4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
05-15-2009, 02:59 AM
#5371
I know that LCD's are said to have more steering than a normal universal or CVD, but it doesn't really work like that. Because they smooth out the joint so much, it actually tends to smooth out the response feeling and take a bit of initial steering away. I admit that I would like to give them a shot to see how they feel on the 416, but I'm sure I already know the answer.
What is the part # for the softer IFS C-Hubs?
What is the part # for the softer IFS C-Hubs?
05-15-2009, 10:58 AM
#5374
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
To elaborate on that, you need to drill about a 1mm hole in the plastic shock cap. This will reduce the rebound to just a couple mm.
05-15-2009, 11:58 AM
#5375
From what I've been doing, right around 1mm seems to work fine, it doesn't have to be exact, but close would be good.
Start off without the foam, you can use it if you want to get more rebound in the shock though (or o-rings for something thinner that will produce less rebound)
I build the shocks with the shaft all of the way pulled out, and once assembled I see how much rebound they have. If they have too much, I take a 2.5mm hex driver and push down on one side of the bladder lightly so that oil will bleed from the other side of the bladder. You can control how much oil will escape this way and can match pairs of shocks fairly easy this way as well. Building the shock with the shaft pushed in is fine as well, I just have never really built them like that personally (but I'm an asphalt guy, so I normally want full rebound out of the shock)
Start off without the foam, you can use it if you want to get more rebound in the shock though (or o-rings for something thinner that will produce less rebound)
I build the shocks with the shaft all of the way pulled out, and once assembled I see how much rebound they have. If they have too much, I take a 2.5mm hex driver and push down on one side of the bladder lightly so that oil will bleed from the other side of the bladder. You can control how much oil will escape this way and can match pairs of shocks fairly easy this way as well. Building the shock with the shaft pushed in is fine as well, I just have never really built them like that personally (but I'm an asphalt guy, so I normally want full rebound out of the shock)
05-15-2009, 12:46 PM
#5376
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Thanks, gonna order a couple of those since I might need some extra steering on the rug now.
It's great you guys are getting a carpet track out there finally. We keep stealing racers from California and Florida and have to train them on the rug.
05-15-2009, 02:38 PM
#5379
http://www.geocities.jp/hobby_show_a...a2009/0276.htm
New shock towers? I didn't spot much else. You guys see any other 416 stuff?
http://www.geocities.jp/hobby_show_a...2009/index.htm
New shock towers? I didn't spot much else. You guys see any other 416 stuff?
http://www.geocities.jp/hobby_show_a...2009/index.htm
05-15-2009, 04:30 PM
#5380
Originally Posted by Brian L
The LCD's should let the car carry more corner speed and not bind it up in the corner. In mod it might not be as big of a difference as in the slower classes.
05-16-2009, 09:51 AM
#5385
Tech Regular
Hey guys, im from Brazil and jut got the new trf 416 worlds! Here in Brazil nobody races with this car, so i need some helps!
Here we run with X11 9.5T motors, with lipos or/and 6 cell nimh batts!
I would like to know which hop up parts i need to buy?
which parts broken a lot or need to be replaced more often?
we race at outdoors asphalt medium grip tracks.
tks a lot
Here we run with X11 9.5T motors, with lipos or/and 6 cell nimh batts!
I would like to know which hop up parts i need to buy?
which parts broken a lot or need to be replaced more often?
we race at outdoors asphalt medium grip tracks.
tks a lot
