if the car was too stiff (and after all, we all know he knows his onions...). I'd also reckon this is where the cut top decks come in too...

Anyway, hope you solve your issues

Ed

p.s. Alloy parts = ummmm, I had the same issue with nuking graphite C-hubs, tried alloy ones, and promptly bent them... so it's a case of six of one, half a dozen of the other...

Ed, are you using a HUDY setup station to do your droop settings?
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Old 11-18-2009, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Keith Billanti View Post
anyone know of a US based company that carries 4 degree castor blocks in aluminum? (3 racing or the like)

I went through 5 carbon caster blocks this past weekend.

also need spoolcups...
spool cups are available @ speedtechrc:
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=615&id=8191

contact Jeff (owner)... tell him Hebiki sent you. oh wait.. dont do that..
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Old 11-18-2009, 05:08 PM
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Default C-hubs

speedtechrc.com carries both the IFS (soft) and hard versions of the c-hub.

one can be found here:
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=618&id=7394
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
hehe... I know this one.... last carpet wars, violent traction roll at the end of straight in the final, ended up going up the ramp they use for the offroaders clearing the track marker in the process!
Exit one c-hub (yes, graphite), a wobbly rear hub, and the speedo moving on the mount, pulling out the sensor cable.... doh!!! Sufice to say, end of race
hey Ed ,

hows the car going at 1350g ??

i am looking at removing the weight from my Lipo but it is scaring me

i have removed them before and the car drove Shite to say the least

does your car work as per your set up on your site ??
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Old 11-19-2009, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Ed, are you using a HUDY setup station to do your droop settings?
Nope, I'm using a Hybrid Gauge, one of the few I've found that does 0.5mm changes... But it's the same values as the Hudy stuff

Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
hey Ed ,

hows the car going at 1350g ??

i am looking at removing the weight from my Lipo but it is scaring me

i have removed them before and the car drove Shite to say the least

does your car work as per your set up on your site ??
Car's going good, just need to make sure you get it balanced, as your right, it's a lot of lead to lose. Car does feel a lot more responsive this light, and is much easier on tyres, cells, and motors... I've got a silent car almost, no fans, and still can't get the motor above 60C!! Anyway, because I feel like showing off....
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-img_1552.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-img_1553.jpg  
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Old 11-19-2009, 12:19 PM
  #7152  
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Default new car coming

guys I sometimes follow this thread.

is there a new model coming out? I tried to find some info about it on the thread but the search engine did not find anything.

the case is i want to get one, but if there is a new model coming i will wait.

if not and there is anyone that got one in good conditions and want to trade pm me.
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Old 11-19-2009, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Fabricio View Post
guys I sometimes follow this thread.

is there a new model coming out? I tried to find some info about it on the thread but the search engine did not find anything.

the case is i want to get one, but if there is a new model coming i will wait.

if not and there is anyone that got one in good conditions and want to trade pm me.
There is a new 416X coming in a few weeks...ads for it in many places...

http://www.racingfactory.fi/products...sis-Kit-102414

http://www.planet-rc.ch/product_info...assis-Kit.html


...
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Old 11-19-2009, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Stein Tumert View Post
There is a new 416X coming in a few weeks...ads for it in many places...

http://www.racingfactory.fi/products...sis-Kit-102414

http://www.planet-rc.ch/product_info...assis-Kit.html


...
pre-orders will be taken tonight at www.speedtechrc.com
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Old 11-19-2009, 03:39 PM
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Is the TRF416 hard to tame? Drive? Setup?

I am just wondering if you will be the one who will adjust to the car or the car will follow you?

For me, so far, having difficult to understand the car's problem, for example getting or thinking why the rear kicks off when on power exiting/inside the corners.

But so far, I have kinda tamed it to my likings but it still lacks something. I am an aggressive driver when it comes to cornering.
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