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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 02-26-2009, 03:12 AM
  #4546  
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Hi,

Regarding the servosaver: I don't understand your problems!

Marc, Jilles, Victor, Kiyo and Maezumi are using the 51000 Standard one + the alloy saver from Square " TGE-22TB - not TGE-23TB!!!" (the Tamiya one is a little bit shorter - so you will loose some max turining angle). I am also using the Square one and I never had problems with loose or too soft springs. The car is running the same direction which I desire by turning my steering-wheel of my radio.
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:31 AM
  #4547  
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Originally Posted by Hebiki View Post
i recently had really bad wander on my car... then i switched from the tamiya white.. to the tamiya black with the aluminum middle piece and the wandering issues went away.

+1
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Old 02-26-2009, 06:21 AM
  #4548  
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Hi,

My name is Joan and I'm from Spain. I'm going to run this year with 10,5 SP Stock motor and Lipo batteries, but I don't know what to buy. My car is a 416 WE, weight limit 1350g and Lipos may be in BRCA list. I've seen popular lipos are( And fits in 416WE ) :
- 2S SMC 5000 40C (105)
- 2S TP 5000 50C (100)
- 2S Hyperion 4000 35C (80)
- 2S Orion 3800 30C (75)
- 2S IP 3800 35C (55)

It's really needed to buy a 40C lipo? How big is the diference?

Another question. Rear Diff. loses grease while race, I can see grease in chassis and pulley. There is some fix about it?

Thank you.

P.D.: Sorry about my poor english :_
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Old 02-26-2009, 08:28 AM
  #4549  
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Originally Posted by JuaniKoKo View Post
Hi,

My name is Joan and I'm from Spain. I'm going to run this year with 10,5 SP Stock motor and Lipo batteries, but I don't know what to buy. My car is a 416 WE, weight limit 1350g and Lipos may be in BRCA list. I've seen popular lipos are( And fits in 416WE ) :
- 2S SMC 5000 40C (105€)
- 2S TP 5000 50C (100€)
- 2S Hyperion 4000 35C (80€)
- 2S Orion 3800 30C (75€)
- 2S IP 3800 35C (55€)

It's really needed to buy a 40C lipo? How big is the diference?

Another question. Rear Diff. loses grease while race, I can see grease in chassis and pulley. There is some fix about it?

Thank you.

P.D.: Sorry about my poor english :_
Actually, you have better english than some of the people I work with!

Diff grease, what grease are you using? You might be using too much grease. But it will be normal to see grease on the chassis after you run the car. A lot of us are using diff stickers to keep dirt out of our diffs. Maybe you can try that. Tamiya sells them, or you can make your own.

Batteries, everyone has their own opinions on batteries. I would say go with the SMC or TP. C rating is not a constant rating between all batteries. At least not yet I do not think. But a 40C SMC battery vs. a 24C SMC battery, the 40C should be better/stronger/more durable battery. Pick the battery that best fits your chassis and meets your weight without having to add extra weight. You should have no problem with a 1350g minimum.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-26-2009, 08:53 AM
  #4550  
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Originally Posted by JuaniKoKo View Post
Hi,

My name is Joan and I'm from Spain. I'm going to run this year with 10,5 SP Stock motor and Lipo batteries, but I don't know what to buy. My car is a 416 WE, weight limit 1350g and Lipos may be in BRCA list. I've seen popular lipos are( And fits in 416WE ) :
- 2S SMC 5000 40C (105)
- 2S TP 5000 50C (100)
- 2S Hyperion 4000 35C (80)
- 2S Orion 3800 30C (75)
- 2S IP 3800 35C (55)

It's really needed to buy a 40C lipo? How big is the diference?

Another question. Rear Diff. loses grease while race, I can see grease in chassis and pulley. There is some fix about it?

Thank you.

