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06-30-2009, 08:18 AM

#5806

John St.Amant

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Quote:

Originally Posted by sidecarphil1

i run the 46mm steal shafts after i broke the alloy 44mm ones , but i havn't broken an out drive , wore one out though

my steeringg and suspension have not changed , but i use 5mm 4mm downstops

the titanium screws were heavier , i cant understand it !!!

did bend the steal screw for the front , rear suspension mount , how do i stop it happening ???

If you use a steel screw, You may make the car tougher but will more likely bend the lower suspension mount. If I were hitting things I might prefer to use the softer screw because it is cheaper to replace. I have bent one in the past.... okay , I bent two. But not on the same day.

06-30-2009, 09:54 AM

#5807

Johnny Wishbone

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jonest

I broke NONE with the 46mm but the suspension travel seems funny. I'm running 6mm (F) 5mm (R) downstop setting.

If your running a narrow front setup with 46mm shafts make sure that your not too deep into the spool cups, you may have to notch a small relieve to free up the back side of the cup. I think anything after a B/C block should be checked.

06-30-2009, 10:53 AM

#5808

jonest

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone

Now you reminded me, I'm running C/C.... no wonder it felt funny... hmmm... back to D/D or change to 44mm???

07-02-2009, 02:38 PM

#5809

AWK

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There is a new article on Tamiyausa.com explaining how David Jun measures droop on his cars. I thought it would be helpful to pass along: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=413

07-02-2009, 02:48 PM

#5810

RC MARKET

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416WE Kit back in stock !

07-02-2009, 05:16 PM

#5811

Randy Caster

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Quote:

Originally Posted by CarKing

There is a new article on Tamiyausa.com explaining how David Jun measures droop on his cars. I thought it would be helpful to pass along: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=413

Definately the best way to measure, and measuring that way you can run the same droop no matter what version car you have.

07-02-2009, 06:36 PM

#5812

John St.Amant

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Setting the droop that way also makes it easier to get that last percentage and in finer increments.

Especially When you camber is consistent. But really most accurate when the camber is set at zero degrees.

07-02-2009, 07:31 PM

#5813

LOSI123

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does anyone know if tamiya 53473 rims are flexible at all, or very stiff. thanks

07-02-2009, 08:31 PM

#5814

Randy Caster

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Quote:

Originally Posted by LOSI123

does anyone know if tamiya 53473 rims are flexible at all, or very stiff. thanks

I'd say they are somewhere in the middle, probably on the stiffer side though.

07-02-2009, 09:18 PM

#5815

LOSI123

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thanks, i have only ever had one set of tamiya rims before, they were spoked and where so stiff you could not even make them flex in your hand at all.

if this is the case then i didnt want to buy the above rims as when they are that stiff they tend to crack or chip easy if you arnt a perfect driver, lol

07-02-2009, 11:24 PM

#5816

CraigM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy Caster

Definately the best way to measure, and measuring that way you can run the same droop no matter what version car you have.

Personally I prefer using a droop gauge with blocks as they take out any inconsistencies on the bottom of your chassis like slighly protruded screws

07-03-2009, 12:59 AM

#5817

sidecarphil1

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how do you stop the droop screws chewing into the chassis plate ??

mine is wearing quite bad now and the car is only 6 months old !!!

cheeRS phil

07-03-2009, 09:08 AM

#5818

maxrcp

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gearing 416 we

Hi

i am using lrp 6.5t motor and 7,4v lipo on my 416 we.... in big track

i need something like 7.0:1 (as mentioned on my engine manual)
what gearing I have to use?

i gonna use pitch 48 on my gears!

tks

07-03-2009, 09:23 AM

#5819

sonic31

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hey phil, back in the 90's i ran 10th scale pan cars and we used very thin pieces of brass cut into small squares glued under the set screw for the plate and i know it will work for the 416 and others too... try it