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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 05-17-2009, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Mac, thank you for the pictures.

I have a question regarding the one above though. It looks like the screw hole at the bottom of the xray C-hub is much larger than the one on the 416 hub. Can you please let me know what diameter it is? And is the one at the top (for the camber link ball) the same diameter?
Why would you want to put inferior and more expensive parts on your Tamiya? Just use the IFS front caster blocks.
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:49 PM
  #5417  
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
What 10.5s are you guys liking at the moment? I'm in the market for a new one. I've used Novak and LRP & think the Novak is better but I'm just wondering what else is out there that's good
I tried the latest Orion 10.5 recently and have to say it is definitely the fastest 10.5 I've run so far. We tested with 3 of them back to back to back and they all ran at right around the same temp and same speed. Even overgeared the hell out of one and no issues even when it rose above the 200 degree mark.
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:54 PM
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[QUOTE=niznai;5821440]And after dremeling them put them in the bin or on a shelf queen because there will be so little meat left in them, they will break instantly in a race. If you look at the xray c hubs they have a hole bigger than the entire width of the "normal" C-hubs.QUOTE]

I'm on a work computer right now so I can't see the comparism pictures shown below your post, but is the entire hole in the XRay hub necessary or could it be smaller without the LCD rubbing?
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Old 05-17-2009, 04:11 PM
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Niznai, I'll check it out later tonight. I'm hungry, I feel like tacos.... You talking about the king pin holes correct?

Randy, the hole is necessary because the LCD joint moves front to back as the car turns left to right. The Tamiya blocks have too small of a hole and do not allow this movement. If you see the pics, you'll see what I'm talking about. My first pic shows my 009 turned to the left, and the LCD joint moves forward. If I posted a pic of it turned right, you'll see how the LCD joint moves back.
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Old 05-17-2009, 05:34 PM
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Ok, sounds like it might be more work than it would be worth. I was hoping it would be possible to figure out how to make it work since it might benefit the spec class drivers using the 416. I doubt it would have made a huge difference though, and I think everyone already knows the 416 works well enough with the stock equipment
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Old 05-17-2009, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Ok, sounds like it might be more work than it would be worth. I was hoping it would be possible to figure out how to make it work since it might benefit the spec class drivers using the 416. I doubt it would have made a huge difference though, and I think everyone already knows the 416 works well enough with the stock equipment
+1
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Old 05-17-2009, 08:48 PM
  #5422  
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Niznai, I'll check it out later tonight. I'm hungry, I feel like tacos.... You talking about the king pin holes correct?
Yes
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Old 05-17-2009, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Mac, thank you for the pictures.

I have a question regarding the one above though. It looks like the screw hole at the bottom of the xray C-hub is much larger than the one on the 416 hub. Can you please let me know what diameter it is? And is the one at the top (for the camber link ball) the same diameter?
The Xray hole you may be looking at is just a recess/countersunk hole. The Xray actually uses a small kingpin. The Xray caster block kingpin holes are 4mm. The Tamiya kingpin holes are 4.5mm.
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Old 05-18-2009, 02:33 AM
  #5424  
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Thank you Mac.
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Old 05-18-2009, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
The Xray hole you may be looking at is just a recess/countersunk hole. The Xray actually uses a small kingpin. The Xray caster block kingpin holes are 4mm. The Tamiya kingpin holes are 4.5mm.
So use the x-ray top hat as well.
Not sure why you want to do that but....
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Old 05-18-2009, 04:53 AM
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Default 416 or 415

Looking to possibly make the switch to Tamiya,however we run on ozite up here,what will I have to change on the car and how much will It cost.Also my local hobby shop has had a 415msx kit for what seems like forever,what would be good price to get this kit for?Thanks
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Old 05-18-2009, 05:16 AM
  #5427  
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
Why would you want to put inferior and more expensive parts on your Tamiya? Just use the IFS front caster blocks.
Nice try. I have many Tamiya cars and one Xray. And as far as quality is concerned I don't think there is any better in the RC market than Xray (Corally is up there too). Comes at a price, but you know the law, you get what you pay for.
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Old 05-18-2009, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Looking to possibly make the switch to Tamiya,however we run on ozite up here,what will I have to change on the car and how much will It cost.Also my local hobby shop has had a 415msx kit for what seems like forever,what would be good price to get this kit for?Thanks
The original MSX kits were blown out at TamiyaUSA for $250. They currently have the MSXX-MRE-07 version (the last one) for only $310. If your on a budget, these are pretty good deals. The MSX is a double one-way setup. The MRE-07 is double direct with increased/improved flex (spools)...
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Old 05-18-2009, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Nice try. I have many Tamiya cars and one Xray. And as far as quality is concerned I don't think there is any better in the RC market than Xray (Corally is up there too). Comes at a price, but you know the law, you get what you pay for.
No.... Hudy and X-Ray overcharge so people think they are getting the best stuff when all you are doing is paying for which-ever sponsored drivers free parts. Seems to me it would be far cheaper to buy 2 kits instead of replacement parts. X-Ray parts are two or even three times what most manufacturers charge for similar parts. If the '09 was so good it would be world champ instead of Marc and a 416. Personally I feel the '09 is just an over priced orange copy of the Tamiya car. The only difference is the attachments to the chassis of the lower control arms a rotation of the servo.
Now days the 416 is about $10 more but it comes with hard anodized threaded aluminum shock bodies, nitrate coated shafts.... and for all the fellow LRP guys... BLUE IS BETTER! Even though orange is my favorite color. Just try rebuilding your CVD's. For what it costs for one barrel I can replace all the pivoting hardware on my Tamiya.
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Old 05-18-2009, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Looking to possibly make the switch to Tamiya,however we run on ozite up here,what will I have to change on the car and how much will It cost.Also my local hobby shop has had a 415msx kit for what seems like forever,what would be good price to get this kit for?Thanks
If you are running on rubber tires the kit setup in the 416WC is a great starting point. Jilles also has his setup from the '09 DHI cup on TryHard's website (thard.co.uk) which would be another great starting point.
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