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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 01-14-2009, 02:00 PM
  #3976  
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Originally Posted by Hebiki
i wish tamiya would release alum. rear hubs. thats my biggest problem is the ball stud backing out of a rear hub and the hole gets stripped.
I switched to the H0 415 hubs to fix this (wanted to stay TCS Legal) until 416 ones are released.

Jimmy
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Old 01-14-2009, 02:27 PM
  #3977  
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Originally Posted by Hebiki
i wish tamiya would release alum. rear hubs. thats my biggest problem is the ball stud backing out of a rear hub and the hole gets stripped.
As we all know the 416 and TB03 use the same hubs so....
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54137

Enjoy!
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Old 01-14-2009, 02:29 PM
  #3978  
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Originally Posted by CarKing
As we all know the 416 and TB03 use the same hubs so....
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54137

Enjoy!
throw a set of those in my box too? Pretty please.
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Old 01-14-2009, 02:42 PM
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Awe buck Fram! I can't believe my li-pos can't plug in. The fram upper deck is in the way front and back, Not fair man... not fair! tamiya should have made an even better one so I could plug in my batteries, SHEESH
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Old 01-14-2009, 02:44 PM
  #3980  
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Originally Posted by CarKing
As we all know the 416 and TB03 use the same hubs so....
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Enjoy!
These uprights for 9mm bearings.
I`m using on my 416WE front and rear uprights from X-ray T2 series. I`m enlarged holes in rear lower arms from 2.6mm to 3mm for X-ray uprights compatibility.
C`est la vie...
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Old 01-14-2009, 03:00 PM
  #3981  
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TAM53969 = Steel 5x8 ball heads
TAM53968 = Steel 5x5 ball heads

You guys probably know about those already, but in case you don't... They're a lot tougher than their aluminum counterparts, and even seem more so than the long setscrew/ballhead trick.
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Old 01-14-2009, 03:14 PM
  #3982  
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Originally Posted by Hebiki
i wish tamiya would release alum. rear hubs. thats my biggest problem is the ball stud backing out of a rear hub and the hole gets stripped.
I've made a modification to the hub that is an easy fix and makes it WAY stronger. Just take a 2.5mm drill bit and drill through the hole where the ballstud mounts on the hub so that it can thread in as far as it needs. This way you don't have to go to the short stud, or cut down the long one.
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Old 01-14-2009, 03:16 PM
  #3983  
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant
Awe buck Fram! I can't believe my li-pos can't plug in. The fram upper deck is in the way front and back, Not fair man... not fair! tamiya should have made an even better one so I could plug in my batteries, SHEESH
Just work with it a little bit, my LiPo's plug in under the top deck but with a little work on the plug I was able to make it nearly flush with the top of the battery so that it fits fine.
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Old 01-14-2009, 03:17 PM
  #3984  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
You guys are frickin' awesome. If I get this car and don't win at least one club race....it won't be because of lack of info
That's why I went with the 416. I came in here, asked a few questions, and all the guns that know their stuff back to front came out and answered them straight away. I'm definitely faster than I would be otherwise thanks to this community

*shares love*

Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
So over all, how much stuff has broken? I mean, thats it. Or have you broken casters, and knuckles here and there?

Sounds pretty good! Haha, So pulling the ball stud out of the hub sounds like a problem with a few people?
Having run the car solidly for 6 months now on a track that's a bit of a car breaker, I've taken out a few more parts than some. C-hubs are the thing that broke most frequently, so like others on here I ditched the carbon filled ones and went with the bendy ones from the TA05-IFS. I haven't broken one since. I also broke one knuckle before going to the square alloy ones, but I'm going back to plastic now to see if they really do give more grip

As for the rear uprights, most people are running 3mm spacers under the outer ball screw so of course the 5mm screws are going to strip the plastic - hell I stripped the top 2mm of thread on my alloy uprights this way. Get some of the 8mm screws (or use the ones off the front inner camber link) and you're problems will be solved

