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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 06-22-2009, 11:56 AM
  #5761  
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Quick question relating to the steering arm....

The manual clearly says that you should centre the steering rack and have the servo saver pointing straight up.

However, on previous cars I have owned, we've always run the servo arm off-set so that when the wheels are straight and the steering rack is central, the servo arm forms a 90 degree angle with the steering link rod (ie the one connecting the servo arm to the steering rack). On the previous cars I have owned, this was to even up the steering speed left-right.

Has anyone done this on the 416?

Many thanks
Oli
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:22 PM
  #5762  
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Originally Posted by Bigger Brother View Post
Quick question relating to the steering arm....

The manual clearly says that you should centre the steering rack and have the servo saver pointing straight up.

However, on previous cars I have owned, we've always run the servo arm off-set so that when the wheels are straight and the steering rack is central, the servo arm forms a 90 degree angle with the steering link rod (ie the one connecting the servo arm to the steering rack). On the previous cars I have owned, this was to even up the steering speed left-right.

Has anyone done this on the 416?

Many thanks
Oli
ignore the manual and do it, you'll find most are doing that
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Goingfast View Post
Well still lacking in the mid turn...
I got 5mm shim spacer right now for steering ball end...should I added more spacer to what?
How would Ackerman works does Mid turn more??
Try going to X/D or even A/E on the rear toe-in, it's still 2, but you'll loosen the car up as it becomes wider. Narrowing it down, whilst making that end quicker to react, also gives it more grip, and it'll push.

Ackerman, you should never need to run more than 6mm, and thats an extreme.

Also, I would personally go to MORE shims under the inner rear link, it reduces the camber change and really helps to free up the car. Try 4mm.
Use the shims under the blocks (use 0.5mm under the both the rears, always), and outer link position to alter the roll centre.

HiH
Ed
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:49 PM
  #5764  
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Originally Posted by Goingfast View Post
Well still lacking in the mid turn...
I got 5mm shim spacer right now for steering ball end...should I added more spacer to what?
How would Ackerman works does Mid turn more??
5mm,,, thats what I've got .
Are you in the forward holes in the steering blocks ?
If not ,,, that might do it.
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:06 PM
  #5765  
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Originally Posted by Bigger Brother View Post
Quick question relating to the steering arm....

The manual clearly says that you should centre the steering rack and have the servo saver pointing straight up.

However, on previous cars I have owned, we've always run the servo arm off-set so that when the wheels are straight and the steering rack is central, the servo arm forms a 90 degree angle with the steering link rod (ie the one connecting the servo arm to the steering rack). On the previous cars I have owned, this was to even up the steering speed left-right.

Has anyone done this on the 416?

Many thanks
Oli
Honestly it doesn't matter. Even making the steering link perpendicular (90 degrees) to the servo horn will not make your steering speed even left to right. Because the link changes angle different when going left vs right, it will never be equal. All you can do is use what works for you.

I tried mock-ups in AutoCAD and couldn't find a way to get it perfect. All you can do is get it close and be good. Though I suppose 90*-to-link is much closer than perfectly straight. Perhaps this is a good question for Mr. Groskamp...
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Old 06-22-2009, 09:26 PM
  #5766  
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Try going to X/D or even A/E on the rear toe-in, it's still 2, but you'll loosen the car up as it becomes wider. Narrowing it down, whilst making that end quicker to react, also gives it more grip, and it'll push.

Ackerman, you should never need to run more than 6mm, and thats an extreme.

Also, I would personally go to MORE shims under the inner rear link, it reduces the camber change and really helps to free up the car. Try 4mm.
Use the shims under the blocks (use 0.5mm under the both the rears, always), and outer link position to alter the roll centre.

HiH
Ed
Hi Ed
I did try the X/D but not A/E on the rear toe end....I do have the .05 shim under the rear block....I did have the 4mm under the inner rear link,I thought the car roll alittle too much cause the backend stuck too much...so I took is out to roll quicker
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Old 06-22-2009, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
5mm,,, thats what I've got .
Are you in the forward holes in the steering blocks ?
If not ,,, that might do it.
Hi John
you mean the hole number 1 on the steering block?
I really don't want more steering ,just wanted free up the back of the car to rotated around the corner...Thanks
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:39 AM
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Been struggling lately to get the rear end freed up on VERY high grip carpet. Raising the inside rear camber links and reducing rear toe helped some, but it's still extremely stuck.
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:01 AM
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Try going wider in the back, either with wheel shims for a quick try or do the suspension blocks, keeping the same rear toe.

OR go narrower in the front width. I only say this as when I went from a B/C front to a D/D on carpet I ended up with a lot of push in the front, so either I freed the front too much or the back was too stuck, it was either one or the other, just have to find the happy setting.
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Old 06-23-2009, 10:09 AM
  #5770  
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Originally Posted by Goingfast View Post
Hi John
you mean the hole number 1 on the steering block?
I really don't want more steering ,just wanted free up the back of the car to rotated around the corner...Thanks
I know ... thats what dual rate is for.
Use the holes closer to the hub. Im not sure what # it is.
That will get you the ackerman you want. Just set it.. check your endpoints at 100% Dual rate and dial it out to suit your driving style.
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
I know ... thats what dual rate is for.
Use the holes closer to the hub. Im not sure what # it is.
That will get you the ackerman you want. Just set it.. check your endpoints at 100% Dual rate and dial it out to suit your driving style.
I'll give it a try next weekend ...Thanks
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:36 AM
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Anybody got a Oneway front diff for 416 fro sell ? please PM
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Goingfast View Post
Anybody got a Oneway front diff for 416 fro sell ? please PM
i got one.
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Old 06-23-2009, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Been struggling lately to get the rear end freed up on VERY high grip carpet. Raising the inside rear camber links and reducing rear toe helped some, but it's still extremely stuck.
Just run the new Top car. New car syndrome (pun intended) always feels better than old cars.

You can always shorten the rear camber links to make the rear end really tail happy. Shortening on the hub feels a lot more drastic than shortening on the bulkhead. Can also try with less front droop (higher number on droop gauge)
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Old 06-23-2009, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by linger View Post
Just run the new Top car. New car syndrome (pun intended) always feels better than old cars.

You can always shorten the rear camber links to make the rear end really tail happy. Shortening on the hub feels a lot more drastic than shortening on the bulkhead. Can also try with less front droop (higher number on droop gauge)
The TOP car is on the way, but I figure this is a good learning experience for any car.

I'll give the suggestions a try, thanks Ling and everybody else.
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