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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 06-23-2009, 01:35 PM
  #5776  
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isn't shorter camber link = more camber change? more camber = more traction, right?
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Old 06-23-2009, 03:20 PM
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Shorter links also make the chassis respond quick. Sometimes too quick. So you have to be careful.
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Old 06-23-2009, 05:23 PM
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Goingfast: personally I would ignore the front holes on the hubs. These will give you crazy steering but wont free the rear up. Why don't you post your setup and we can go from there. Also is this carpet or asphalt? Without knowing your current setup or the surface, I would suggest trying less rear toe, a higher rear RC, and a shorter rear wheelbase. It could also be your shock oil, springs, hole on the tower, etc etc

Originally Posted by syndr0me
The TOP car is on the way, but I figure this is a good learning experience for any car
The rear end of the TOP feels very stuck with the box setup too
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Old 06-23-2009, 05:30 PM
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Hi Guys,
I'm taking delivery of a TRF416WE soon & was wondering if you's had any set up tips
for low grip surface, rubbers tyres, 17.5
Many thanks in Advance..
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Old 06-23-2009, 06:18 PM
  #5780  
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Originally Posted by CraigM
Goingfast: personally I would ignore the front holes on the hubs. These will give you crazy steering but wont free the rear up. Why don't you post your setup and we can go from there. Also is this carpet or asphalt? Without knowing your current setup or the surface, I would suggest trying less rear toe, a higher rear RC, and a shorter rear wheelbase. It could also be your shock oil, springs, hole on the tower, etc etc


The rear end of the TOP feels very stuck with the box setup too
hi Craig
I think I might know what's my problem....I soaked the Jack Ripper for 20min. and I noticed the steering when away after 4.00 minutes mark so I believe the front tire traction wear off and it started to push....I going to try the black paragon can next time ..... Thanks for you input
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Old 06-23-2009, 07:47 PM
  #5781  
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Originally Posted by FK05 lover
Hi Guys,
I'm taking delivery of a TRF416WE soon & was wondering if you's had any set up tips
for low grip surface, rubbers tyres, 17.5
Many thanks in Advance..
Give the box setup a shot first, you might want some HPI silver springs for the front, and blue for the rear, and build it without the .5 spacers under the rear blocks. That should give you a pretty good starting point for a low grip track.
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:41 PM
  #5782  
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Originally Posted by FK05 lover
Hi Guys,
I'm taking delivery of a TRF416WE soon & was wondering if you's had any set up tips
for low grip surface, rubbers tyres, 17.5
Many thanks in Advance..
Jim (I think),

Here's my winning setup from castle hill CC round. It'll work great in 17.5, maybe just go a little lighter on oil if you are running at night in cold temps

-Craig
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-craigm-2009-hills-cup-castle-hill-raceway-20090614.jpg  
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:49 PM
  #5783  
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Thanks Craig

Jim
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Old 06-28-2009, 09:33 PM
  #5784  
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Hello 416 owners,

I'm in the process of doing a thorough rebuild to my race ride, complete with a new WE chassis and suspension parts. When trying to mount my top-deck, it has to be finagled inside in a manner that is not so free. It's so tight that it affects the tweak of the car. The bulkhead pieces aren't new, but I didnt notice any bends when I inspected them. The top bulkhead pieces also seemed to sit flush when I installed them.

I'm thinking of sanding a litle material off the end of the top-deck, but that's a last resort.

Anyone have an experience like this or have any idea why this might occur? Before I tore the car apart, i'm pretty definite that I wasn't having this problem.

-M

Last edited by StickyFingaz; 06-28-2009 at 11:29 PM.
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Old 06-28-2009, 09:46 PM
  #5785  
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Originally Posted by StickyFingaz
Hello 416 owners,

I'm in the process of doing a thorough rebuild to my race ride, complete with a new WE chassis and suspension parts. When trying to mount my top-deck, it has to be finagled inside in a manner that is not so free. It's so tight that it affects the twek of the car. The bulkhead pieces aren't new, but I didnt notice any bends when I inspected them. The top bulkhead pieces also seemed to sit flush when I installed them.

I'm thinking of sanding a litle material off the end of the top-deck, but that's a last resort.

Anyone have an experience like this or have any idea why this might occur? Before I tore the car apart, i'm pretty definite that I wasn't having this problem.

-M
A few pictures might help us help you ...
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Old 06-28-2009, 09:51 PM
  #5786  
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Originally Posted by StickyFingaz
Hello 416 owners,

I'm in the process of doing a thorough rebuild to my race ride, complete with a new WE chassis and suspension parts. When trying to mount my top-deck, it has to be finagled inside in a manner that is not so free. It's so tight that it affects the twek of the car. The bulkhead pieces aren't new, but I didnt notice any bends when I inspected them. The top bulkhead pieces also seemed to sit flush when I installed them.

I'm thinking of sanding a litle material off the end of the top-deck, but that's a last resort.

Anyone have an experience like this or have any idea why this might occur? Before I tore the car apart, i'm pretty definite that I wasn't having this problem.

-M
I always sanded mine from the beginning. You can take off very little, it won't affect anything, and will ensure there's no binding, preventing proper flex.

I generally push straight down on both shock towers and then tighten down the top deck. This seems to do a good job of de-tweaking the chassis.
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Old 06-28-2009, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
I always sanded mine from the beginning. You can take off very little, it won't affect anything, and will ensure there's no binding, preventing proper flex.

I generally push straight down on both shock towers and then tighten down the top deck. This seems to do a good job of de-tweaking the chassis.
I usually push down on the towers as well. I just want to make sure the deck sits flatly without having to work against something though.

I've been staring at the car for awhile now and am running out of ideas. Looks like i'll be sanding just a hair off of both ends...
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:14 AM
  #5788  
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Originally Posted by StickyFingaz
Hello 416 owners,

I'm in the process of doing a thorough rebuild to my race ride, complete with a new WE chassis and suspension parts. When trying to mount my top-deck, it has to be finagled inside in a manner that is not so free. It's so tight that it affects the tweak of the car. The bulkhead pieces aren't new, but I didnt notice any bends when I inspected them. The top bulkhead pieces also seemed to sit flush when I installed them.

I'm thinking of sanding a litle material off the end of the top-deck, but that's a last resort.

Anyone have an experience like this or have any idea why this might occur? Before I tore the car apart, i'm pretty definite that I wasn't having this problem.

-M
I had the issue too, but that was because I used CA on the ends.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:05 AM
  #5789  
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Originally Posted by StickyFingaz
Hello 416 owners,

I'm in the process of doing a thorough rebuild to my race ride, complete with a new WE chassis and suspension parts. When trying to mount my top-deck, it has to be finagled inside in a manner that is not so free. It's so tight that it affects the tweak of the car. The bulkhead pieces aren't new, but I didnt notice any bends when I inspected them. The top bulkhead pieces also seemed to sit flush when I installed them.

I'm thinking of sanding a litle material off the end of the top-deck, but that's a last resort.

Anyone have an experience like this or have any idea why this might occur? Before I tore the car apart, i'm pretty definite that I wasn't having this problem.

-M
i had the exact same issue, the top deck is a tad too long. you will need to sand each corner a little at at time until the tweak issue goes away.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:27 AM
  #5790  
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It seems to me that maybe my car didn't have that problem when it was new, but developed it over time. My bulkheads all appear to be straight when I lay them on a flat surface, so maybe it's something with the chassis developing a curve over time? It always seems to tweak out fine once I tighten down the top deck with the car compressed at the shock towers. It's a shame nobody makes those chassis flattening plates for this car.
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