Originally Posted by John St.Amant
Awe buck Fram! I can't believe my li-pos can't plug in. The fram upper deck is in the way front and back, Not fair man... not fair! tamiya should have made an even better one so I could plug in my batteries, SHEESH
Bummer! Pick yourself up a bitty design lipo tray

http://www.bittydesign.net/PortaLipoTAMIYA-TRF-ING.htm

The new SMC batteries are too high for the top deck so I've gotta chuck my PPD tray out for one of these too
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Old 01-14-2009, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigM
That's why I went with the 416. I came in here, asked a few questions, and all the guns that know their stuff back to front came out and answered them straight away. I'm definitely faster than I would be otherwise thanks to this community

*shares love*


Having run the car solidly for 6 months now on a track that's a bit of a car breaker, I've taken out a few more parts than some. C-hubs are the thing that broke most frequently, so like others on here I ditched the carbon filled ones and went with the bendy ones from the TA05-IFS. I haven't broken one since. I also broke one knuckle before going to the square alloy ones, but I'm going back to plastic now to see if they really do give more grip

As for the rear uprights, most people are running 3mm spacers under the outer ball screw so of course the 5mm screws are going to strip the plastic - hell I stripped the top 2mm of thread on my alloy uprights this way. Get some of the 8mm screws (or use the ones off the front inner camber link) and you're problems will be solved


Bummer! Pick yourself up a bitty design lipo tray

http://www.bittydesign.net/PortaLipoTAMIYA-TRF-ING.htm

The new SMC batteries are too high for the top deck so I've gotta chuck my PPD tray out for one of these too
thats pretty cool but very light . It would be much better if it weighes like 4 oz. and its pricy.
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Old 01-14-2009, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant
Seems to have some different carbon fiber materials in the new chassis too..
It doesnt look anything like my old one.
TBH, the different look won't affect it means not much, as the plate are actually made up of uni fibres underneath. The outer woven plys are there to look pretty

By the sounds of it though, it's highly possibly Tam have changed supplies for their carbon plates, possibly going with a lower modulus carbon fibre and/or different internal lay-up.

HiH
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:02 PM
  #3987  
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Originally Posted by Hebiki
i wish tamiya would release alum. rear hubs. thats my biggest problem is the ball stud backing out of a rear hub and the hole gets stripped.
I ended up using the standard 5 mm ball connector with 2 mm spacers under the ball connector.
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:08 PM
  #3988  
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What LiPo? I've got the TP 40C's in mine, and made weight, no problem. The top deck does get a bit close to the balancing plug (I wish they'd put them out the same side as the power like SMC) but there's just enough clearance to bend it down, and tie it up with the tape that's holding the battery in. I put a little electrical tape on the top deck by those wires just in case it comes loose, I'd rather have them not grind and short out.

Unfortunately, getting batteries with internal plugs to fit can be hit or miss.

As for parts breakage, with the soft IFS hubs (which give a TON of steering), the only thing I break on occasion is knuckles. I could use aluminum ones I guess, but I don't mind if they break once in a great while, and the parts are pretty cheap. I don't have trouble with rear hubs anymore, I just went to the longer ball studs like someone else mentioned. Been on the same set for ages now.

DO get the steel CVD's up front. :-D

I sure wish someone made a super hard bumper for this car. Anybody?
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:58 PM
  #3989  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
Is this what you were running for our last battle at Norcal? Your car was a rocket.
Fo sho. HELLA dialed...

I gotta admit though, I like the car better w/ the Sorexes.

Question for everyone else: Where can I buy a new style lower deck?!? You think the new batt position will really make a difference if I'm running Li-Po? I'm strapping weight everywhere on the car anyway...
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by lyoha
These uprights for 9mm bearings.
I`m using on my 416WE front and rear uprights from X-ray T2 series. I`m enlarged holes in rear lower arms from 2.6mm to 3mm for X-ray uprights compatibility.
C`est la vie...
actually.. those rear hubs are for the bigger bearings (416, TB-03, etc)
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