Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#6841

Pics of Marc's 416X at ETS... Check how close the spur is to the rear diff pulley now!







#6842
Tech Regular

looks like he is using the 5*8mm ballconnectors in steel (or just black alu..)
where do i find the ball connectors in steel if the are availible? part number? (tired of being scared of them breaking when i get hit or hits someone)
where do i find the ball connectors in steel if the are availible? part number? (tired of being scared of them breaking when i get hit or hits someone)
#6843

416X takes 1st round of qualifying at ETS!!! 


#6848

Xray T3 

COPIED FROM REDRC about the T3
Front & rear diffs and transmission belts can be quickly & easily oriented to either the left or right side to balance the car for either LiPo or NiMH use
AND THE LINK
REDrc


COPIED FROM REDRC about the T3
Front & rear diffs and transmission belts can be quickly & easily oriented to either the left or right side to balance the car for either LiPo or NiMH use
AND THE LINK
REDrc

Last edited by syndr0me; 10-17-2009 at 08:08 PM.
#6849

Haven't the TC5 guys been flipping their belts/diffs for awhile now? Not really for lipo reason, but the've been doing it for some time to have easier access to their pinions.
#6850
Tech Addict
#6851
Tech Adept

There are alot of ideas about LIPO batteries regarding weight, chassis balance, battery position but I think the best solution is to put weights in the chassis cut outs and glue them to the battery. This was also seen on many cars at the ETS race this weekend.
Here is a proposal with Tungsten weights that have 60% more density than lead. This LIPO battery has the same weight as a 5 cell Nimh.
http://supertec.wordpress.com/2009/0...ipo-batteries/
Here is a proposal with Tungsten weights that have 60% more density than lead. This LIPO battery has the same weight as a 5 cell Nimh.
http://supertec.wordpress.com/2009/0...ipo-batteries/
#6852

There are alot of ideas about LIPO batteries regarding weight, chassis balance, battery position but I think the best solution is to put weights in the chassis cut outs and glue them to the battery. This was also seen on many cars at the ETS race this weekend.
Here is a proposal with Tungsten weights that have 60% more density than lead. This LIPO battery has the same weight as a 5 cell Nimh.
http://supertec.wordpress.com/2009/0...ipo-batteries/
Here is a proposal with Tungsten weights that have 60% more density than lead. This LIPO battery has the same weight as a 5 cell Nimh.
http://supertec.wordpress.com/2009/0...ipo-batteries/
I was getting my stainless plates here, though they've been out of stock for a while now.
#6853

Well... technicallly, thats the WE with the X prototype bits... Looks like Wilck was running the same at the ETS too, with only Marc having a full blown X.
Easily disitingusihable by the topdeck screws at the rear...
Still, shows the Tamiya's work ubber well on the rug
I keep getting told I have a cheater car...
Easily disitingusihable by the topdeck screws at the rear...

Still, shows the Tamiya's work ubber well on the rug


#6854

That's been my preferred method for a couple of years now. Since you don't have to shove a plate under the battery, you can still run the big packs and have them clear the top deck. I find shoo goo works well to secure the weights, as well as "carpet tape" since it's paper thin. Tungsten is definitely a good option, though I prefer to have some of my weight on the side of the pack to achieve proper ballast. So, I use stainless weights on the underside of the pack (usually just 4) and tungsten on the outside edge to help balance the car.
I was getting my stainless plates here, though they've been out of stock for a while now.
I was getting my stainless plates here, though they've been out of stock for a while now.

On another point entirely... I'm not convinced that flipping the belts over is needed. My reasoning is that the two heaviest electrics components (motor & Servo) can't be moved... so only moving the lighter components in isn't going to be such a help. Also, if your running a tall speedo, you'll only be able to get it in far enough to touch the top deck, which is a small gain over unflipped belts.
Fair enought the reciever can be moved a fair way, but even then, thats less than 10g (6.5g for the spektrum pro I'm using) moving closer to the centre, which will make naff all difference, because it's so close to the centreline already (thinking levers and moments here). So, IMO, is it needed? Nope...

#6855

I've had the 416 since before it was available in the states, and am now on my 3rd kit... none have ever had the misfortune of seeing an NiMH.
I agree it's likely not needed, it just seemed like it would be something interesting to try. It seems like the TRF team was able to overcome in spite of their old belt layout!