P.D.: Sorry about my poor english :_
yes .. good english! 1350 grams et? Thats pretty light.
Those rules are making it almost impossible to ballence the car from side to side. run the smallest servo that can handle a T/C , the lightest possible reciever and speedo. But I would reconend the heaviest battery which will be either the SMC or the TP 5000's. I think thats way too light . 1450 g. should be good enough for rubber and still be balenced. Maybe 1350 would be good for foam, but foam is for pan cars. Good luck.
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Old 02-26-2009, 09:06 AM
  #4551  
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That cardboard trick works fine for the tamiya servo saver. no slop.
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Old 02-26-2009, 11:40 AM
  #4552  
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Thinking of finally getting into Lipos, but there are so many dimensions that I'm not sure which one to get. Don't want to be stuck with a batt that doesn't fit the 416. Do I need to get something like this:

http://www.redrc.net/2008/05/bittyde...-battery-tray/

What would be max dimensions that the 416 can house?

Thanks
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Old 02-26-2009, 12:22 PM
  #4553  
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If you want to find one you know will fit under the top deck, and still give you many MM of clearance for a tray, the SMC 4000's (top wire) are quite nice. You can make some of the 5000mah packs work, but not with a tray underneath. Your best bet there would be to get some weights the shape of the cutouts in the chassis and shoo goo them to the bottom of your packs.
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Old 02-26-2009, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
If you want to find one you know will fit under the top deck, and still give you many MM of clearance for a tray, the SMC 4000's (top wire) are quite nice. You can make some of the 5000mah packs work, but not with a tray underneath. Your best bet there would be to get some weights the shape of the cutouts in the chassis and shoo goo them to the bottom of your packs.
Amen!
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Old 02-26-2009, 01:47 PM
  #4555  
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Lipos:
I'm using the bitty design tray and it's a nice solution for too tall lipos. My car is perfectly balanced side to side with the SMC 5200 40C. As for the C rating, in 10.5 I cant tell the difference either in feel or on the time sheets between the 40C and the 28C, so as long as you stick to a top brand (SMC, ThunderPower, Trakpower) and around 30C you should have plenty of punch

Servo saver:
The issue isnt with the slop, its with the Tamiya saver (even with the square insert) not re-centering after a hit. Mine is ~8 months old so i'll replace the springs and see if there is any thing else that is causing the problem, but for now the kimbrough is working fine... remember I run mainly on low bite asphalt so the surface has less leverage on the saver than you guys running on the rug
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Old 02-26-2009, 02:03 PM
  #4556  
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Lipos:
I'm using the bitty design tray and it's a nice solution for too tall lipos. My car is perfectly balanced side to side with the SMC 5200 40C. As for the C rating, in 10.5 I cant tell the difference either in feel or on the time sheets between the 40C and the 28C, so as long as you stick to a top brand (SMC, ThunderPower, Trakpower) and around 30C you should have plenty of punch

Servo saver:
The issue isnt with the slop, its with the Tamiya saver (even with the square insert) not re-centering after a hit. Mine is ~8 months old so i'll replace the springs and see if there is any thing else that is causing the problem, but for now the kimbrough is working fine... remember I run mainly on low bite asphalt so the surface has less leverage on the saver than you guys running on the rug
does the SMC 5200 40C fit under the top deck? or is using the lipo tray the only way to get it under there short of hacking away at the top deck?
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Old 02-26-2009, 03:22 PM
  #4557  
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
does the SMC 5200 40C fit under the top deck? or is using the lipo tray the only way to get it under there short of hacking away at the top deck?
if thats the pack you want to run and it doesnt fit, get an offset battery tray . They really do exist!
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Old 02-26-2009, 04:26 PM
  #4558  
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Thank you very much guys for all responses. I will try to get stickers for diff. and about lipos, let's search some SMC Batteries : )
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Old 02-26-2009, 04:39 PM
  #4559  
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The Manutech t2-008 brass try fits in the 416 and in the 416wc with
alittle mod...
that what I use and I use the new smc 5200-40c and the thunder power 40c
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Old 02-26-2009, 04:50 PM
  #4560  
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Servo saver:
The issue isnt with the slop, its with the Tamiya saver (even with the square insert) not re-centering after a hit.
I had the same issue and the solution is:

Take out the 3 metal springs and you will find when put together without the springs that there is a bit of binding than normal between the 2 main parts of the servo saver as the circle tends to warp during a smash. You just need to sand abit the plastic portion that inserts into the other side to remove binding.

I used a few drops of metal polisher (brasso) in the area where its binding, I then attached the plastic side with servo spline to a drill/dremel and holding the other half with my hand. I did a few 10 seconds spins until I got no binding.

or

You can just buy a new servo saver.
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