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Old 01-28-2009, 01:45 PM   #4216
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i'm touch Marc , Hara ... car ,
all car is around 2mm flow only ,
isn't posted in setup sheet data !
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Old 01-28-2009, 01:54 PM   #4217
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
what happened there is that you "rode the droop screw" I've had it a few times before, where basically, as you go through a corner highly loaded, and then try and turn some more, the inside suspension hits the droop screw, which rapidly unloads the tyre causing the car to snap round.

Droop is basically a compromise, between running enough so you generate enough weight transfer, (so you don't ride the screws), and not so much that you have huge amounts of weight transfer... it seems that between 4-6mm on a gauge is pretty much the range to be working in on the 416

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Ed
That makes sense, never thought about it that way. I'm not sure exactly how much droop I am running, don't have the tools to measure. Thanks for the great info though, I'm learning a lot here.
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Old 01-28-2009, 02:05 PM   #4218
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Im pretty sure he said he put the thicker shim in back of the front .. But whatever ...
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Old 01-28-2009, 02:18 PM   #4219
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Im pretty sure he said he put the thicker shim in back of the front .. But whatever ...
Yup, he did... in italics below

Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM
Last night I made the following changes:
  • Raised the front rc and added some anti dive (.5 under the front front block and 1mm under the front rear)
  • Put the HPI blue springs on the rear
  • Went from 400wt to 450wt oil all around, with 2mm rebound and no foam spacers
  • Shortened the rear wheelbase by 1.5mm
So with 0.5mm on the FF block, and 1mm FR block, that gives 0.5mm differnce in height, with the front arm pointing down at the front. That's Anti-Dive like I said before.
Kick-up is the opposite... whereas on the rear, the front of the arm pointing up is Anti-squat, pointing down is Pro-Squat.
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Old 01-28-2009, 02:24 PM   #4220
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Yup, he did... in italics below



So with 0.5mm on the FF block, and 1mm FR block, that gives 0.5mm differnce in height, with the front arm pointing down at the front. That's Anti-Dive like I said before.
Kick-up is the opposite... whereas on the rear, the front of the arm pointing up is Anti-squat, pointing down is Pro-Squat.
LOL my bad.
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Old 01-28-2009, 03:34 PM   #4221
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Your problem Craig may be to much roll in the rear causing roll oversteer.

Try a rear rollbar the same thickness as the front bar, this will enable you to run softer springs allround.

Your setup seemed fine as it was try the rear bar you will be surprised.
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Old 01-29-2009, 12:32 AM   #4222
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Hey Guys,
Is it just me, or is the 416WE build quality something we're not used to from Tamiya? The carbon chassis looks ugly, the diff joints don't look polished and the blue anodizing looks different. Is it just my kit? My TA05MS looks much cleaner and refined. Just curious.
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Old 01-29-2009, 04:41 AM   #4223
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Thanks for the help guys, I'll let you know how I go

Ed: A full mm is a big change but that was from a pretty long setting. I'll keep in mind what you said about the shock angles and give that a whirl too, I used to run them much more upright (at the rear anyway) but have been running them nitro stylez lately
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:13 AM   #4224
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Originally Posted by ittjv View Post
Hey Guys,
Is it just me, or is the 416WE build quality something we're not used to from Tamiya? The carbon chassis looks ugly, the diff joints don't look polished and the blue anodizing looks different. Is it just my kit? My TA05MS looks much cleaner and refined. Just curious.
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No its not just you mate, mine also like that, I too was a bit disappointed with the carbon cutting quality of this kit its just not as clean as my MS. However I m very happy for the parts fit with this one coz its not as sloppy as my MS where I have to shim the thing out almost everywhere.
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Old 01-29-2009, 09:25 AM   #4225
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The fitment on my kit was extremely good as well. As for the rough edges, I sand all my CF anyway so it didn't make a difference, didnt take much sanding at all to smooth them out.
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Old 01-29-2009, 10:42 AM   #4226
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The fitment on my kit was extremely good as well. As for the rough edges, I sand all my CF anyway so it didn't make a difference, didnt take much sanding at all to smooth them out.

Did you completely finish building it yet? Where's the pics? Next time just have Numan build it.....LOL
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:33 PM   #4227
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What is a fair price for a gentally used 416 roller?
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Old 01-29-2009, 02:12 PM   #4228
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What is a fair price for a gentally used 416 roller?
Anywhere between 150 and 200 ... maybe more if its still tight.
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Old 01-29-2009, 02:46 PM   #4229
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Did you completely finish building it yet? Where's the pics? Next time just have Numan build it.....LOL
Pics are already a couple pages back!

Just waiting on wire to arrive so I can get the ESC wired up, and my transponder should be here any day now.
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Old 01-29-2009, 03:33 PM   #4230
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Pics are already a couple pages back!

Just waiting on wire to arrive so I can get the ESC wired up, and my transponder should be here any day now.
Those pics weren't complete. Put some wheels on that puppy....or was I looking at the wrong one's????
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