4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
02-15-2009, 09:59 PM
#4426
Originally Posted by kschu
guys, need some urgent help here...
how to balance left n right weight after u change to LIPO?
how to balance left n right weight after u change to LIPO?
Make slugs to fit the battery holes in the chassis.
Glue them to the battery. They will also help keep the pack in place.
I highly recomend brass. But tungsten is heavier. You are going to need approximately 110 grams to get it up to weight depending on what electronics you are using. Try to keep the bottom of the chassis smooth and the weight low.
02-15-2009, 11:24 PM
#4427
Originally Posted by CraigM
I always run it outdoors with my 10.5, but I'd be interested to know how a motor temps with and without it at the same gearing. I was told by a friend that it makes about a 20 degree difference, so that would let you gear up around 2 extra teeth on the pinion compared to running without the fan. I'm getting a new speedo and motor this week so I might do some testing when they arrive
This is the exact same findings I found when I did a back to back test. It gets pretty hot out here at times and that extra 20 degrees helps the motor. True you could gear up but if you're not hurting for power or top end speed why gear up?
02-15-2009, 11:57 PM
#4428
Originally Posted by John St.Amant
Get a 5000mah 40c battery.. About 300 grams worth of batteries.
Make slugs to fit the battery holes in the chassis.
Glue them to the battery. They will also help keep the pack in place.
I highly recomend brass. But tungsten is heavier. You are going to need approximately 110 grams to get it up to weight depending on what electronics you are using. Try to keep the bottom of the chassis smooth and the weight low.
Make slugs to fit the battery holes in the chassis.
Glue them to the battery. They will also help keep the pack in place.
I highly recomend brass. But tungsten is heavier. You are going to need approximately 110 grams to get it up to weight depending on what electronics you are using. Try to keep the bottom of the chassis smooth and the weight low.
02-16-2009, 02:08 AM
#4429
Originally Posted by kschu
do u have some picture to show me ? i'm not very good on this thing.....thanks
then i distribute the remaining weight i need to add evenly around the car.
so for example.. if im 28grams short.. ill take 4 pieces of lead weight that is 7grams each.. put two in the rear...two in the front.
also, if your battery is significantly lighter than your electronics side... try getting this:
http://www.ppdbillet.com/RC_accessories.html
there are two small areas you need to dremel (for the motor mount brace and servo holder)...and it fits like a glove underneath your battery.
02-16-2009, 02:09 AM
#4430
Originally Posted by kschu
do u have some picture to show me ? i'm not very good on this thing.....thanks
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4161632-post118.html
02-16-2009, 09:28 AM
#4431
Originally Posted by Hebiki
the ppd billet plate on a 416:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4161632-post118.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/4161632-post118.html
02-16-2009, 11:08 AM
#4432
Originally Posted by Hebiki
what i do to balance my car is... i weigh all my electronics... then weigh my battery. i add weight to the side that is lighter.
then i distribute the remaining weight i need to add evenly around the car.
so for example.. if im 28grams short.. ill take 4 pieces of lead weight that is 7grams each.. put two in the rear...two in the front.
also, if your battery is significantly lighter than your electronics side... try getting this:
http://www.ppdbillet.com/RC_accessories.html
there are two small areas you need to dremel (for the motor mount brace and servo holder)...and it fits like a glove underneath your battery.
then i distribute the remaining weight i need to add evenly around the car.
so for example.. if im 28grams short.. ill take 4 pieces of lead weight that is 7grams each.. put two in the rear...two in the front.
also, if your battery is significantly lighter than your electronics side... try getting this:
http://www.ppdbillet.com/RC_accessories.html
there are two small areas you need to dremel (for the motor mount brace and servo holder)...and it fits like a glove underneath your battery.
Looks great there, where can we get one??? But lipo nowadays come with groove...
02-16-2009, 01:52 PM
#4433
Originally Posted by jonest
Looks great there, where can we get one??? But lipo nowadays come with groove...
02-16-2009, 07:21 PM
#4434
Originally Posted by STLNLST
True you could gear up but if you're not hurting for power or top end speed why gear up?
02-17-2009, 12:19 AM
#4436
Originally Posted by CraigM
I've been running the LRP stock spec 10.5, which is pretty torquey but doesn't have the RPM of the novak, so I normally find myself quickest when geared up as it has the torque to pull through the infield with a tall ratio. I believe my novak and spx speedo arrived so I'll be gearing right down, and if I can achieve similar top end without having to cop the weight of the fan on the ESC side I'll be
02-17-2009, 06:53 AM
#4437
My TRF 416 WE!!!
My Trf 416 WE NEW MACHINE!!! 
02-17-2009, 04:23 PM
#4438
I finally got the 416 dialed in, the car handles amazing!!! In the final this weekend I was doing really good but half way through the race I noticed the car handling weird
earlier in the day the Steering post screw backed out and was not letting the car to compress, I fixed that and lock-tighted all the other bottom screws. but in the final "3" top deck screws in the rear section almost backed all the way out. I'm a pretty strong guy and sometimes over tighten screws, I think with the added flex it caused the screws to work its way loose. I've since put loc-tite on all the screws on the car(blue loc-tite) so this never happens again. can't wait till next race and drive the car again
earlier in the day the Steering post screw backed out and was not letting the car to compress, I fixed that and lock-tighted all the other bottom screws. but in the final "3" top deck screws in the rear section almost backed all the way out. I'm a pretty strong guy and sometimes over tighten screws, I think with the added flex it caused the screws to work its way loose. I've since put loc-tite on all the screws on the car(blue loc-tite) so this never happens again. can't wait till next race and drive the car again
02-17-2009, 05:59 PM
#4439
Originally Posted by dameetz
Just want to share my joy with you guys. I TQed and won the A main driving this car during. It was my first electric TC race in an indoor carpet track with control tyres. The car was spot on from the very first I drove it. I m the only one driving a Tamiya in the A main which surrounded by XRay T2009 and yet I won. I m really loving this car.
Originally Posted by bigkoitat
I finally got the 416 dialed in, the car handles amazing!!!
02-18-2009, 03:26 AM
#4440
Do other people have issues with the steering alignment going out in even small bumps? Whenever I tag a barrier, I often have to give my trim a couple of clicks to get the car to go straight again. I thought it might have been the servo saver so switched to the square alloy insert, so now its either the servo or radio, or it's the ackerman screws bending slightly 
