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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 01-14-2009, 05:54 PM
  #3991  
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Originally Posted by Hebiki
i wish tamiya would release alum. rear hubs. thats my biggest problem is the ball stud backing out of a rear hub and the hole gets stripped.
check out the Square aluminimum parts found here...
http://www.rc-square.de/english/index.htm

these parts are made with exceptional quality and i know they have aluminium uprights, c-hubs etc for the TRF range of vehicles...
wouldnt worry about ordering from him either, everything arrives

-Mark
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:02 PM
  #3992  
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Originally Posted by mok
check out the Square aluminimum parts found here...
http://www.rc-square.de/english/index.htm

these parts are made with exceptional quality and i know they have aluminium uprights, c-hubs etc for the TRF range of vehicles...
wouldnt worry about ordering from him either, everything arrives

-Mark
Mark,

thanks for the link. but unforunately i keep all my Tamiya cars in TCS trim. both the 416 and TB-03 only get tamiya hopups that way i know im always legal for TCS racing.

- Chris
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:53 PM
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Well....I got my car already. My buddy took care of me and I will will be running the 415MRE. Looks like my TRF career will begin on carpet when I race next. I'm no crip but I'm sportin' blue....
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant
thats pretty cool but very light . It would be much better if it weighes like 4 oz. and its pricy.
Agree on the weight, my PPD is 3oz (whatever an oz is), so I plan on putting a 2.2oz lipo lead in the bitty design tray when it arrives
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:59 PM
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oz. is an ounce man. or 28 grams
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by StickyFingaz
Fo sho. HELLA dialed...

I gotta admit though, I like the car better w/ the Sorexes.

Question for everyone else: Where can I buy a new style lower deck?!? You think the new batt position will really make a difference if I'm running Li-Po? I'm strapping weight everywhere on the car anyway...
Cheda bob makes a nice tray for a 416 .. tell him I sent you and he will charge you more . jk it weights almost 4 ounces and fits perfectly in the car . let alone puts the weight where u want it. LOW
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:24 PM
  #3997  
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I shoo goo the individual weights from PPD to the bottom of my packs. It locks them in place so they don't move, gets some weight down low, and they're easy to remove when you're done. Then I servo tape some tungsten plates to the outside top and side edges of the pack, and sometimes a couple on the inside. They're 14g each, so it ads up quick. If you cover them in CF stickers, they look pretty dialed. I'm right at 1500g with weights one the pack only, and nowhere else. Balance is good since the weights are on the far edge of the pack.

This method lets the pack sit flat on the chassis, so you can use the 5000 packs like those from SMC and TP.

The guy that makes the Manutech plates is a fellow racer, and might be encouraged to make some 416 plates if there's a demand. They're brass, but work great if you've got a shorter pack, like an SMC 4000. The new packs have reliefs cut in them to let packs with nubs on the bottom sit flat.
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:37 PM
  #3998  
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I actually have this in mind but not sure that it really helps...i have a grub screw in the other hole in the rear hub which i thought would prevent the hole that you mount from collapsing and shearing under large impact. This is just a thought which i used to do it for my 2WD buggy and I have been running my current rear hubs for almost a year now and still ok...touchwood!

Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I've made a modification to the hub that is an easy fix and makes it WAY stronger. Just take a 2.5mm drill bit and drill through the hole where the ballstud mounts on the hub so that it can thread in as far as it needs. This way you don't have to go to the short stud, or cut down the long one.
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
Well....I got my car already. My buddy took care of me and I will will be running the 415MRE. Looks like my TRF career will begin on carpet when I race next. I'm no crip but I'm sportin' blue....
Dang, that was quick!

Let us know how it goes
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Old 01-15-2009, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
Dang, that was quick!

Let us know how it goes
He made me a deal that I couldn't pass up. Basically he made my mind up for me
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Old 01-15-2009, 12:36 AM
  #4001  
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A friend of mine got a 416WE, on the very first drive he broke the front plastic drive cup from the stock solid diff without hitting anything. Does tamiya or any other company has an upgrade for this? At the moment he's opted to get a normal diff up front which has aluminium drive cup.
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Old 01-15-2009, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam?
This method lets the pack sit flat on the chassis, so you can use the 5000 packs like those from SMC and TP
The new SMC C-Max 5200 pack will still be too tall

Originally Posted by dameetz
A friend of mine got a 416WE, on the very first drive he broke the front plastic drive cup from the stock solid diff without hitting anything. Does tamiya or any other company has an upgrade for this? At the moment he's opted to get a normal diff up front which has aluminium drive cup.
I'd say he put the eccentric spacers in upside down
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Old 01-15-2009, 03:34 AM
  #4003  
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Originally Posted by Adam?
I shoo goo the individual weights from PPD to the bottom of my packs. It locks them in place so they don't move, gets some weight down low, and they're easy to remove when you're done.
Adam,
how do you remove the shoo goo? What solvent you use or u just yank them out?
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Old 01-15-2009, 03:48 AM
  #4004  
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Originally Posted by CraigM
I'd say he put the eccentric spacers in upside down
yup, been there too
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Old 01-15-2009, 03:59 AM
  #4005  
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I just wondering if anybody can tell me is there any front differential part for TRF 416? What is the part number for it? Thanks
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