Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#6451

Not sure on build tips, but there's a few changes I'd make for the sake of durability.
Use 46mm steel CVD's up front. Get a Parma T2 bumper (requires slight modification). Replace the ball studs in the steering rack with the kind that are used for king pins. If you're bending the blue ball studs elsewhere, get the black steel ones. Put titanium steering rods on, camber links should be okay. Get the alum servo saver horn if you use a Tamiya saver and have a few savers in your box 'cause they got sloppy after a while. Consider getting the 2pc mounts for the F/R position if you're having trouble bending the flipped block. Consider getting some aluminum or soft plastic IFS c-hubs, the stock parts seem to break a little easily.
Other than that, I suggest reading through the all the tips on TryHard's site, and watching all the Jilles videos.
Use 46mm steel CVD's up front. Get a Parma T2 bumper (requires slight modification). Replace the ball studs in the steering rack with the kind that are used for king pins. If you're bending the blue ball studs elsewhere, get the black steel ones. Put titanium steering rods on, camber links should be okay. Get the alum servo saver horn if you use a Tamiya saver and have a few savers in your box 'cause they got sloppy after a while. Consider getting the 2pc mounts for the F/R position if you're having trouble bending the flipped block. Consider getting some aluminum or soft plastic IFS c-hubs, the stock parts seem to break a little easily.
Other than that, I suggest reading through the all the tips on TryHard's site, and watching all the Jilles videos.
#6454
Tech Adept

[QUOTE=syndr0me;6310121]Not sure on build tips, but there's a few changes I'd make for the sake of durability.
Use 46mm steel CVD's up front. QUOTE]
Is it really the 46mm ?
I am also looking to getting the 416WE , and I see that the front in manual is 44mm and rear 42mm....
Part numbers 54078+54076 is what I am looking at , for the front - is it the wrong one ?
Use 46mm steel CVD's up front. QUOTE]
Is it really the 46mm ?
I am also looking to getting the 416WE , and I see that the front in manual is 44mm and rear 42mm....
Part numbers 54078+54076 is what I am looking at , for the front - is it the wrong one ?
#6455

The car comes with 44's up front, but many of us have found that if you plan to use the spool, 46's are the way to go. They sit deeper in the spool cups, and keep them from breaking. My spool cups last forever now, where before they'd break with surprising ease. I'd recommend using steel in the front since the alum bones bend very easily. The part number is 51092, and is directly compatible with the hardware that comes with your kit.
Don't just take my word for it, though. Have a look at the videos RedRC did on the 416 with Jilles, and you'll see he too prefers to use 46's up front on his new kits. He mentions it in video 4 or 5.
Don't just take my word for it, though. Have a look at the videos RedRC did on the 416 with Jilles, and you'll see he too prefers to use 46's up front on his new kits. He mentions it in video 4 or 5.
#6456
Tech Adept

The car comes with 44's up front, but many of us have found that if you plan to use the spool, 46's are the way to go. They sit deeper in the spool cups, and keep them from breaking. My spool cups last forever now, where before they'd break with surprising ease. I'd recommend using steel in the front since the alum bones bend very easily. The part number is 51092, and is directly compatible with the hardware that comes with your kit.
Don't just take my word for it, though. Have a look at the videos RedRC did on the 416 with Jilles, and you'll see he too prefers to use 46's up front on his new kits. He mentions it in video 4 or 5.
Don't just take my word for it, though. Have a look at the videos RedRC did on the 416 with Jilles, and you'll see he too prefers to use 46's up front on his new kits. He mentions it in video 4 or 5.

#6458

Hey all,
Finally got around to start building my 416 last night and made a huge mess with the CA glue.
Was just wondering what the best method is to remove it from the surface of the chassis?
Thanks.
Finally got around to start building my 416 last night and made a huge mess with the CA glue.
Was just wondering what the best method is to remove it from the surface of the chassis?
Thanks.
#6459

If you go to the hobby store, they sometimes have Ca debonder next to the CA glue selection. That stuff works wonders. If they have it, look for the stuff by bob smith industries, it seems to work the best. Just let it sit on the glue for a few min, then wipe away. You might have to reapply it, but it will get the glue off eventually and not hurt anything else.
-Korey
-Korey
#6461

Acetone removes CA pretty well. You should be able to get some at a hardware store. A lot of offroad guys soak their used mounted tyres in the stuff in order to reuse the rims.
#6462

Im looking for Marc Rhenhard or Jilles Groskamp rubber carpet setups. Cant find them anywhere. Can someone point me in the right direction.
#6463