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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 08-06-2009, 10:15 AM
  #6211  
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
is $50 for all 3 posted

do they charge lipos ??

us in the Nether world as you put it are actually up with the times running lipos and 10.5 . . . . . . . .
If anyone would like all 3 of them I will ship then anywhere for $120.00.
All will do LiPos but the cell master is better suited for round cells.

There is a Hell in Michigan too.
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Old 08-06-2009, 11:42 AM
  #6212  
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Originally Posted by Skitee View Post
Do you think there would be a difference in chassis flex if you change to the new split suspension mounts?
this mount you will in low traction track will feel it ,
in high traction maybe use lold type mount & old type upper deck 2.5mm lower deck...
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:50 PM
  #6213  
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Thanks to all for your replies on the split suspension mounts.
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Old 08-07-2009, 10:33 AM
  #6214  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Are the 20 tooth pulleys available and if so any part numbers? Do the belts have to be changed up as well? Again part numbers.
Anyone know about the above?

Thanks
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Old 08-07-2009, 11:37 AM
  #6215  
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Prototype parts right now, nothing announced as far as a new part.
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Old 08-09-2009, 01:23 AM
  #6216  
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I was told today that the old 415 suspenion blocks are actually different to the 416 version. I never thought to check before and sure enough, an old "C" block is actually a touch wider than a new "C". So I am actually running a little bit of sweep! Was this issue ever discussed? Maybe I missed it...
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Old 08-09-2009, 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by veecee View Post
I was told today that the old 415 suspenion blocks are actually different to the 416 version. I never thought to check before and sure enough, an old "C" block is actually a touch wider than a new "C". So I am actually running a little bit of sweep! Was this issue ever discussed? Maybe I missed it...
Aren't they just a bit thicker metal? I thought the width from inside the two cups was the same
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Old 08-09-2009, 03:09 AM
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That's what I thought but the C's are definitely different. I'll try and post some pics later.
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Old 08-09-2009, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by veecee View Post
That's what I thought but the C's are definitely different. I'll try and post some pics later.
Yeah i thought that too but measure from the inner side of the hole to the other hole and they are the same

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Old 08-09-2009, 04:13 AM
  #6220  
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Just measured 2 B's and the new ones were 0.4mm narrower. This was measured at both outside and inside of holes. I guess that may just be tolerance. There's a bit of optical illusion at work too because there is more material around the holes on the old blocks.
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Old 08-09-2009, 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by veecee View Post
I was told today that the old 415 suspenion blocks are actually different to the 416 version. I never thought to check before and sure enough, an old "C" block is actually a touch wider than a new "C". So I am actually running a little bit of sweep! Was this issue ever discussed? Maybe I missed it...
Ah hah! that explains a lot. I couldn't figure out where that extra half degree of toe in came from. TY veecee for figuring that out for me.
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Old 08-09-2009, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by veecee View Post
Just measured 2 B's and the new ones were 0.4mm narrower. This was measured at both outside and inside of holes. I guess that may just be tolerance. There's a bit of optical illusion at work too because there is more material around the holes on the old blocks.
At first I thought that, but now I'm not so sure, I've noticed the same myself(but thought it was just me), noticed that measuring with calipers, an old 1E block was about the same as the newer 1F block(which is most definitely wider than the newer 1E), & I am talking about measuring the holes(both the inner & outer width) themselves, not the overall width of the blocks. Might bear further scrutiny....
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Old 08-09-2009, 03:36 PM
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I did a lot of testing over the last two days, and one of the things I tested was using the 1pc and 2pc mounts in the F/R of the car, since I seem to have trouble bending the flipped block. If there's some change in how the two pieces flex, I couldn't feel it on the track.

I did notice that it's kind of a big hassle to shim the 2pc mounts though. Our cars were wanting to come around at the apex of a turn on our extremely high-bite carpet, and I solved it (finally) but adding some anti-dive to resist the transfer of weight forward. It REALLY fixed the problem, but trying to shim those little mounts was almost enough to make me wanna quit.

In other news, is anybody else taking this car to IIC? I know the European team will be there. Any chance TamiyaUSA will represent its brand? This may be the largest rubber tire race in the US in who knows how many years. It's a great time to shine.
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Old 08-09-2009, 03:43 PM
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I've also been driving the original car until the last two days, when I finally tried the WE. I had all the important bits on my old car, but I was still using the original chassis, and 2pc top deck. I experimented with the WE top deck on that car, but it always felt too stuck.

With the same setup, the new car with the batteries moved forward felt like it had a lot more steering. I'd fitted a new 2pc top deck on it, but found with this chassis, even on high grip, the 1pc consistently felt better. It's definitely an interesting tuning aid, though. Between the top deck, rear toe, anti-dive, and moving camber links up/down by 1mm, I seem to be able to tune for just about any change in track conditions. For anybody running on the rug, I'd definitely recommend grabbing Corey Whiteman's NEGS setup as a starting point, and going from there.
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Old 08-09-2009, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
I've also been driving the original car until the last two days, when I finally tried the WE. I had all the important bits on my old car, but I was still using the original chassis, and 2pc top deck. I experimented with the WE top deck on that car, but it always felt too stuck.

With the same setup, the new car with the batteries moved forward felt like it had a lot more steering. I'd fitted a new 2pc top deck on it, but found with this chassis, even on high grip, the 1pc consistently felt better. It's definitely an interesting tuning aid, though. Between the top deck, rear toe, anti-dive, and moving camber links up/down by 1mm, I seem to be able to tune for just about any change in track conditions. For anybody running on the rug, I'd definitely recommend grabbing Corey Whiteman's NEGS setup as a starting point, and going from there.
i got a couple of carpet races coming up

can you post the set up sheets on here ???
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