Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#6211

All will do LiPos but the cell master is better suited for round cells.
There is a Hell in Michigan too.

#6212
#6213

Thanks to all for your replies on the split suspension mounts.
#6214
#6215

Prototype parts right now, nothing announced as far as a new part.
#6216

I was told today that the old 415 suspenion blocks are actually different to the 416 version. I never thought to check before and sure enough, an old "C" block is actually a touch wider than a new "C". So I am actually running a little bit of sweep! Was this issue ever discussed? Maybe I missed it...
#6217

I was told today that the old 415 suspenion blocks are actually different to the 416 version. I never thought to check before and sure enough, an old "C" block is actually a touch wider than a new "C". So I am actually running a little bit of sweep! Was this issue ever discussed? Maybe I missed it...

#6218

That's what I thought but the C's are definitely different. I'll try and post some pics later.
#6219
#6220

Just measured 2 B's and the new ones were 0.4mm narrower. This was measured at both outside and inside of holes. I guess that may just be tolerance. There's a bit of optical illusion at work too because there is more material around the holes on the old blocks.
#6221

I was told today that the old 415 suspenion blocks are actually different to the 416 version. I never thought to check before and sure enough, an old "C" block is actually a touch wider than a new "C". So I am actually running a little bit of sweep! Was this issue ever discussed? Maybe I missed it...

#6222


#6223

I did a lot of testing over the last two days, and one of the things I tested was using the 1pc and 2pc mounts in the F/R of the car, since I seem to have trouble bending the flipped block. If there's some change in how the two pieces flex, I couldn't feel it on the track.
I did notice that it's kind of a big hassle to shim the 2pc mounts though.
Our cars were wanting to come around at the apex of a turn on our extremely high-bite carpet, and I solved it (finally) but adding some anti-dive to resist the transfer of weight forward. It REALLY fixed the problem, but trying to shim those little mounts was almost enough to make me wanna quit. 
In other news, is anybody else taking this car to IIC? I know the European team will be there. Any chance TamiyaUSA will represent its brand? This may be the largest rubber tire race in the US in who knows how many years. It's a great time to shine.
I did notice that it's kind of a big hassle to shim the 2pc mounts though.


In other news, is anybody else taking this car to IIC? I know the European team will be there. Any chance TamiyaUSA will represent its brand? This may be the largest rubber tire race in the US in who knows how many years. It's a great time to shine.
#6224

I've also been driving the original car until the last two days, when I finally tried the WE. I had all the important bits on my old car, but I was still using the original chassis, and 2pc top deck. I experimented with the WE top deck on that car, but it always felt too stuck.
With the same setup, the new car with the batteries moved forward felt like it had a lot more steering. I'd fitted a new 2pc top deck on it, but found with this chassis, even on high grip, the 1pc consistently felt better. It's definitely an interesting tuning aid, though. Between the top deck, rear toe, anti-dive, and moving camber links up/down by 1mm, I seem to be able to tune for just about any change in track conditions. For anybody running on the rug, I'd definitely recommend grabbing Corey Whiteman's NEGS setup as a starting point, and going from there.
With the same setup, the new car with the batteries moved forward felt like it had a lot more steering. I'd fitted a new 2pc top deck on it, but found with this chassis, even on high grip, the 1pc consistently felt better. It's definitely an interesting tuning aid, though. Between the top deck, rear toe, anti-dive, and moving camber links up/down by 1mm, I seem to be able to tune for just about any change in track conditions. For anybody running on the rug, I'd definitely recommend grabbing Corey Whiteman's NEGS setup as a starting point, and going from there.
#6225

I've also been driving the original car until the last two days, when I finally tried the WE. I had all the important bits on my old car, but I was still using the original chassis, and 2pc top deck. I experimented with the WE top deck on that car, but it always felt too stuck.
With the same setup, the new car with the batteries moved forward felt like it had a lot more steering. I'd fitted a new 2pc top deck on it, but found with this chassis, even on high grip, the 1pc consistently felt better. It's definitely an interesting tuning aid, though. Between the top deck, rear toe, anti-dive, and moving camber links up/down by 1mm, I seem to be able to tune for just about any change in track conditions. For anybody running on the rug, I'd definitely recommend grabbing Corey Whiteman's NEGS setup as a starting point, and going from there.
With the same setup, the new car with the batteries moved forward felt like it had a lot more steering. I'd fitted a new 2pc top deck on it, but found with this chassis, even on high grip, the 1pc consistently felt better. It's definitely an interesting tuning aid, though. Between the top deck, rear toe, anti-dive, and moving camber links up/down by 1mm, I seem to be able to tune for just about any change in track conditions. For anybody running on the rug, I'd definitely recommend grabbing Corey Whiteman's NEGS setup as a starting point, and going from there.
can you post the set up sheets on here ???