4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
01-28-2009, 12:45 PM
#4216
i'm touch Marc , Hara ... car ,
all car is around 2mm flow only ,
isn't posted in setup sheet data !
all car is around 2mm flow only ,
isn't posted in setup sheet data !
01-28-2009, 12:54 PM
#4217
what happened there is that you "rode the droop screw" I've had it a few times before, where basically, as you go through a corner highly loaded, and then try and turn some more, the inside suspension hits the droop screw, which rapidly unloads the tyre causing the car to snap round.
Droop is basically a compromise, between running enough so you generate enough weight transfer, (so you don't ride the screws), and not so much that you have huge amounts of weight transfer... it seems that between 4-6mm on a gauge is pretty much the range to be working in on the 416
HiH
Ed
Droop is basically a compromise, between running enough so you generate enough weight transfer, (so you don't ride the screws), and not so much that you have huge amounts of weight transfer... it seems that between 4-6mm on a gauge is pretty much the range to be working in on the 416
HiH
Ed
01-28-2009, 01:05 PM
#4218
Im pretty sure he said he put the thicker shim in back of the front .. But whatever ...
01-28-2009, 01:18 PM
#4219
Originally Posted by CraigM
Last night I made the following changes:
- Raised the front rc and added some anti dive (.5 under the front front block and 1mm under the front rear)
- Put the HPI blue springs on the rear
- Went from 400wt to 450wt oil all around, with 2mm rebound and no foam spacers
- Shortened the rear wheelbase by 1.5mm
Kick-up is the opposite... whereas on the rear, the front of the arm pointing up is Anti-squat, pointing down is Pro-Squat.
01-28-2009, 01:24 PM
#4220
Yup, he did... in italics below
So with 0.5mm on the FF block, and 1mm FR block, that gives 0.5mm differnce in height, with the front arm pointing down at the front. That's Anti-Dive like I said before.
Kick-up is the opposite... whereas on the rear, the front of the arm pointing up is Anti-squat, pointing down is Pro-Squat.
So with 0.5mm on the FF block, and 1mm FR block, that gives 0.5mm differnce in height, with the front arm pointing down at the front. That's Anti-Dive like I said before.
Kick-up is the opposite... whereas on the rear, the front of the arm pointing up is Anti-squat, pointing down is Pro-Squat.
01-28-2009, 02:34 PM
#4221
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (22)
Your problem Craig may be to much roll in the rear causing roll oversteer.
Try a rear rollbar the same thickness as the front bar, this will enable you to run softer springs allround.
Your setup seemed fine as it was try the rear bar you will be surprised.
Try a rear rollbar the same thickness as the front bar, this will enable you to run softer springs allround.
Your setup seemed fine as it was try the rear bar you will be surprised.
01-28-2009, 11:32 PM
#4222
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Hey Guys,
Is it just me, or is the 416WE build quality something we're not used to from Tamiya? The carbon chassis looks ugly, the diff joints don't look polished and the blue anodizing looks different. Is it just my kit? My TA05MS looks much cleaner and refined. Just curious.
- JV
Is it just me, or is the 416WE build quality something we're not used to from Tamiya? The carbon chassis looks ugly, the diff joints don't look polished and the blue anodizing looks different. Is it just my kit? My TA05MS looks much cleaner and refined. Just curious.
- JV
01-29-2009, 03:41 AM
#4223
Thanks for the help guys, I'll let you know how I go
Ed: A full mm is a big change but that was from a pretty long setting. I'll keep in mind what you said about the shock angles and give that a whirl too, I used to run them much more upright (at the rear anyway) but have been running them nitro stylez lately
Ed: A full mm is a big change but that was from a pretty long setting. I'll keep in mind what you said about the shock angles and give that a whirl too, I used to run them much more upright (at the rear anyway) but have been running them nitro stylez lately
01-29-2009, 07:13 AM
#4224
Hey Guys,
Is it just me, or is the 416WE build quality something we're not used to from Tamiya? The carbon chassis looks ugly, the diff joints don't look polished and the blue anodizing looks different. Is it just my kit? My TA05MS looks much cleaner and refined. Just curious.
- JV
Is it just me, or is the 416WE build quality something we're not used to from Tamiya? The carbon chassis looks ugly, the diff joints don't look polished and the blue anodizing looks different. Is it just my kit? My TA05MS looks much cleaner and refined. Just curious.
- JV
01-29-2009, 01:12 PM
#4228
