JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Not only is the pin end/ball larger, but the pins are longer. So not only would you have to dremel out the drive cups, but you would have to cut down the XRay pins to fit within the aluminum sleeves on the outdrives. And you have to be precise on dremeling out the outdrives/cups. You don't want it slightly off center. Another issue you will be faced with is the LCD joint size. The XRay caster blocks has a huge opening to allow the LCD to float in the caster block. The Tamiya caster blocks have tiny openings. So the LCD may not even work with Tamiya caster blocks. Sooo, if you were to dremel down the outdrive/cups, and cut down the XRay pins, you would have to run XRay front suspension as well.

adamge

iTrader: (1)

I don't think going with Xray C-hubs is a good idea. Those extra 10deg of flex caster might be half the key to the 416's speed.

John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

Can't wait for the LRP 5300 40c packs to come out.
#79868

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

It looks like it's still a 2mm pin, so basically it would be easy to just push the pin out, spin the driveshaft in a dremel or anything that it would work in, and sand the ball down while the shaft is spinning. Then just push in a Tamiya 2x10mm pin and it would be fine. Might have to bring the dremel back out for the caster blocks though.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Gotta love the battery wars. I still have yet to be out motored with my Orion equipment and 5000 20c batteries or 3800 30c packs...

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

is the rear ball diff in this car supposed to be crunchy even when its fresh?

niznai

And after dremeling them put them in the bin or on a shelf queen because there will be so little meat left in them, they will break instantly in a race. If you look at the xray c hubs they have a hole bigger than the entire width of the "normal" C-hubs.

I have found that problem on new xray diffs bought as spares and when I pulled them apart I found they had little grease if at all. I washed and prepped them as per my usual assembly technique and the problem went away.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

LOL, it's true! I shall call it, "caster gain."

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I think the XRay LCD conversion would be a lost cause unless if you switched the whole front suspension to XRay. Here are some pics...

My 009 showing the LCD and large hole caster block. Don't mind the tires...


XRay vs. Tamiya 416 caster block. Can't switch caster blocks either because XRay uses larger suspension pin for the caster block.


XRay ball end (6.8mm) vs. Tamiya ball end (5.8mm)


XRay LCD installed on 416 caster block and steering hub. Notice there is no room for the LCD to function.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

What 10.5s are you guys liking at the moment? I'm in the market for a new one. I've used Novak and LRP & think the Novak is better but I'm just wondering what else is out there that's good

John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

Fantom ION or Tekin are very nice too but I think the speedo is more of a factor than the power plant.

I wish Novak would make the Ballistic series in a 10.5 or even 13.5.
I love the stepped can sensor location.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

That could be, but I did notice that Martins car was running aluminum c-hubs at the Fastcats race, so maybe not.

niznai

Mac, thank you for the pictures.

I have a question regarding the one above though. It looks like the screw hole at the bottom of the xray C-hub is much larger than the one on the 416 hub. Can you please let me know what diameter it is? And is the one at the top (for the camber link ball) the same diameter?

adamge

iTrader: (1)

Oh, good point.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Well if you ran a proper one it wouldn't...